[Sca-cooks] Medieval English lasagne?
Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius at verizon.net
Tue Jul 15 21:32:43 PDT 2003
Also sprach Daniel Myers:
>Just checked - no close matches in the Neapolitan Recipe Collection.
>Some references to lasagne, but no layered dishes of noodle and
>cheese.
Close match to what, and why the fixation on layers? It should be
noted that even now, not all lasagne dishes are layered. Some still
just toss the ingredients and let gravity do the layering.
Looking back on the English Hares in Papdele recipe, which has
Italian near-equivalents, it is not really clear that the dish is
intended to be layered, although loseyns are mentioned as one option
for the starchy substrate. Wafers are another; interesting that no
option like pappardele ["pieces of paper'] is mentioned, unless
that's covered by loseyns and by the dish name itself.
>How does the one from Libro di Coquino read?
It's translated in "The Medieval Kitchen" as follows:
"Of lasagne. To make lasagne take fermented dough and make it into
as thin a shape as possible. Then divide it into squares of three
fingerbreadths per side. Then take salted boiling water and cook
those lasagne in it. And when they are fully cooked, add grated
cheese.
And, if you like, you can also add good powdered spices and
powder them on them, when they are on the trencher. Then put a layer
of lasagne and powder [spices] again; and on top another layer and
powder, and continue until the trencher or bowl is full. Then eat
them by taking them up with a pointed wooden stick." [LC 412]
The mention of cutting the dough into squares three fingers wide,
roughly 2 - 2 1/2 inches, perhaps, suggests to me that losenges
(either the heraldic shape or maybe just a reference to
cross-hatching) are indicated by the name, and it is layered, just
not with ricotta, mozzarella, and meat ragu (nor with ragu bolognese
and vegetables balsamello). I guess what qualifies as lasagne depends
a great deal on people's preconceived notions.
So, I don't have the Neapolitan Recipe Collection here in front of me
(although it probably is within three feet of me; I just can't find
it). I'm pretty sure it has pasta recipes. What does it tell us about
lasagne?
Adamantius
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