[Sca-cooks] Re: lamb breast

Vincent Cuenca bootkiller at hotmail.com
Wed Jul 16 09:51:15 PDT 2003


>You simmer your whole breast of veal/lamb in stock until very tender,
>but not falling apart; the object is to able to pick out the bones
>easily without tearing the meat. Lay the meat flat on a board and
>press under another board, weighted, chilling until you have a firm,
>cold, boneless steaklike entity.
>
>You then cut this into cutlet shapes, or rounds or squares. Some
>recipes have you layer these with similar slices of ham, IIRC. Dip in
>flour, egg, and bread crumbs, then saute or grill until brown and
>crispy. Serve surrounded by vegetables and with a sauce made by
>reducing the clarified braising stock to a demi-glaze.

My wife would kill me if I tried this one. :-)

In all seriousness, I'll probably try the indirect grilling thing, probably 
with some cherry wood for smoke.  These things are pretty big; they may be 
mutton or hogget rather than lamb.  Still pretty tasty.

Vicente



_____________________________________________________________________
If you get into a jam, you can always eat something, blow something up or 
throw penguins. --Jim Henson





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>Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: Medieval English lasagne? (Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius)
>    2. Re: Growing Herbs (Lord Boroghul Khara)
>    3. Medieval Italian recipes for Lasagna was Re: Medieval	English
>       Lasagna (Louise Smithson)
>    4. Re: Medieval Italian recipes for Lasagna was Re: Medieval
>       English Lasagna (jenne at fiedlerfamily.net)
>    5. Re: Medieval Italian recipes for Lasagna was Re:	Medieval
>       English Lasagna (Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius)
>    6. Re: lasagna (MILADYMANN at aol.com)
>    7. Re: Medieval English lasagne? (Decker, Terry D.)
>    8. Re: Medieval English lasagne? (Daniel Myers)
>    9. FW: paprika and spikenard (Harris Mark.S-rsve60)
>   10. lamb breast (Vincent Cuenca)
>   11. Re: lamb breast (Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius)
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Message: 1
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 00:32:43 -0400
>From: "Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius at verizon.net>
>Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Medieval English lasagne?
>To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
>Message-ID: <a05210600bb3a81a025c8@[192.168.0.2]>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
>Also sprach Daniel Myers:
> >Just checked - no close matches in the Neapolitan Recipe Collection.
> >Some references to lasagne, but no layered dishes of noodle and
> >cheese.
>
>Close match to what, and why the fixation on layers? It should be
>noted that even now, not all lasagne dishes are layered. Some still
>just toss the ingredients and let gravity do the layering.
>
>Looking back on the English Hares in Papdele recipe, which has
>Italian near-equivalents, it is not really clear that the dish is
>intended to be layered, although loseyns are mentioned as one option
>for the starchy substrate. Wafers are another; interesting that no
>option like pappardele ["pieces of paper'] is mentioned, unless
>that's covered by loseyns and by the dish name itself.
>
> >How does the one from Libro di Coquino read?
>
>It's translated in "The Medieval Kitchen" as follows:
>
>"Of lasagne.	To make lasagne take fermented dough and make it into
>as thin a shape as possible. Then divide it into squares of three
>fingerbreadths per side. Then take salted boiling water and cook
>those lasagne in it. And when they are fully cooked, add grated
>cheese.
>	And, if you like, you can also add good powdered spices and
>powder them on them, when they are on the trencher. Then put a layer
>of lasagne and powder [spices] again; and on top another layer and
>powder, and continue until the trencher or bowl is full. Then eat
>them by taking them up with a pointed wooden stick." [LC 412]
>
>The mention of cutting the dough into squares three fingers wide,
>roughly 2 - 2 1/2 inches, perhaps, suggests to me that losenges
>(either the heraldic shape or maybe just a reference to
>cross-hatching) are indicated by the name, and it is layered, just
>not with ricotta, mozzarella, and meat ragu (nor with ragu bolognese
>and vegetables balsamello). I guess what qualifies as lasagne depends
>a great deal on people's preconceived notions.
>
>So, I don't have the Neapolitan Recipe Collection here in front of me
>(although it probably is within three feet of me; I just can't find
>it). I'm pretty sure it has pasta recipes. What does it tell us about
>lasagne?
>
>Adamantius
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 2
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 06:12:07 -0400
>From: Lord Boroghul Khara <boroghul at narn.pecan-tree.com>
>Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Growing Herbs
>To: "sca-cooks at ansteorra.org" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
>Message-ID: <BB3A9D37.1223A%boroghul at narn.pecan-tree.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>On 7/16/03 12:02 AM, "jenne at fiedlerfamily.net" <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net>
>wrote:
>
> >> Use sweet woodruff sparingly; it contains coumarin, if I remember 
>right,
> >> which is a carcinogen.
> >
> > Ah, but it makes an excellent strewing herb (and is good in potpourris 
>and
> > sachets if you do them...)
> >
>And wonderful in May Wine...  Which reminds me... I need to make another
>pilgrimage to the St. Julian Winery in Michigan.
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 3
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 05:53:53 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Louise Smithson <helewyse at yahoo.com>
>Subject: [Sca-cooks] Medieval Italian recipes for Lasagna was Re:
>	Medieval	English Lasagna
>To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
>Message-ID: <20030716125353.78427.qmail at web20807.mail.yahoo.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>And what is lasagne (to most of the modern world this
>means lasagne bolognese or some close variant thereof)
>made of? I mean, apart from the tomato ragout? Largely
>flat pasta and cheese, no?
>
>OK had to weigh in on this one.  The earliest Italian
>MS on cooking seem to come from the 14th/15th century
>with very little accurate dating other than that.
>Here are the earliest examples I could find in my
>collections (newly expanded by some ILL).
>
>De le lasagne
>Togli farina bona, bianca; distempera con acqua
>tepida, e fa che sia spessa: poi la stendi
>sottilmente, e lassa sciugare: debbiansi cocere nel
>brodo del cappone, o d'altra carne grassa: poi metti
>nel piattello col cascio grasso grattato, a suolo a
>suolo, come ti piace.
>
>Of the lasagna
>Take good white flour, temper with tepid water and
>make it that it is dense/thich: then stretch it thin,
>and let it dry: one has to cook it in capon broth or
>other fat meat broth: then put it in the plate with
>grated cheese, layer on layer, as you please.
>
>Il Libro della cucina, del sec XIV, Bologna  Presso
>Gaetano Romagnoli 1863.  From MS  N 143 University of
>Bologna.
>
>Chi vole fare alesagne, tolla bona farina bianca et
>falla bollire in brodo de capuni.  Se non fosse tanta,
>mictice de altra acqua, et mectace del sale a bollire
>con essa, et tragala in uno catino, et mectano del
>cascio assay, et burla sopra il tagliaturi del grasso
>del capone.
>
>If you want to make lasagna, take good white flour and
>let them boil in capon broth.  If perhaps you don't
>have enough add more water and add salt to boil with
>these, and take out and put in a bowl/dish, and add
>enough cheese and butter above and chopped capon fat.
>
>Anchi se possono fare lesagne in pavese.  Tolale  et
>facale cocere che non sciano troppo cocte, et tragale
>del vaso, et lavale ad dui acque frede, ad cio ch'el
>siano desillo metereace spetie et caffarano, et poy se
>volionu frigere.
>
>Also one can make lasagna of Pavia. Take them and put
>them to cook so that they are not too much cooked, and
>pull from the pan, and wash twice in cold water and so
>that they are (of yellow ?? dubious trans) add spices
>and saffron, and then you want to fry them.
>
>Bostrom Ingemar, ed. Anonimo Meridionale, Due Libri di
>Cucina.  Acta Universitatis, Romanica Stockholmiensia,
>11. Stoclholm.  Almqvist & Wiksell 1985.  Libro B
>dated to the first half of the 15th Century.
>
>Couldn't find any lasagna made from pasta in the
>Maestro Martino collection.  Claudio Benporat.  Cucina
>Italiana del Quattrocento.  Biblioteca dell Archivum
>romanicum Seri I.  Storie Letterature, Paleografia 272
>(this is 14th Century
>Per fare lasagne di pelle di capone
>Togli la pelle del cappone cotto e tagliala inpezuoli
>e ponila in brodo di capone grasso e fallo bollire per
>ispatio di meza hora con uno pocho di zaffarano dipoi
>fa le minestre con un pocho di caso di sopra e con
>spetie.
>
>To make lasagne of capon skin.
>Take the skin of cooked capons and cut into pieces and
>put in fat capon broth and let it boil for the space
>of half an hour with a little bit of saffron then make
>the dish with a little bit of cheese above and with
>spices.
>
>Last one, something with nuts not cheese.
>
>XXXVIII. Lasagne.
>Se tu voy fare lansagne de quaressima, toy le lasagne
>e mitile a coxere, e toli noxe monde e ben pesta e
>maxenate, e miti entro le lasagne, e guardale dal
>fumo; e quando vano a tavola, menestra e polverizage
>de le specie, del zucharo.
>
>XXXVIII. Lasagne.
>If you want to make lasagne in lent, take the lasagne
>and put it to cook, and take walnuts peeled and well
>beaten and ground, and put into the lasagne, and guard
>from smoke, and when it goes to the table, serve and
>powder with the spices and sugar.
>
>Translation of Libro di cucina/ Libro per cuoco
>(14th/15th c.)  (Anonimo Veneziano)
>
>In conclusion, yup the italians had lasagna.  Lots of
>variants too.
>
>Helewyse de Birkestad.
>
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>Do you Yahoo!?
>SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
>http://sbc.yahoo.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 4
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 09:07:09 -0400 (EDT)
>From: <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net>
>Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Medieval Italian recipes for Lasagna was Re:
>	Medieval	English Lasagna
>To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
>Message-ID:
>	<Pine.LNX.4.33.0307160905250.24965-100000 at fiedlerfamily.net>
>Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
>
> > OK had to weigh in on this one.  The earliest Italian
> > MS on cooking seem to come from the 14th/15th century
> > with very little accurate dating other than that.
> > Here are the earliest examples I could find in my
> > collections (newly expanded by some ILL).
>
>[snip]
>
> > In conclusion, yup the italians had lasagna.  Lots of
> > variants too.
>
>Hmmm... so we don't have any dating of lasagna in an italian manuscript
>before 1390? Or do we?
>
>-- Pani Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, Knowledge Pika   jenne at fiedlerfamily.net
>"Freedome is expensive, dangerous, unpredictable, and sometimes ugly
>and offensive. At such a high price, no wonder it is sweet."
>-- John N. Barry, _Library Journal_, January 1992
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 5
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 09:36:49 -0400
>From: "Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius at verizon.net>
>Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Medieval Italian recipes for Lasagna was Re:
>	Medieval 	English Lasagna
>To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
>Message-ID: <a05210601bb3b03919a23@[192.168.0.2]>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
>Also sprach <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net>:
> >Hmmm... so we don't have any dating of lasagna in an italian manuscript
> >before 1390? Or do we?
>
>It's a little unclear, but we do have a claim that Italian recipes go
>back at least to the 14th century, of which most is before 1390. It
>seems more likely, statistically, that if there's a 14th-century
>recipe, it's from before 1390, rather than in the ensuing eleven
>years.
>
>Of course, that's not intended as anything but speculation.
>
>Regardless, it would seem to refute both English claims of having
>developed lasagne significantly before the Italians, and Italian
>claims that what the English developed (or acquired) was not actually
>lasagne. Whatever it was or was not, it appears to be nearly
>identical to what the Italians were making at the same time and
>calling lasagne.
>
>In short, _everybody_ concerned just flunked history class.
>
>Adamantius
>
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 6
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 09:44:58 EDT
>From: MILADYMANN at aol.com
>Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: lasagna
>To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
>Message-ID: <1d4.dfcbb1f.2c46b0da at aol.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
>
>As a chronic lurker because I enjoy reading about medieval recipes, it was
>interesting to hear this on MSNBC this morning.  I knew I'd get the full 
>and
>accurate details here!
>With admiration for SCA cooks and scholars.
>
>Aolin Kendall
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 7
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 09:08:36 -0500
>From: "Decker, Terry D." <TerryD at Health.State.OK.US>
>Subject: [Sca-cooks] Re: Medieval English lasagne?
>To: "'sca-cooks at ansteorra.org'" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
>Message-ID:
>	<E163A98BC3D0D2119CAA0000832180C20C4B464C at exchange6.health.state.ok.us>
>
>
>Curiosity got me looking for Prof. David Cromptom.  The best known one is 
>at
>Glasgow and is noted for parasitology and a few other things, so I doubt
>that's him.  The best fit seems to be an English Prof.
>
>I did find the website for the Berkley Castle gig:
>
>http://www.joust.info/
>
>It seems to be the stock RenFair with a Living History section staffed by
>serious recreationists.  Funniest thing, it is associated with the Florida
>Renaissance Fair.
>
>Bear
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 8
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 10:20:43 -0400
>From: Daniel Myers <doc at medievalcookery.com>
>Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Medieval English lasagne?
>To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
>Message-ID: <AF6D8E3F-B798-11D7-B5CC-00039363C2B4 at medievalcookery.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
>
>
>On Wednesday, July 16, 2003, at 12:32 AM, Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus
>Adamantius wrote:
>
> > Also sprach Daniel Myers:
> >> Just checked - no close matches in the Neapolitan Recipe Collection.
> >> Some references to lasagne, but no layered dishes of noodle and
> >> cheese.
> >
> > Close match to what, and why the fixation on layers? It should be
> > noted that even now, not all lasagne dishes are layered. Some still
> > just toss the ingredients and let gravity do the layering.
>
>Most people in the US (and in the UK?) expect "Lasagne" to be a layered
>dish.  I was looking for something that was similar to the layered
>noodle and cheese dish described in the article (which referred to FoC).
>
>[...]
>
> > So, I don't have the Neapolitan Recipe Collection here in front of me
> > (although it probably is within three feet of me; I just can't find
> > it). I'm pretty sure it has pasta recipes. What does it tell us about
> > lasagne?
>
>Let's see...
>
>Using Scully's translations:
>
>16. Roman Macaroni.  Finger-width noodles, boiled in broth, served with
>butter.  Makes reference to lasagne - "Out of fine flour make a dough
>that is a little larger than for lasagne...."
>
>17.  Vermicelli.  The expected type of noodles colored with saffron and
>garnished with Parmesan cheese.
>
>128.  Squash Torte.  Sounds like a squash & cheese dessert pie, near
>the end of the recipe says to "put small lasagne on top" part way
>through baking.
>
>130.  Spelte Torte.  Similar recipe to #128 above, with spelte instead
>of squash.
>
>132.  A Sienese-style Tartara.  Sort of a custard with ground almonds
>and cheese.  Suggests that you can add "a ladleful of lasagne cooked in
>good broth".
>
>158.  Eggs in the Shape of Ravioli.  Ravioli with eggs as a filling.
>The recipe starts, "Make a dough as for lasagne..."
>
>159.  Offelle.  A sort of raisin-cheese ravioli.  Calls for "a thin
>pastry dough as for lasagne".
>
>181.  Rice Torte.  A rice and almond dish.  Says to make "a lower and
>an upper crust for it with broad, thin lasagne."
>
>
>So what it really comes down to is how you define the word.  If one is
>using the term "lasagne" to indicate the shape of the noodle, then yes
>any and all of the above recipes would be a match, but if "lasagne" is
>understood (as most Americans would) as a sort of casserole with layers
>of wide flat noodles and other fillings (usually including cheese) then
>none of these are a very good match.
>
>- Doc
>
>
>--
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
>   Edouard Halidai  (Daniel Myers)
>   http://www.medievalcookery.com/
>-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 9
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 07:44:55 -0700
>From: "Harris Mark.S-rsve60" <Mark.s.Harris at motorola.com>
>Subject: [Sca-cooks] FW: paprika and spikenard
>To: "SCA-Cooks maillist (E-mail)" <SCA-Cooks at ansteorra.org>
>Message-ID:
>	<D7FC56F953EDD51199FE00D0B782DCCD0773C955 at az33exm31.corp.mot.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="ISO-8859-1"
>
>I just received this by email and thought some of you might be interested 
>as we have discussed both of these items here before.
>
>I am in fact honored to have gotten this email, for if my guess is correct, 
>this is the same Charles Perry and his book which have been previously 
>mentioned on this list.
>
>Perhaps some of you studying eastern Europe or the Balkans might want to 
>check out this thesis. Bear?
>
>Stefan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Perry, Charles [mailto:Charles.Perry at latimes.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2003 5:54 PM
>To: Mark.S Harris
>Subject: paprika and spikenard
>
>	I just came across a collection of historical spice threads collected by 
>you. I had two observations to contribute, didn't know where else to send 
>them.
>	Paprika: -ika is a Slavic suffix used on plant names; paprika means 
>"pepper plant." It was not introduced to Hungary by the Turks but by 
>Croatian merchants from Ragusa (now Dubrovnik). There is a thesis on file 
>at UCLA on this subject, complete with maps of the spice routes through the 
>Balkans.
>	Spikenard: It has a musky, resinous scent, and its commonest use 
>throughout history has been as a hair tonic or perfume (it is still 
>probably used for that purpose -- I suspect its presence in Vitalis), but 
>occasionally it has flavored foods and beverages. My translation of the 
>14th-century Arabic cookbook "Kitab Wasf al-At'ima al-Mu'tada" (in 
>"Medieval Arab Cookery," Prospect Books, 2001) gives some recipes that call 
>for it. At present, spikenard is available at markets that sell Iranian 
>food products. It comes in little cellophane packages -- looking like a 
>tangle of brown wires -- under the name "valerian." In Perso-Arab script, 
>however, the packages call it by its Arabic name, "sunbul al-tib," 
>"fragrant spikenard."
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 10
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 15:28:02 +0000
>From: "Vincent Cuenca" <bootkiller at hotmail.com>
>Subject: [Sca-cooks] lamb breast
>To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
>Message-ID: <Sea2-F5txxLI9jtcEko00004e25 at hotmail.com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed
>
>
>The local independent grocery store is selling lamb breasts at a
>ridiculously low price ($0.99 per pound!!!)  Now, I love lamb, but I've
>never really dealt with this part of the critter before. I've seen recipes
>for stuffed lamb breast; how do I carve and seve it?  How many people can a
>reasonably-sized lamb breast serve?  Should I just barbecue the darn thing
>like pork spareribs?
>
>Anybody got any favorite recipes?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Vicente
>
>
>______________________________________________________________________
>If you get into a jam, you can always eat something, blow something up or
>throw penguins. --Jim Henson
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>The new MSN 8: advanced junk mail protection and 2 months FREE*
>http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail
>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Message: 11
>Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2003 12:21:06 -0400
>From: "Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius" <adamantius at verizon.net>
>Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] lamb breast
>To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
>Message-ID: <a05210601bb3b26b0d574@[192.168.0.2]>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
>Also sprach Vincent Cuenca:
> >The local independent grocery store is selling lamb breasts at a
> >ridiculously low price ($0.99 per pound!!!)  Now, I love lamb, but
> >I've never really dealt with this part of the critter before. I've
> >seen recipes for stuffed lamb breast; how do I carve and seve it?
> >How many people can a reasonably-sized lamb breast serve?  Should I
> >just barbecue the darn thing like pork spareribs?
> >
> >Anybody got any favorite recipes?
>
>Depends if you're eating them or just admiring the recipes ;-).
>
>Many people used to use lamb breast for Irish Stew, which doesn't
>seem like something you'd want to do in a Midwestern summer.
>
>What I actually _would_ do with them is marinate them in red wine
>with lots of flattened garlic cloves, thyme and/or rosemary, S&P, and
>barbecue them like pork spare ribs, either on a grill or by actual
>barbecuing. In this case I'd think about charcoal grilling.
>
>My favorite recipe, though, would definitely be for epigrammes of
>lamb. (Originally done with veal breast, but amply supported as a
>lamb dish of the same cut.) It seems a prominent hostess (stories
>vary as to when and where; mid-18th-century Paris is usually named)
>was told of a dinner party a friend had attended the night before, at
>which the epigrams were plentiful and exceptional. Upon hearing this,
>the hostess instructed her own cook, who was preparing for a large
>dinner that evening, to prepare a dish of epigrammes. So he did.
>
>There are several variants on the basic recipe, and I won't quote one
>here, but I'll describe the basic dish:
>

>
>The hostess, meanwhile, had completely forgotten her instructions to
>her chef, and the dish was a great success. The chef was sent for,
>and asked about the dish, which he pronounced to be epigrammes of
>veal. The hostess, evidently in Margaret Dumont mode, did not see the
>humor of it.
>
>James Beard seems to feel you need a pound of lamb or veal breast, or
>spare ribs, per adult to make such a meat worthwhile, as there is a
>lot of waste to bones, fat, and connective tissue. (He's speaking
>generically of the cut, of course, not of epigrammes.) He's probably
>right, but I suspect it makes a difference what else is served.
>
>Adamantius
>
>
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>
>End of Sca-cooks Digest, Vol 2, Issue 53
>****************************************

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