[Sca-cooks] OOP? Raw meat...
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius.magister at verizon.net
Thu Feb 12 08:30:01 PST 2004
Hullo, the list!
I can see how magnificent my timing is, with all the mad cow
discussion, but I happened to be reading Hammett's "The Thin Man",
and there was a reference in it that got me thinking...
For those who've never read this or seen the movie, it's about a
wealthy married couple, the male half of which has retired from his
job as an agency detective (something like a Pinkerton agent, I
guess), to manage his wife's railroad and mining interests. He's more
or less forced by circumstances to investigate several murders, and
also seems intent on drinking himself to death along the way, but
then this was published the year Prohibition ended, so maybe that's
not so surprising.
Anyway, at one point Nick and Nora Charles are a bit peckish late at
night when their hotel kitchen is closed, and telephone an all-night
delicatessen for sandwiches and coffee. Nora orders a chopped raw
beef sandwich with lots of onion. (I _think_ the line appears in the
movie, too.)
Now, for those of us who have never eaten steak tartare, and who have
nightmares about sashimi and erroneously refer to it as sushi, this
might come as a bit of a shock, but perhaps to food-types like us,
more especially because, as far as I know, there's not a huge
well-known tradition of eating raw meat, except for things like...
let's see... you got yer steak tartare, you got carpaccio (invented
by an American in Europe in the 20th century), you've got Korean and
Japanese versions of beef sashimi, raw kibbe (lamb) in places like
Lebanon, various tales of hunters eating deer and boar livers raw, in
thin slices on bread, and one raw beef recipe that seems pretty close
to steak tartare, but named differently, on the menu of Luchow's
German restaurant in 1950's New York. I think Ethiopians have been
known to eat raw beef.
As far as I know, that's pretty much it, but the Raw Beef Lucullus at
Luchow's (pronounced "LOO-khov's", BTW) is probably the closest to
the tradition of Nora Charles' 1933 raw beef sandwich. And if Hammett
is to be believed, this is something you could get at a New York City
deli (back when delicatessens were primarily German gourmet-food
shops, I suspect) at 3AM. I've also heard of people (admittedly,
mostly of German ancestry) speaking of eating raw, chopped meat
(often pork, too!).
So the question now becomes, how much of a tradition in the Western
World, outside of the wealthy eating Steak Tartare at The Four
Seasons or some such, existed? Does anybody remember a parent or
grandparent, possibly one who would sneer at fancy presentations with
egg yolks and capers, grossing out the kids by eating raw meat on rye
with maybe a few pickles?
I'm just wondering if perhaps this kind of thing was more widespread
fifty years ago than we'd like to believe now, or have been told.
Comments? Info?
Adamantius
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