[Sca-cooks] P: Candied Lemon Peels--- long reply

[Johnna Holloway]

In answer to Jadwiga's request-- for candied lemon recipes---

These are some early recipes and references for preserving, candying, 
and working
with citrus fruits from my book on oranges and citrus fruits. These recipes
mention lemons---

Hope these help---

Johnnae llyn Lewis
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To make Succade of  Peels of Oranges and Lemons. Chapter. xxxii. 

Fyrste take offe your Peeles by quarters and seeth them in fair water,

from .iii. [three] quartes to .iii. [three] pynts, then take them out, and put to as

much more water, and seethe them lykewise, and so doe agayne, till the water

wherin they are sodden have no bitternesse at all of the peeles, then

are they ready. Now prepare a Syrop  as ye doe for quinces condict in Syrop in y 

[the] .xiiii. chapter before written: seeth them in the Syrope a while, a keep them in a Glasse or Pot.

John Partridge. The Treasurie of Commodious Conceits, & Hidden Secrets, 

and may be called, The huswiues closet, of healthfull prouision, 1573.

 The relevant section of the earlier recipe that Partridge refers to is found in Chapter xiiii.

 It reads:  “& put into the liquor being .ii. [2] or .iii. [3]quartes .i. [one]  pynte of Rosewater,  & for every quart also of liquor one half pound of suger, seethe them againe together on a soft fire of coles tyl [the] suger be incorporated with the liquor, then put in your Quinces, let them seeth softly tyil you perceaue that your Syrope is as thick as liue hony, the[n] let them to keel, and take them out, lai them in a tray or treene platter : tyl they be cold…. “. 

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      To preserve Orenges, Lemmons, and Pomecitrons.

First shave your Orenges finely, and put them into water two dayes and 
two nights,
changing your water three times a day then perboyle them in three 
severall waters,
then take so much water as you think convenient for the quantity of your 
orenges
then put in for every pound of Orenges, one pound & a half of sugar into 
the water,
and put in two whites of Egs & beat them altogither, then set them on the
fire in a brasse vessel, and when they boile, scum them very clean, and 
cleane
them through a Jellye bag then set it on the fire & put in the oranges.
Use walnuts in like manner and use Lemmons & Pomecitrons in like sort,
but they must lye in water but one night.

A. W. A Book of Cookerye With the Serving in of the Table. 1591. p. 36r.
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I won't repeat the Dawson recipes on citrus fruits as they are very long 
and Countess Alys offered to send
her version to you offlist. They are: To preserve orenges. from The Good 
Huswifes Jewell. 1596 p. 37,37r, 38. ;

To Preserve Orenges from The Good Huswifes Jewell. 1596 p. 16r.;

A Goodlye Secret for to condite or confite Orenges, citrons, and all 
other fruites in Sirrop. from Second Part of The Good Hus-wiues Iewell. 
1597. p. 44-?]; To confite Orenge peeles which may be done at all times 
in the yeere, and chiefly in May, because then the saide peeles be 
greatest and thickest fromThe Second Part of The Good Hus-wiues Iewell. 
1597. pp. 42-43.;


      To preserue orrenges from The Second Part of The Good Hus-wiues
      Iewell. 1597. pp. 68-69.


      To preserue Orrenges, Lemmons, and Pomecitrons fromThe Second Part
      of The Good Hus-wiues Iewell. 1597. pp. 71.

To preserue pils of citrons or orenges. Chufe great pils of citrons or 
of oranges, or Assirian citrons cut in foure or six peeces: clease them 
from their inward skin and pippens, steepe them in cleare water for the 
space of nine daies,
changing the water the fifth day, when the nine daies are past,
put them againe in cleare water to steepe until they become sweete,
and have lost their bitternes and withal appeare cleare and transparent,
which is the signe of their sufficient watering: afterward boile
them in a vessel of brasse that is cleane, or in a leaden vessel so
long as till they be tender; when they have cast out all their
waterishnes (waterisfhnes), put them to steepe in a Iulep made
of one part sugar and three parts of water for the space of foure
and twenty houres, afterward make them to boile at a little fire
so much as is sufficient: take them out of the Iulep and put
them in a glasse vessel, and putting upon them the Iulep of rose
water thicke inouigh of consistence, that so it may afford them as
it were a crust: you may if you will romatize them with a little Amber 
and Muske.

Charles Estienne and Jean Liébault. Maison Rustique, or The Countrie 
Farme. 1600. p. 543.

Translated “into English by Richard Surflet practitioner in physicke,”
this is the first English translation of L'Agriculture et Maison Rustique.
The authors’ French names are Englished as “by Charles Steuens
and Iohn Liebault doctors of physicke”. It was originally published in 
France in 1564.
The recipes that are included in the book are embedded in the text.
The above “recipe” is actually one paragraph as found on page 543.
I have given it a title based on the initial words of the given paragraph.
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      35. To candy Orenge pills

Take your Orenge pilles after they be preserved,
then take fine Sugar and Rosewater, and boile it to the height of
Manus Christi, then drawe through your Sugar,
then lay them on the bottome of a sieve, and dry them in an oven after
you have drawne bread, and they will be candied.

Sir Hugh Plat. Delightes for Ladies. 1609. [number 35 in Fussell edition.]

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To make suckets.

Take curds, the paring of lemons, of oranges or pomecitrons,
or indeed any half ripe green fruit, and boil them till they be tender,
in sweet wort; then make a syrup in this sort: take three pound of sugar,
and the whites of four eggs, and a gallon of water; then swinge and
beat the water and the eggs together and then put in your sugar,
and set it on the fire, and let it have an easy fire, and so let it boil
six or seven walms, and then strain it through a cloth,
and let it seethe again till it fall from the spoon, and then put it 
into the rinds of fruits.

Gervase Markham. The English Housewife. 1615, 1631.[Michael R. Best 
edition.] p 120.

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To candy any root, fruit, or flower.

Dissolve sugar, or sugar-candy in rose-water, boil it to a height, put in
your roots, fruits, or flowers, the syrup being cold, then rest a little;
after take them out and boil the syrup the third time to a hardness,
putting in more sugar, but not rose-water: put in the roots, etc.,
the syrup being cold, and let them stand until they candy.

Gervase Markham. The English Housewife. 1615, 1631.[Michael R. Best 
edition.] pp. 120-121.

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Sucket-Candies. To Sucket-Candie greene Lemonds.

Wash this fruit with seething water, dry it & put it in a warme
Oven, the next day throw them in hot double refined Sugar,
boiled to a Candie height, boile them a walme or two, take them up,
and dry them in an Oven, the next day boxe them.

John Murrell. A Daily Exercise for Ladies and Gentlewomen. 1617. R 63.

To dry Fruits. To dry Orenges and Lemonds.

Raspe the skinnes of these fruits, cut them in halfes,
and take out the cores, lay the rindes presently in faire water
two or three dayes, to take away their bitternesses, then boile them
five or sixe times, in several waters for the same purpose,
and when they be tender take them up, and dry them in a faire
cloath; then cover them in clarified Sugar, and boile it leasurely
two houres, then take them off, and put them in an earthen Pipkin,
and let them so remaine foure or five dayes, or longer
the better, when you will dry them, set them on the fire
againe until they be through hot, drain them, and the whilest boile fresh
Sugar to a Candie height, then put them in, take them out, and
lay them on a basket-makers lattice, and dry them in a warme
Oven in one night, and they are ready.

John Murrell. A Daily Exercise for Ladies and Gentlewomen. 1617. R 95.

To sucket candy greene Lemons, a very cordial thing for the Stomake.

Take greene Lemons and preserve them in as much clarified
Sugar as will cover them, then take them out of the Sugar and
dry them in a cloath then lay them vpon a sheet of glasse,
and set them in a warme Ouen or stoue, sixe or seaven dayes,
then take as much double refined sugar as will cover them,
and boyle it to a candy height with as much Rose-water as
will desolve them, then throw on your dryed Lemons & turne
them with a spoone in the Sugar, then betweene hott and
cold put them up in Galley-pots or glasses and when
they be cold bind them close and keepe them all the yeere.

John Murrell. A Delightfull Daily Exercise for Ladies and Gentlewomen. 
1621. R34.


Other recipes include Michel le Nostredame’s original recipes translated 
by Knut Boesler in The Elixirs of Nostradamus. He includes a recipe for 
How to Preserve Lemon Peel or the inner part of the fruit.

which due to copyright I won't reproduce here. I think you have mentioned
that you own a copy of it anyway.

Various recipes such as: To Preserue orringes and Leamons. 2 versions;
To Preserue Leamons or Citrons; To make Paste of Orringes or Leamons.
may all be found in the A Booke of Sweetmeats which
comprises the second part of the volume published as Martha Washington’s 
Booke of Cookery as edited by Karen Hess.

Lastly, the section on lemons from A Book of Fruit & Flowers
from 1653 would seem an obvious source for recipes,
but as C. Anne Wilson notes in the 1984 Prospect Books
facsimile all the recipes are in fact pirated from Dawson and
the 1639 The Ladies Closet Opened. In any case volume offers recipes for

A Lemmon Sallet.; To Preserve Orenges or Lemmons;To make a past of Lemmons;

Johnnae llyn Lewis


jenne at fiedlerfamily.net wrote:

Ok, so I have about 35 lemon peels snipped 

I've helped other people with candying them in Sugar; 

but what sugar candying recipes from period do people recommend?