[Sca-cooks] Re: Larded Milk
Martha Oser
osermart at msu.edu
Wed Nov 3 10:18:12 PST 2004
Hmm, interesting... The recipes I have don't mention either lard or vinegar
or lemon juice. I was wondering how they got it to thicken.
The recipes I've been looking at are from "Libellus de arte coquinaria: An
Early Northern Cookery Book", edited and translated by Rudolf Grewe and
Constance Hieatt. Published in 2001 at the Arizona Center for Medieval and
Renaissance Studies.
This book is a compilation of 4 cooking texts that date (I think) to the
13th century - maybe 12th. Someone who knows the book better can correct
me.
The recipes are as follows:
From Manuscript Q
Recipe XVIII
One should take fresh milk, and add to it beaten eggs, and add pork meat cut
into dice, and add to it ground bark (cinnamon) and saffron, and let it boil
all together. Then take it up and let it cool, and cover it well while it
cools. Then let all the water that is therein strain off, and wring it in a
cloth so that all that is water runs off. Afterwards cut it in slices, and
place thin slivers on a gridiron, and broil it there. It is called "larded
milk."
From Manuscript W
Recipe XVIII
Next, one should take fresh milk, and add to it beaten eggs and bacon, cut
into small particles, and let it cook with crushed saffron. When it comes
to a boil, one should place it over the embers and cover the pot with a
bowl. Let the whey run out, and squeeze it through a towel. Slice the milk
thus and roast it on the grill; place reeds under it. It is called "Larded
Milk."
Both of these manuscripts then also give directions for taking the larded
milk and wrapping it in a dough made of flour, saffron and eggs and frying
it to make what's called "gilded milk."
So my newbie question then is am I missing some implied use of something
acidic in these recipes to make them congeal, or are the original cooks
simply relying on the thickening power of cooked eggs?
-Helena
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 10:50:29 -0500
> From: Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net>
> Subject: [Sca-cooks] larded milk recipe
> To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> Message-ID: <20041103155029.GA13297 at fiedlerfamily.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> 1 gal whole milk
> 6 small eggs (4 large eggs)
> 4 oz lard
> 2 cups vinegar or lemon juice
> 1 tsp salt (not in original recipe but recommended)
> cheese cloth
>
> Part I: Making the larded milk
> 1) gently boil the milk and lard, stir to avoid burning the
> milk
> 2) once the milk boils, take the milk off the heat
> 4) temper the eggs with the milk
> 5) add the tempered eggs to the boiled milk
> 6) whisk well to avoid 'scrambled eggs', 8-10 minutes
> 7) once the egg/milk is smooth, add the acid to curdle the
> milk
> 8) make sure that the milk has curdled, separate the curds
> from the whey by draining through the cheese cloth
> 9) press the liquid from to the curds so they become "as
> hard as a pigs liver'
> 10) form curds into a loaf
>
> Part II Frying and Serving
> a) cut the loaf into pieces as you like (cubes are nice) -
> the smaller the pieces the crispier they will be
> b) place a whole clove 'button' into each piece
> c) fry in oil until outside of the curd turns brown (about
> 1 minute per side)
> d) remove from oil, sprinkle with sugar and serve
>
>
> --
> -- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, Knowledge Pika jenne at fiedlerfamily.net
> "In the clearing stands a boxer, A fighter by his trade
> And he carries the reminders Of every blow that laid him down
> Or cut him till he cried out, In his anger and his shame,
> 'I am leaving, I am leaving' But the fighter still remains."
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 10:59:28 -0600
> From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Plat's titles was roast turkey
> To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> Message-ID: <000e01c4c1c6$7c234c70$d1ae4a0c at toshibauser>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Checking the source, according to Lorna Sass's bibliography in To the
> Queen's Taste, the title given is the Accomplisht Ladies Delight and is
> attributed to Plat. No date given. A small literary conundrum to unravel,
> perhaps?
>
> Bear
>
>
>> Sir Hugh Platt or Plat wrote The Jewell House of Art and Nature
>> and he wrote Delightes for Ladies, to Adorne Their Persons, Tables,
>> Closets, and Distillatories.
>>
>> He didn't write something called Accomplisht Ladys Delight.
>> Delightes for Ladies by the way is actually 1600 for the first edition,
>> so it does make it into
>> the cut-off year of 1600. We most often use the 1609 date because that's
> the
>> edition that is more readily available. It's also the one that was
>> reproduced on microfilm, it's on
>> EBBO and it's the edition the Fussells edited back in 1948.
>>
>> The Accomplish'd Lady's Delight is a real title from the 1670's. It's
>> most often accredited
>> to Hannah Woolley or Wooley. No author is actually credited on the title
>> page,
>> and there is some question about her actual authorship of it. Some
>> sources list her and others don't.
>>
>> Just playing librarian--
>>
>> Johnnae llyn Lewis
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:00:18 -0800
> From: Susan Fox-Davis <selene at earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] roast turkey
> To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> Message-ID: <41890EA2.8020401 at earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
>
>
> UlfR wrote:
>
>>Terry Decker <t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net> [2004.11.03] wrote:
>>
>>>>>bussard(sp?), was one of them I believe. And turkey is certainly
>>>>>
>>>>Bustard. You been reading too much Larry Niven ;-).
>>>>
>>>He can't be. He didn't capitalize bussard, as in Robert W. Bussard.
>>>
> Hey, even Niven needs a poorfreader sometimes!
>
>>>
>>
>>Bussard, the original fast food?
>>
> Zoooom!
>
> Selene
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 11:01:35 -0600
> From: "Terry Decker" <t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] roast turkey
> To: <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net>, "Cooks within the SCA"
> <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> Message-ID: <001b01c4c1c6$c7b48b40$d1ae4a0c at toshibauser>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I can assure you Martino's orange sauce for chicken goes well with turkey.
>
> Bear
>
>> Well, it could be fun to try and figure out how a cook of a given time
>> (in the school of Platina or de Nola, for instance) would deal with
>> these foods. But you'd really have to be familiar with the cooking
>> techniques and all the recipes in their corpus.
>>
>> -- Jadwiga, who just tried to do a similar thing with cooking Rus/Viking
>> foods with period recipes. :)
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 12:09:17 -0500
> From: "The Borg" <The_Borg1 at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] larded milk recipe
> To: <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net>, "Cooks within the SCA"
> <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> Message-ID: <001701c4c1c7$dc651040$6601a8c0 at Mine>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Just the name of this sounds really gross. Has anyone tried it? Can it be
> served cold?
>
>
> Elewyiss
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise" <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net>
> To: "Cooks within the SCA" <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 10:50 AM
> Subject: [Sca-cooks] larded milk recipe
>
>
>> 1 gal whole milk
>> 6 small eggs (4 large eggs)
>> 4 oz lard
>> 2 cups vinegar or lemon juice
>> 1 tsp salt (not in original recipe but recommended)
>> cheese cloth
>>
>> Part I: Making the larded milk
>> 1) gently boil the milk and lard, stir to avoid burning the
>> milk
>> 2) once the milk boils, take the milk off the heat
>> 4) temper the eggs with the milk
>> 5) add the tempered eggs to the boiled milk
>> 6) whisk well to avoid 'scrambled eggs', 8-10 minutes
>> 7) once the egg/milk is smooth, add the acid to curdle the
>> milk
>> 8) make sure that the milk has curdled, separate the curds
>> from the whey by draining through the cheese cloth
>> 9) press the liquid from to the curds so they become "as
>> hard as a pigs liver'
>> 10) form curds into a loaf
>>
>> Part II Frying and Serving
>> a) cut the loaf into pieces as you like (cubes are nice) -
>> the smaller the pieces the crispier they will be
>> b) place a whole clove 'button' into each piece
>> c) fry in oil until outside of the curd turns brown (about
>> 1 minute per side)
>> d) remove from oil, sprinkle with sugar and serve
>>
>>
>> --
>> -- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, Knowledge Pika jenne at fiedlerfamily.net
>> "In the clearing stands a boxer, A fighter by his trade
>> And he carries the reminders Of every blow that laid him down
>> Or cut him till he cried out, In his anger and his shame,
>> 'I am leaving, I am leaving' But the fighter still remains."
>> _______________________________________________
>> Sca-cooks mailing list
>> Sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
>> http://www.ansteorra.org/mailman/listinfo/sca-cooks
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 09:10:07 -0800
> From: Susan Fox-Davis <selene at earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] roast turkey
> To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> Message-ID: <418910EF.7050806 at earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
>
> William de Grandfort writes:
>
>>I absolutely agree with this. A one-off 'Fabulous Feast' using very late period ingredients or
>>period oddities, but incorporating them using commonly available and documentable techniques and
>>methods would be a real joy for the cook, and possibly the guests as well :)
>>
> I did something along this line once at Ivan & Anastacia's coronation
> feast. The last course of a late-period menu was Mexican Chocolate
> [beverage that is; yes, there was sugar in it but people did yummm it
> up!] and pop corn, served as Amazing New Products From The New World.
> The audience seemed to Get It!
>
> William says elsewhere:
>
>>When I am King, I shall make Roast Turkey the national dish of Caid,
>> and banish any who dare oppose me!!
>
> I'm safe enough. I'm the kind of wacky food freak who actually prepares
> Morton Thompson's Black Turkey, a fiendishly involved recipe that makes
> TEH KEWLEST TURKEY EVAH! <http://bertc.com/blackene.htm>
>
> Selene
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 12:14:50 -0500
> From: Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise <jenne at fiedlerfamily.net>
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] larded milk recipe
> To: The Borg <The_Borg1 at comcast.net>, Cooks within the SCA
> <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
> Message-ID: <20041103171450.GB15413 at fiedlerfamily.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
>> Just the name of this sounds really gross.
>
> Call it homemade cheese fried, then. *shrug*
>
>>Has anyone tried it? Can it be
>> served cold?
>
> Yes, Christopher made it for the Poliudie dayboard. It went over very
> well. It's not as good cold, though; it's best just cool enough to
> handle.
>
> The very enthusiastic eaters said it tasted somewhere between good
> french toast and really good fried mozzarella.
>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> > 1 gal whole milk
>> > 6 small eggs (4 large eggs)
>> > 4 oz lard
>> > 2 cups vinegar or lemon juice
>> > 1 tsp salt (not in original recipe but recommended)
>> > cheese cloth
>> >
>> > Part I: Making the larded milk
>> > 1) gently boil the milk and lard, stir to avoid burning the
>> > milk
>> > 2) once the milk boils, take the milk off the heat
>> > 4) temper the eggs with the milk
>> > 5) add the tempered eggs to the boiled milk
>> > 6) whisk well to avoid 'scrambled eggs', 8-10 minutes
>> > 7) once the egg/milk is smooth, add the acid to curdle the
>> > milk
>> > 8) make sure that the milk has curdled, separate the curds
>> > from the whey by draining through the cheese cloth
>> > 9) press the liquid from to the curds so they become "as
>> > hard as a pigs liver'
>> > 10) form curds into a loaf
>> >
>> > Part II Frying and Serving
>> > a) cut the loaf into pieces as you like (cubes are nice) -
>> > the smaller the pieces the crispier they will be
>> > b) place a whole clove 'button' into each piece
>> > c) fry in oil until outside of the curd turns brown (about
>> > 1 minute per side)
>> > d) remove from oil, sprinkle with sugar and serve
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > -- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, Knowledge Pika jenne at fiedlerfamily.net
>> > "In the clearing stands a boxer, A fighter by his trade
>> > And he carries the reminders Of every blow that laid him down
>> > Or cut him till he cried out, In his anger and his shame,
>> > 'I am leaving, I am leaving' But the fighter still remains."
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Sca-cooks mailing list
>> > Sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
>> > http://www.ansteorra.org/mailman/listinfo/sca-cooks
>
> --
> -- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, Knowledge Pika jenne at fiedlerfamily.net
> "In the clearing stands a boxer, A fighter by his trade
> And he carries the reminders Of every blow that laid him down
> Or cut him till he cried out, In his anger and his shame,
> 'I am leaving, I am leaving' But the fighter still remains."
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Sca-cooks mailing list
> Sca-cooks at ansteorra.org
> http://www.ansteorra.org/mailman/listinfo/sca-cooks
>
>
> End of Sca-cooks Digest, Vol 18, Issue 7
> ****************************************
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