[Sca-cooks] Menagier and stuff was Charcuterie
Johnna Holloway
johnna at sitka.engin.umich.edu
Thu Sep 9 17:54:30 PDT 2004
SNIPPED from the longer message on
>From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius"
>Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Ham, Cold cuts, and Charcuterie
>
>
> Admanantius and Ham ? Had to look
It was said----
"CAVEAT: I AM WORKING ENTIRELY FROM A RATHER FALLIBLE MEMORY!!!
We need a manuscript geek (possibly from the Midrealm? ;-) ) to
verify this, but I have a vague memory of hearing somewhere, being
told, or having a note slipped under my door at midnight, about
rillettes in period France. Possibly in Le Menagier, the English
translation of which I have on hand (Powers -- but don't, in fact,
which is why I'm working from memory) makes references to cracklings."
I'm not a geek--- I am a Librarian!
And I can find my copy of Powers (Ha!) . But I don't find cracklings
mentioned -- cracknels yes
but no cracklings. Under sausages, there's the recipe To Make Sausages,
page 308 which is the
minced pork and fennel sausage recipe. Pages 248-49 go into the making
of the black puddings.
I shall check into the French language editions that I have at hand and
see what I can find.
Menawhile I would note that Balzac was into these in the 19th century---
http://jollyroger.com/xlibrary/TheLilyofBH/TheLilyofBH1.html has a
translation of what he has to say
about them.
>My theory/impression, based, again, on incomplete memories of having
>read this years ago, is that rillettes, as well as the general
>concept of potting things in fat, are probably either very late or
>post-period. However, I think perhaps le Menagier in the original
>French may hold a clue, in its pig processing section, and I would
>not be at all surprised if Powers has translated as cracklings
>something very much like rillons, which are rillettes' big brother.
>
>
>
http://www.best-gourmet.com/uk/produits/p20.html describes
rillettes for those interested
in pork meat products.
Johnnae
>I think perhaps what might have been done in period France, at least,
>is that rillons were made in this way, but strained from the fat to
>be eaten separately. Maybe more like Latino chicharrones than like
>modern rillons or rillettes.
>
>Maybe someone with more time (at the moment) and access to the
>appropriate sources can verify, debunk, or otherwise add to our
>information.
>
>Adamantius
>
>
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