[Sca-cooks] Re: Rilles, Rillons, Rillettes

[nickiandme at att.net]

Rilles, Rillons, Rillettes (L'Aventure de la Véritable Rillette du Mans), Oliver Breton 

was reviewed in PETITS PROPOS CULINAIRES issues 49 and 55.

Kateryn

-------------- Original message from sca-cooks-request at ansteorra.org: -------------- 

> Send Sca-cooks mailing list submissions to 
> sca-cooks at ansteorra.org 
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit 
> http://www.ansteorra.org/mailman/listinfo/sca-cooks 
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 
> sca-cooks-request at ansteorra.org 
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at 
> sca-cooks-owner at ansteorra.org 
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific 
> than "Re: Contents of Sca-cooks digest..." 
> 
> 
> Today's Topics: 
> 
> 1. Re: stewing chickens? (Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius) 
> 2. Re: Stuffed grape leaves (Sue Clemenger) 
> 3. Re: stewing chickens? (Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise) 
> 4. Rilles, rillons, rillettes was Charcuterie (Johnna Holloway) 
> 5. Re: stewing chickens? (Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius) 
> 6. Re: stewing chickens? (R J) 
> 7. Re: Stuffed grape leaves (Chass Brown) 
> 8. Cabbage recipe (nickiandme at att.net) 
> 
> 
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
> 
> Message: 1 
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 06:06:02 -0400 
> From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" 
> 
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] stewing chickens? 
> To: Cooks within the SCA 
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" 
> 
> Also sprach Stefan li Rous: 
> >From Jadwiga: 
> >>Hen in Broth 
> >>Stewing Chicken, 6.9 lb, cut up. 
> >Chickens I can get in the store but I don't think I've ever seen 
> >them labeled as "stewing chicken", although perhaps I just haven't 
> >noticed. So, for this use, what should I look for? 
> 
> Sometimes known as a baking chicken or hen. Generic "fowl", in 
> marketing terms, are, as far as I can tell, even older, stringier, 
> and significantly smaller than those labelled "baking chicken". 
> 
> You might also, if you're relying on the supermarket, see if they 
> have any Kosher chickens (I mean, where does Kinky Friedman shop?) -- 
> I'm pretty sure Empire packs and sells a baking hen. 
> 
> You might also simply ask the guy in charge of putting the meat on 
> the plastic trays and covering them with plastic wrap, the artist 
> formerly known as the butcher ;-). 
> 
> Feel better... 
> 
> Adamantius 
> -- 
> "Why don't they get new jobs if they're unhappy -- or go on Prozac?" 
> -- Susan Sheybani, assistant to Bush campaign spokesman Terry 
> Holt, 07/29/04 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 2 
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 06:48:37 -0600 
> From: Sue Clemenger 
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Stuffed grape leaves 
> To: Cooks within the SCA 
> Message-ID: <41459725.9060000 at in-tch.com> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed 
> 
> Hope you're feeling better, Stefan. 
> And trust me, it sucks just as bad to get it in time for the work week. 
> *sigh* *koff* If you can get a cold in time for the weekend, at least 
> you've got the weekend to take care of yourself! 
> --maire, who came home from Coronation [camping event] last night with 
> the crud, and who is really, *really* looking forward to making that hen 
> in broth.... 
> 
> ranvaig at columbus.rr.com wrote: 
> 
> >> Stefan 
> >> (I'm feeling like I'm coming down with something. So off to bed. Why 
> >> does this have to happen on Friday night rather than say, Monday? Sigh) 
> > 
> > 
> > Good luck, I got it a week ago Wed, and ten days later am still coughing 
> > and having trouble breathing. Take care of yourself. 
> > 
> > Ranvaig 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 3 
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 09:42:36 -0400 
> From: Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise 
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] stewing chickens? 
> To: Cooks within the SCA 
> Message-ID: <20040913134236.GB25998 at fiedlerfamily.net> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii 
> 
> > >Chickens I can get in the store but I don't think I've ever seen 
> > >them labeled as "stewing chicken", although perhaps I just haven't 
> > >noticed. So, for this use, what should I look for? 
> > 
> > Sometimes known as a baking chicken or hen. Generic "fowl", in 
> > marketing terms, are, as far as I can tell, even older, stringier, 
> > and significantly smaller than those labelled "baking chicken". 
> 
> Hm... I've never seen baking chickens. (One imagines them in little 
> Julia Child/King Arthur Flour outfits...) We sometimes get 'roasting 
> chickens'-- what my Christopher calls "Purdue Turrrkey-Chickens!" but I 
> wouldn't use them for this recipe. The person who wrote up this recipe-- 
> we redacted it together--, Sarah bas Mordechai, is Jewish and a lot more 
> experienced with cooking chicken than I, so I just copied her term. 
> 
> I'd just go to the store and buy some chicken thighs, I believe that's 
> what I did. But if you have a choice between roasters and non-roasters, 
> get non-roasters. :) 
> 
> -- 
> -- Jadwiga Zajaczkowa, Knowledge Pika jenne at fiedlerfamily.net 
> "I have found some of the best reasons I ever had for remaining 
> at the bottom simply by looking at the men at the top." Frank Colby 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 4 
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 09:45:35 -0400 
> From: Johnna Holloway 
> Subject: [Sca-cooks] Rilles, rillons, rillettes was Charcuterie 
> To: Cooks within the SCA 
> Message-ID: <4145A47F.3090608 at sitka.engin.umich.edu> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed 
> 
> Went looking and came across this title. 
> Don't know if this will help but there is a book on the topic-- 
> (no I don't own this one) 
> Breton, Olivier is the author. The title is 
> Rilles, rillons, rillettes. Paris 1994. 
> 2841020126 
> It was reviewed by Alan Davidson in PPC 49. 
> It's the only book catalogued under "rillettes--history" according to OCLC. 
> Amazon France has copies. 
> This might provide more information. 
> 
> Johnnae llyn Lewis 
> 
> Continuing the thread From last week when Master A wrote: 
> and I would not be at all surprised if Powers has translated as 
> cracklings something very much like rillons, which are rillettes' big 
> brother. 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 5 
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 10:06:13 -0400 
> From: "Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius" 
> 
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] stewing chickens? 
> To: jenne at fiedlerfamily.net, Cooks within the SCA 
> 
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed" 
> 
> Also sprach Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise: 
> > > >Chickens I can get in the store but I don't think I've ever seen 
> >> >them labeled as "stewing chicken", although perhaps I just haven't 
> >> >noticed. So, for this use, what should I look for? 
> >> 
> >> Sometimes known as a baking chicken or hen. Generic "fowl", in 
> >> marketing terms, are, as far as I can tell, even older, stringier, 
> >> and significantly smaller than those labelled "baking chicken". 
> > 
> >Hm... I've never seen baking chickens. (One imagines them in little 
> >Julia Child/King Arthur Flour outfits...) 
> 
> They call them baking chickens or hens; I'm pretty sure Bell & Evans 
> market one labelled as such; once upon a time, they may have been 
> considered suitable for pies, but now I assume they'd be most 
> commonly braised, which a lot of people do in the oven, which I 
> suspect is why the term is still used. 
> 
> Here's a link to some poultry packers' site with terms and 
> definitions, including some stuff about baking hens and soup/stewing 
> chickens: 
> 
> http://www.goldkist.com/consumer/types.asp 
> 
> Naturally, the Bell & Evans website now makes no mention of soup 
> chickens, baking hens, etc. They no doubt monitor this list and 
> removed all incriminating content seconds before I went to it... 
> 
> > We sometimes get 'roasting 
> >chickens'-- what my Christopher calls "Purdue Turrrkey-Chickens!" but I 
> >wouldn't use them for this recipe. The person who wrote up this recipe-- 
> >we redacted it together--, Sarah bas Mordechai, is Jewish and a lot more 
> >experienced with cooking chicken than I, so I just copied her term. 
> 
> It's a perfectly good term. I also think Sarah, if you're speaking of 
> the person I _think_ you're speaking of, is originally from my neck 
> of the woods, so perhaps she speaks the same dialect of English as I 
> do... 
> 
> >I'd just go to the store and buy some chicken thighs, I believe that's 
> >what I did. But if you have a choice between roasters and non-roasters, 
> >get non-roasters. :) 
> 
> If the choice is between roasters (as in "oven-stuffers", I assume, 
> and not the old-style, pre-mutant, non-steroid-laced roaster) and 
> non-roasters, you might want to steer clear of little fryer/broiler 
> types if that's your only alternative. 
> 
> Then again, chicken thighs make a perfectly good bruet, too. 
> 
> Adamantius 
> 
> -- 
> "Why don't they get new jobs if they're unhappy -- or go on Prozac?" 
> -- Susan Sheybani, assistant to Bush campaign spokesman Terry 
> Holt, 07/29/04 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 6 
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 07:26:56 -0700 (PDT) 
> From: R J 
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] stewing chickens? 
> To: Cooks within the SCA 
> Message-ID: <20040913142656.75939.qmail at web20025.mail.yahoo.com> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii 
> 
> I look for an "old hen" if I can, there are a few 
> "kill to order" places here. 
> If I cant get to one of them, I look for a bird with 
> pinfeathers and/or some hair, this implies a tough old 
> bird with flavor and attitude. 
> You can get them pretty much anyplace ethnic and 
> carnivorous, such as Amish, Asian, Jamaican or Kosher 
> shops. 
> As for Empire, the old ones are only available 
> frozen, wrapped in opaque plastic. Results are highly 
> variable. 
> 
> The substitute we use is 1 pack leg quarters ( about 
> 3 lbs ) and one pack backs and necks, with gizzards if 
> we can get them. ( about 2 lbs odd bits, total ) 
> 
> If you want the "kosher feel", dont forget to add a 
> handful of fresh dill =) 
> 
> 
> Enjoy, 
> 
> AEsa/RJ 
> 
> 
> 
> __________________________________ 
> Do you Yahoo!? 
> Yahoo! Mail - 50x more storage than other providers! 
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 7 
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 09:45:08 -0500 
> From: "Chass Brown" 
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Stuffed grape leaves 
> To: "Cooks within the SCA" 
> Message-ID: <004001c499a0$44909680$2502a8c0 at Catlord> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; 
> reply-type=response 
> 
> My wife has a mix that works great even on the flu if your interested...... 
> 
> 2 teaspoons cayenne pepper 
> 1 1/2 tsp sea salt or regular salt 
> 1 cup boiling water 
> 1 cup apple cider vinegar 
> 
> (grind together cayenne pepper and salt to form a paste, add boiling water 
> or some strong strained chamomile tea. Steep and cool and then add the 
> vinegar. Most adults take between a teaspoon to a table spoon every half 
> hour but I usually do a whole cup) 
> 
> 
> Chass of Rundel of Ansteorra aka 
> Charinthalis Del Sans of the portable Chariot 
> Honorable Recruiter of the House of the Red Shark (Have you seen my Belaying 
> Pin??) 
> Muddeler of Mead, Ailment of Ale, Whiner of wine. 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Sue Clemenger" 
> To: "Cooks within the SCA" 
> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 7:48 AM 
> Subject: Re: [Sca-cooks] Stuffed grape leaves 
> 
> 
> > Hope you're feeling better, Stefan. 
> > And trust me, it sucks just as bad to get it in time for the work week. 
> > *sigh* *koff* If you can get a cold in time for the weekend, at least 
> > you've got the weekend to take care of yourself! 
> > --maire, who came home from Coronation [camping event] last night with the 
> > crud, and who is really, *really* looking forward to making that hen in 
> > broth.... 
> > 
> > ranvaig at columbus.rr.com wrote: 
> > 
> >>> Stefan 
> >>> (I'm feeling like I'm coming down with something. So off to bed. Why 
> >>> does this have to happen on Friday night rather than say, Monday? Sigh) 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> Good luck, I got it a week ago Wed, and ten days later am still coughing 
> >> and having trouble breathing. Take care of yourself. 
> >> 
> >> Ranvaig 
> > 
> > 
> > _______________________________________________ 
> > Sca-cooks mailing list 
> > Sca-cooks at ansteorra.org 
> > http://www.ansteorra.org/mailman/listinfo/sca-cooks 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> Message: 8 
> Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 15:00:02 +0000 
> From: nickiandme at att.net 
> Subject: [Sca-cooks] Cabbage recipe 
> To: sca-cooks at ansteorra.org (Group-SCACooks) 
> Message-ID: 
> 
> <091320041500.17182.4145B5F1000BCF2C0000431E21602813020A030B020E07050C0702 at att.n 
> et> 
> 
> 
> PARA RELLENAR LAS OJAS DE LAS BERZAS, 
> O REPOLLO DE UNA COMPOSICION LLAMADA NOGADA 
> To Stuff the Leaves of the Cabbage, 
> or Round Cabbage with a Composition Called Nogada [walnut sauce] 
> 
> Source: _Libro del Arte de Cozina_, Diego Granado, 1599 
> 
> Translation: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain (Robin Carroll-Mann) 
> 
> Take large cabbage leaves of those which have the big, wide stalk, and remove 
> that stalk from them, and wither the leaves with hot water, and put one leaf on 
> top of another, which will be three in all, sprinkled with cheese, and have 
> prepared a composition of walnuts pounded in the mortar with a few peeled 
> almonds, and a point of garlic, and a crustless bread soaked in broth, and all 
> being well soaked, add mint and marjoram, and chopped parsley, pepper, cinnamon, 
> and saffron, a good quantity, and raw eggs, and raisins, and put the composition 
> on the last leaf and wrap it in the other two leaves, and fasten it, and make it 
> in the form of a ball, and cook it with fatty meat broth with stuffing, and 
> being cooked remove it from the broth, detach the thread and serve it with the 
> stuffing. 
> 
> 
> 2 heads of Savory Cabbage (could have been Savoy - but someone wrote savory on 
> the sign) 
> 1 pound of walnuts (coarsely ground) 
> 6 ounces of sliced almonds 
> 8 ounces of fresh grated parmasan cheese 
> several cloves of garlic – chopped finely 
> 1 cup of bread crumbs 
> 1 / 4 cup vegetable broth 
> 1 tsp finely chopped mint (or to taste) 
> 1 tsp finely chopped marjoram (or to taste) 
> 2 tsp finely chopped parsley (or to taste) 
> 1/8 tsp pepper (or to taste) 
> 1/8 tsp cinnamon (or to taste) 
> 2 pinches strands of saffron (enough to color the mixture yellow) 
> 2 eggs 
> 1 / 2 cup currants 
> 2 cups of vegetable broth 
> 
> Mix walnuts, almonds, cheese, garlic, mint, marjoram, parsley, pepper, saffron 
> and cinnamon together. 
> Mix bread crumbs and 1/4 cup broth together until smooth. 
> Put both mixtures together and add eggs and raisins. 
> Mix thoroughly. 
> This should hold together when squeezed in the hand. Separate the leaves of the 
> cabbage and wilt in hot water. 
> Add 1/4 cup mixture to the center of the top layer. Wrap. Wrap the additional 
> layers around that. 
> Tie with string. 
> Heated in Crock pot for several hours before serving. 
> Remove string just before serving. 
> 
> Changes/experimentation for future reference: 
> - Try with fresh grapevine leaves, preserved grapevine leaves, different cabbage 
> types. Because the cabbage leaves I used were very very tough, even after 
> simmering for several hours. 
> - Add more eggs. The mixture remained crumbly after cooking so it made serving 
> smaller mouthfuls extremely difficult. 
> - Grind and then heat up the saffron in the broth before adding it to the 
> stuffing mixture. Adding the strands alone didn't give it much color. (I knew I 
> should do this - I just got in to big a hurry and was distracted.) 
> - Make it with beef or chicken broth instead of vegetable broth to add more 
> flavor. 
> - Also, might try to add just a bit more fat to the broth. I think the 
> additional fat would have brought out the flavors more. 
> 
> Notes: This is best made and then served in a single day. Cuz of time/travel 
> considerations I had to make these on Friday night and then partially cook and 
> then reheat/finish cooking on Saturday at the event. The flavors on Friday night 
> for the stuffing was just absolutely incredible, awesome cuz I just wanted to 
> eat the stuffing all by itself. Saturday, although people liked it - I just 
> couldn't care for it as much because the flavors had mellowed out a bit. I knew 
> it had been much better the night before. 
> 
> This single recipe batch could easily serve 25 to 30 people at one roll each. 
> 
> It would be interesting to try this as a pottage - ie: chop up the cabbage into 
> small bits, and mix in the broth and stuffing and heat up to serve. 
> 
> Kateryn de Develyn 
> Barony of Coeur d'Ennui 
> Kingdom of Calontir 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------ 
> 
> _______________________________________________ 
> Sca-cooks mailing list 
> Sca-cooks at ansteorra.org 
> http://www.ansteorra.org/mailman/listinfo/sca-cooks 
> 
> 
> End of Sca-cooks Digest, Vol 16, Issue 31 
> *****************************************