[Sca-cooks] Steppes 12th Night is completed
Terry Decker
t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net
Mon Jan 10 15:38:27 PST 2005
As promised, I present my critical consideration of Gunthar's feast for
Steppes 12th Night. It was very successful in terms of two of my criteria.
It was edible and delicious and it was very close to being an excellent
recreation of a medieval meal. I would agree with Gunthar's estimation that
overall it was a "C" and say that the cooking was a "B." In twenty odd years
of Ansteorran feasts, I've seen less than a dozen that were superior in both
quality and authenticity of the cooking, a couple of those being under
Gunthar's control.
The feast was intended to be two courses of about five items each. It became
a feast of three courses (I suspect from cooking delays in the kitchen). I
did miss several of the dishes and I can not comment on their culinary
qualities. Other than the wastels yfarced, there was no bread with the
feast. As a baker, I find this a sad thing, as bread was a large part of any
medieval meal.
Since I currently have a sporadic dry cough, I avoided the kitchen and will
need to rely on Gunthar for any observations therein.
Bear
The Feast
For the first course there was stwd beef, benes yfryed, buttered wortes,
chireseye, wastel yfarced and sauge.
Of these the chireseye and the wastels yfarced were considered the best. The
chireseye appealed to those who like sweets and cherries. I found it a
little more glutinous than I would prefer and I'm definitely not a great fan
of many fruits, but I will agree that it was one of the outstanding dishes
of the meal. I am thinking about experimenting with the recipe later.
The wastels yfarced were the big surprise. A savory stuffed and baked roll,
they presented a perfect blend of taste and texture. From my observations,
the wastels were the best received dish at the feast.
The sauge, chicken served in a spicy sage sauce, was interesting, but the
sauce was a thick paste, where the recipe suggests that it is made as a
thick paste and thinned to a thick sauce. It didn't taste as spicy as the
recipe suggests it should be either. It was of enough interest that I think
I will try the sauce with fish in the near future.
The buttered wortes were okay, but I can't get really enthused about
blanched and steamed greens.
The stwd beef was blander and tougher than than I expected. In my opinion,
the dishes was cooked at too high a temperature or not cooked long enough to
make the meat tender. The spicing is an issue I hope Gunthar will address,
but he was directing the kitchen and I suspect may have left the spicing to
others who didn't taste the results.
The benes yfryed were interesting, but nothing to write home about. If you
like beans, you would enjoy them. If you don't, you won't. This dish was
also the only visible error in recreating period recipes. Red kidney beans
were used, placing a 16th Century vegetable into an early 15th Century
recipe. Black-eyed peas or other Vignas such as yard-long beans would have
been more authentic.
The second course was mousserouns florys, makerouns, cormarye, and apple
tarts.
The mousserouns florys are skewers of bacon and mushrooms, glazed with egg
yolk and sprinkled with spices. Very enjoyable and flavorful, but slightly
lacking in texture.
If you like mac and cheese, the makerouns were a hit. Wide noodles (lasgne
size I believe) layered with cheese. I think they were held in an oven that
was a little too hot because the top cheese had a texture suggesting that it
had been browned, but I found that to be quite acceptable, making the dish a
little more interesting. This dish was close to the wastels yfarced in
popularity.
The pork loin (cormarye) was tasty, but a little dry, either from being
slightly overcooked or being held too long. I wonder if one of the ovens may
not have been running 50 degrees F above its set temperature.
The apple tart was a very good piece of apple pie.
The third course, which I did not get to eat and can not comment on was
capons stwed, creme bastard, and esparaguat, but those who ate it seemed to
enjoy it.
Portions may have seemed small, but the cumulative effect was a more than
adequate meal, except for an absolute carnivore.
Layout and Serving
Gunthar's responsibility was the feast, so this isn't his province, but I'll
discuss it anyway.
The feast hall is a large, long room with a stage at one end. Facing the
stage, there is an alcove to the left about one quarter to one third of the
way down the hall. A nice large commercial kitchen extends back from the
alcove with two large serving windows on the alcove. The main entry is to
the right of the stage opposite the kitchen.
Tables were grouped in sections on either side of the hall, seating 40 to 50
people to a section, and leaving the center of the hall open.
Service was by sending someone from a table up to the serving windows with
plates on a tray (commercial jelly roll pan).
The hall has very bad acoustics and is difficult to keep warm. Fortunately,
the weather was very good, so chilled food was less of an issue. There are
steam tables at each of the windows, but I don't know if they were being
used. From previous experience dining in this hall, I would use them if at
all possible.
The jelly rolls pans being used as trays were supplied some time during the
afternoon. The one we were given was inadequate for the number of dishes we
needed to carry. This problem might have been solved by waiting until about
15 minutes before serving, then counting the place settings and providing an
adequate number of trays. If there were an inadequate number of trays,
service could have been done by section, with the trays being transferred
between sections.
All of the servers were called up at once, causing long lines, extended
waits and some fraying tempers. Service would probably have been smoother
had sections been called up in turn.
Each of the windows had three people doling out portions to the plates as
the trays were moved from right to left across the service windows. It sould
accelerate service if the faster apportioners were on the right side of the
window doling out the largest number of dishes.
I've seen worse feasts on layout and service, but it could have been better.
Were it my feast, I would lay out the hall in the same manner and find six
to eight waiters. The waiters would serve each section seperately to get hot
food to the table as quickly as possible. Before each of the remaining
courses, an almoner and a couple waiters would pass through the sections
with voiders to clear away the debris. I would also use four heralds and
quarter the hall, as suggested by Baron Ulf Gunnarson, to overcome the
problems with the acoustics.
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