[Sca-cooks] Danelaw sources and a book by Savelli

[Lonnie D. Harvel]

Stefan li Rous wrote:

> You don't mention these books, but for info on whether a particular  
> plant or food item was eaten in Anglo-Saxon England, I would  
> recommend these books by Ann Hagen: 

Thanks for the comments Stefan. But, before we go back through this 
discussion of books again, we already did that, twice. :)

Period Sources I looked at are:
Anthimus, /De obseruatione ciborum/, translated by Mark Grant
Ælfric, /Colloquy, /edited by Garmonsway
/Bald's Leechbook/, edited by Cockayne
/Lacnunga, /edited by Grattan and Singer
/Medicina de quadrupedibus, /edited by Vriend
/Peri Didaxeon, /edited by Löweneck
/Recipes/, edited by Cockayne
I also looked at earlier cooking references, like our good Roman friend, 
and later period references.

Non-Period Sources I looked at are:
Mary Savelli, /Tastes of Anglo-Saxon England/
Ann Hagen, /A Handbook of Anglo-Saxon Food/
Ann Hagen, /A Second Handbook of Anglo-Saxon Food.../
Colin Spencer, /British Food: An Extraordinary Thousand Years of History
/Maggie Black, /Food and Cooking in Medieval Britain/
Also various books and websites on herbs, flora, farming, trade and 
such. All briefly.

Comments and references from this list were also extremely helpful.

The question of what constitutes a "correct" recipe for this time period 
and location is largely a matter of epistemology. Faced with a lack of 
specific recipes, each individual constructs their own perception of 
what would be probable in the context of their own preconceptions and 
accepted sources. With regards the book by Mary Savelli (which is only 
$8), I believe that her greatest crime was to actually construct a 
cookbook of recipes instead of simply a discussion of possibilities with 
a few scant examples. Anyone in academics can tell you that, in an area 
of uncertainty, anyone with the audacity to present a clear target will 
be shot at.

In defense of the book by Savelli, her goal was not to reproduce 
specific Anglo-Saxon recipes, but instead to create a collection of 
recipes that would at least be "recognized and enjoyed" by someone from 
the time. Her primary modern source, as stated in her introduction, are 
the books by Ann Hagen. She then proceeds to document every ingredient 
used in each recipe, citing source, old name and modern name (and 
substitution when appropriate). For each recipe, she explains what 
period sources inspired her creation, what earlier and later sources 
give credence, and what substitutions or modernisms she has introduced, 
and why. Though I have not agreed with all of her choices, her 
scholarship, and it's clear presentation, made it possible (and easy) 
for me to examine her arguments and make decisions of my own.

My feast is strongly based upon this book in question. When I posted my 
modified ingredient list to this group, the major discussion focused on 
the use of certain spices and herbs. The difference between the concepts 
of "known" and "available" were at the core of these discussions. This 
sent me back to sources on period herbs, flora, cultivation, and the 
like. I decided that the use of certain "eastern" spices in the Savelli 
recipes, while possible, were certainly extravagant. This resulted in 
yet another change in the ingredients, if not the overall form of the 
recipes. (I am now, through experimentation, adjusting the spices in 
order for the dishes to better work together collectively. It is in this 
process that I believe my modern palate interferes with authenticity. 
Sort of like writing poetry in a language you barely know.)

/A Taste of Anglo-Saxon England/ is well worth the purchase price and is 
an enjoyable and informative place to start exploring cooking from that 
period. This is all that Savelli intended her work to be (according to 
her introduction), and in that context it is an excellent resource. It 
also provides annotations that effectively guide those with scholarly 
interest in the subject to period sources and more academic discussion 
on the various possibilities.

After the feast, 10/1, and my doctoral defense, 10/5 (hopefully), I will 
post the collection of recipes, my alterations and collective 
justifications.

Pax,
Aoghann