[Sca-cooks] Preserved Lemon Recipes - Modern - One

[ysabeau]

Not period, but the latest Cooking Light issue features tagines. 
One of them calls for preserved lemons...so now I have to find 
some! If I don't forget, I'll type in the recipe when I get home.

Ysabeau


---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: James Prescott <prescotj at telusplanet.net>
Reply-To: Cooks within the SCA <sca-cooks at ansteorra.org>
Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 14:39:02 -0600

>
>Casteau's "Ouverture de Cuisine" (published 1604 in what is now
>Belgium, and based on his professional career in the second half
>of the 16th century) appears to use preserved lemons in a number
>of recipes.
>
>Here is one, in which I believe that the "salted [sour] lemon"
>refers to preserved lemons.  This translation and interpretation
>of "limon salé" is not absolutely certain, though I believe it
>to be very probably correct.
>
>
>
>1. [A boiled capon.]
>
>Boiled capon[:] when it is almost cooked, add rosemary, marjoram,
>mace, a salted [sour] lemon cut into slices, a rummer of white
>wine, or verjuice, and some butter, some beef marrowbones, and
>let them stew well together, some toasts of white bread 
underneath.
>
>
>
>Thorvald
>
>
>
>
>At 12:52 -0700 2006-04-24, lilinah at earthlink.net wrote:
>>  Duke Cariadoc already sent the only SCA-period 
>> recipe that uses preserved lemon that has been 
>> translated into English that i know of.
>>
>>  But in his long essay on Medieval Arab cuisine 
>> and cookbooks, "Studies in Arabic Manuscripts 
>> Related to Cookery" (republished in "Medieval 
>> Arab Cookery"), Maxime Rodinson notes there is 
>> a recipe for making preserved lemon and 3 
>> recipes using it in al-Kitab al-wusla ila 
>> al-habib fi wasf al-tayyibat wa al-tib, which 
>> he translates as "The Book of the Bonds of 
>> Friendship or a Description of Good Dishes and 
>> Perfumes" (but is also sometimes called "The 
>> Book of the Link to the Beloved").
>>
>>  While this book contains a number of recipes 
>> repeated in al-Baghdadi's "al-Kitab al-Tabikh", 
>> it also has even more that are not. And 
>> unfortunately the preserved lemon recipes have 
>> not been translated into English to the best of 
>> my knowledge. In a foot note, Rodinson says 
>> that in the recipe for making preserved lemons, 
>> "The lemon is split lengthwise and then filled 
>> with coarse salt. It is left thus for two 
>> nights and then kept in lemon juice covered 
>> with oil." (footnote 1, p. 144, "Medieval Arab 
>> Cookery")
>>
>>  I'll be typing in modern preserved lemon 
>> recipes a few at a time. I haven't tried these 
>> recipes, but they're from books i trust, from 
>> which i've cooked other recipes.
>>
>>  Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)
>>  the persona formerly known as Anahita
>>
>>  ---------------------
>>
>>  The Scent of Orange Blossoms: Sephardic Cuisine from Morocco
>>  Kitty Morse and Danielle Mamane
>>  Ten Speed Press: Berkeley CA, 2001
>>
>>  -----
>>
>>  Preserved Lemon Relish
>>  Makes about 1 cup
>>
>>  Serve with roasted meats or kebabs.
>>  Prepare a day or two ahead of time.
>>
>>  3 preserved lemons, rinsed under running water
>>  4 cloves garlic, finely minced
>>  1 Tb. sweet Hungarian paprika
>>  5 Tb. white distilled vinegar
>>  1/4 c. extra virgin olive oil
>>  10 sprigs parsley, finely chopped
>>
>>  Finely dice lemon rind. Return pulp to containers of lemons 
for future use.
>>  In a bowl, combine rind with garlic, paprika, vinegar, and oil.
>>  Place mixture in a tightly sealed container and 
>> refrigerate for at least 2 hours.
>>  Return to room temperature and sprinkle with parsley before 
serving.
>>  Relish will keep for up to one month in  a 
>> tightly sealed container in the refrigerator.
>>
>>  Urtatim's Notes:
>>  Please use a good quality paprika, and not the 
>> average stuff the supermarket sells.
>>  Please use a good quality olive oil, and not that pale yellow 
stuff.
>>  While the authors specify distilled white 
>> vinegar, i suspect if you use white wine 
>> vinegar it will be good.
>>
>>  -----
>>
>>  Bean Soup with Preserved Lemons
>>  Serves 6
>>
>>  1Tb. sweet Hungarian paprika
>>  2 Tb. virgin olive oil
>>  2 c. dried baby lima beans, soaked and drained
>>  2 bay leaves
>>  5 c. chicken stock
>>  12 cloves garlic, peeled
>>  1 Tb. ground cumin
>>  2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped
>>  2 Tb. tomato paste
>>  2 lamb or chicken sausages (about 4 oz)
>>  1/2 to 3/4 preserved lemon rind
>>  1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
>>  2 tsp. salt
>>
>>  In a small bowl blend paprika with 2 Tb olive 
>> oil and mix until it forms a paste.
>>  In a large pot over medium-high heat, cook the 
>> paprika paste, stirring, until it darkens 
>> slightly, about 2 or 3 minutes.
>>  Add the beans, bay leaves, and stock, and stir to blend.
>>  Cover and bring to a boil for 2 to 3 minutes, then decrease 
heat to low.
>>  Cook until the beans are tender, 1 to 1-1/4 hours.
>>  Discard bay leaves.
>>  Add garlic, cumin, tomatoes, and tomato paste, and stir to 
blend.
>>  Cover and cook for 25 to 30 minutes.
>>
>>  Slice sausages.
>>  In a small skillet, heat remaining 1 Tb olive oil over medium-
high heat.
>>  Add the sausages and cook, turning, until no longer pink, 4 to 
5 minutes.
>>
>>  Dice lemon rind and add it according to taste 
>> to beans, along with pepper, salt, and sausage.
>>  Heat through and serve with a good crusty bread.
>>
>>  Note: the general instructions for soaking 
>> beans include rubbing the soaked beans to 
>> remove their skins before cooking.
>>
>>  Urtatim notes: i bet this would work with little dried fava 
beans.
>>
>>  -----
>>
>>  Tomato Salad with Preserved Lemons
>>  Serves 4
>>
>>  4 vine-ripened tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and cubed
>>  2 to 4 tsp. diced preserved lemon rind
>>  1/8 tsp. salt
>>  1 Tb. red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar
>>  4 to 5 green olives, sliced, or 8 whole dry-cured black olives
>>  [get good olives ("fresh" or bottled), not canned olives]
>>  1 small jalapeno pepper, peeled, seeded, and diced
>>
>>  Place tomatoes in a colendar and drain 30 minutes.
>>  In a small bowl combine all ingredients and mix thoroughly.
>>  Serve at room temperature.
>>
>>  -----
>>
>>  Chard Salad with Preserved Lemon
>>  Serves 8
>>
>>  3 Tb. virgin olive oil
>>  5 cloves garlic, minced
>>  one 12-ounce bunch red chard, stemmed and chopped
>>  one 12-ounce bunch white chard, stemmed and chopped
>>  rind of 1/4 preserved lemon, finely diced
>>  1 Tb. freshly squeezed lemon juice
>>  1/2 tsp. salt
>>  1/8 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
>>  fresh lemon slices for garnish
>>
>>  Heat oil in large skillet over medium-high heat
>>  Add garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, 2 to 
3 minutes.
>>  Add chard a handful at a time.
>>  Using 2 wooden spoons, toss until cooked about 3 to 4 minutes.
>>  Continue in this manner until all the chard is used.
>>  Add preserved lemon rind, fresh lemon juice, salt, and pepper.
>>  Toss to blend.
>>  Transfer to a serving bowl.
>>  Garnish with fresh lemon slices and serve at room temperature.
>>  --
>>  _______________________________________________
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>
>
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