[Sca-cooks] A Sugar Dish Question
lilinah at earthlink.net
Tue Oct 31 18:23:27 PST 2006
>On Oct 30, 2006, at 11:01 AM, Lilinah wrote:
>> Slices of Gammon
> > Le Cuisinier Francois
> > La Varenne
>> p. 232
>> Take some pistaches stamped by themselves, some
>> powder of roses of Provins by themselves, allayed
>> with the juice of lemon, and some almonds stamped
>> also by themselves, and thus each by it self.
>> Seethe about one pound and a half of sugar as for
>> conserve; after it is sod, sever it into three
>> parts, whereof you shall put and preserve the two
>> upon warm cinders, and into the other you shall
>> powre your roses, and after you have allayed them
>> well in this sugar, powre all together into a
>> double sheet of paper, which you shall fold up
>> two inches high on the four sides, and tie it
>> with pines on the four corners. After this, when
>> this first sugar thus powred shall be half cold,
>> and thus coloured, take of your almonds, mix them
>> into one of the parts of sugar left on the warm
>> cinders, and powre them over this implement, and
>> do the like also of the pistaches. Then, when all
>> is ready to be cut with the knife, beat down the
>> sides of the sheet of paper, and cut this sugar
>> into slices of the thickness of half a crown.
>> But i wonder how this would stand slicing...
>I imagine that the instruction to boil as for conserve (as opposed to
>candy) is significant; to me it suggests some unspecified "candy
>height" lower than that of the modern hard crack stage. You
>presumably want something somewhat fudgey, or maybe at the upper end
>of that range, but definitely something that can be sliced, at least
>while warm. It would be speculation to suggest boiling your syrup to
>the soft-to-hard-ball range, but I think in this case form is
>supported by function.
I am sugar clueless. I don't care a great deal for sweets, so i've
made very few in the recent past - just for feasts i've cooked. And
i've never made jams or preserves. And i don't think i've made fudge
since i was in high school... Lately i've been making beverage syrups
(and i goofed and cooked the last one a little too long - it's still
syrup, but rather, mmm, dense). So this sugar candy stuff is all new
Would this benefit by the addition of pectin?
Thanks for the various suggestions.
> > and
>> cut this sugar into slices of the thickness of
>> half a crown.
>I'm not sure how thick a mid-17th-century half-Crown is, and I'm also
>curious as to what La Varenne was actually referring to, because it
>could be an assumption of the translator or some specific knowledge
>that La Varenne's equivalent coin or measurement would be the same...
It's the 17th C. English translation and i don't know if it was
accurate here - but it seems that it would be rather thin, in any
See, with a meat or vegetable or fruit dish, i can test cook a couple
servings. But with sweets, i don't want to be making quantities of
the stuff that i'll just be tossing out - especially if it uses
expensive items like pistachios...
Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)
the persona formerly known as Anahita
More information about the Sca-cooks