[Sca-cooks] Pulled Sugar Penydes was SCA 50th Anniversary Challenge
lilinah at earthlink.net
Tue Jul 22 11:48:53 PDT 2008
>Brighid ni Chiarain said:
> > Johnnae, you probably know about this already -- there are pulled
> > sugar recipes in the 13th c. Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook.
>Thank you for posting this. I will add this to my pulled-sugar-msg
>file. This is the earliest date I have for this.
>It definitely looks like pulled sugar, even without Brighid's
>addition here is period. I think the point of contention was whether
>some of the other techniques such as sugar blowing and spun sugar was
>period or not. I guess in my mind I was lumping all of these as
>"pulled sugar" which they aren't, although they all deal with
>manipulating sugar in it's semi-molten state.
A type of pulled sugar candy called fanidh is mentioned a number of
times in "al-Kitab al-Tabikh" by ibn Sayyar al-Warraq, the 10th C.
collection of 9th and 10th c. recipes (and in other books). In her
expansive Glossary, Nasrallah mentions that these candies are usually
in rounds and there are a number of different kinds, from both white
and red sugar. Unfortunately, there's no recipe for fanidh in
al-Warraq and i didn't find a recipe last night in a couple other
"al-Kitab al-Tabikh" of al-Baghdadi, date 1226, which i think is
earlier than the anonymous Andalusian cookbook, has a recipe for
Halwa Yabisa, in Chapter 9, p. 98, in Charles Perry's recent new
Halwa Yabisa. The way to make it is to take sugar, dissolve it with
water, and boil it until it thickens. Then take it out of the dist*
and put it on a smooth floor tile* until its heat subsides. Then
pound an iron peg with a smooth head (into the wall), and throw (the
candy) on it, and stretch it with the hand unceasingly. Return it to
the peg like that until it turns white. Then throw it on the tile and
knead pistachios with it, and cut it into strips and triangles. If
you want, color it with saffron or cinnabar*. Some of it may be
rolled (or kneaded) with peeled almonds, sesame seeds, or poppy seeds.
- A dist is a copper pot that is wider than it is high.
- Tiles are useful - i think the sugar is being put not directly on
the *floor*, but on a clean tile, reserved for culinary purposes.
- Cinnabar is red mercury - do NOT use it to color your food.
A more detailed recipe was inserted in the marginalia of
al-Baghdadi's book next to the above recipe. It was taken from ibn
Jazla's book "Minhaj al-Bayan", an 11th century medical dictionary:
Halwa Uabisa Sukkariyya. It has many varieties. It is that you take
sugar and put a quarter of a pound of water on a mann (two pounds) of
it. Dissolve it and put it on a quiet fire until it becomes thick.
When you take some of it and put it in the mouth or in mater, it will
be chewy. If it does not become chewy, leave it (on the fire) a
little more. Then take it up, throw it on a stone, and knead it with
clipped crushed peeled almonds, about two ounces. Roll it out and
leave it to dry, and take it up. If you want to put some saffron in
it, let it be before it comes down from the fire. You might pound
almonds fine and mix them with it. --- Perry's trans., pp. 98-99
In her Glossary to al-Warraq, Nasrallah mentions that there's a
recipe for a pulled honey candy in "al-Fadalat al-Khiwan fi Tayybat
al-Ta'am wa'l-Alwan" by ibn Razin al-Tujibi, dated 1230, from
al-Andalus, although i think we don't yet have that particular recipe
in translation. Nawal Nasrallah told me she intends to translate it,
so we may have the whole book in someday.
I haven't noticed any spun or blown sugar in Arabic-language sources.
But i don't always read the sweet recipes as carefully as i read meat
and vegetable recipes.
Urtatim (that's err-tah-TEEM)
the persona formerly known as Anahita
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