[Sca-cooks] artichokes vs cardoon
lordhunt at gmail.com
Sun Mar 30 15:52:21 PDT 2008
> It is possible that artichokes (Cynara scolymus)
> did not exist in 13th C. al-Andalus, and the
> cookbook may call for their relative and
> predecessor, the cardoon (Cynara cardunculus),
> whose stalks (not leaves) were eaten steamed or
> braised and which are said to taste rather like
> artichokes. On the other hand, the wikipedia
> article on artichokes says they were developed in
> the Maghrib and introduced to Italy from there
> around the 9th C. There's citation for [Watson,
> Andrew. Agricultural innovation in the early
> Islamic world. Cambridge University Press. p.64]
> but that may just point to the development of the
> artichoke in the Muslim world.
> Perry worked from the original Arabic, not from Huici's Spanish, and in his
> translation he points out some spots where Huici
> erred. . .
> Cardoons show up in only two recipes:
> 266. Preparing a Dish With Cardoon, and 267.
> Preparing a Dish of Cardoons with Meat.
> There's a footnote for the word "cardoon":
>  A giant thistle with edible stalks from
> which the artichoke was developed, almost
> certainly in Andalusia (our word artichoke
> ultimately comes from "al kharshuf," which is a
> diminutive of "kharshaf.") Since the recipes say
> nothing about leaves, choke or calyx, I think we
> should assume that cardoon is really what is
> being called for here; probably the artichoke had
> not been developed yet. (CP)
Huici like Perry translated from the Hispano Arabic text, not
Arabic. As la Granja points out in Fadalat these texts are not easy
Perry is quite critical of Huici and I am sure if Huici (1879-1973) had
had the opportunity to review Perry's text he would have been just as
critical. Further I see Huici and la Granja studying Moroccan/Maghrib
Arabic while Perry seems to be more involved with Persian Arabic.
Now if we have the artichoke in the Sicily/Naples area in the 9th C,
why cannot we have it in southern Spain in the 13th?
I don't question you but I do question Perry.
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