[Sca-cooks] Leaf pastry developed into puff pastry
lordhunt at gmail.com
Sat Nov 22 06:36:56 PST 2008
"Robin Carroll-Mann" wrote:
> I suppose I should throw in my two maravedis. The oldest definition I
> have for hojaldre is from Covarrubias (1611).
> la torta de manteca, que de muy sobada con ella, esta' hecha hojas una
> sobre otra.
> My translation would be:
> the tart [dough] of fat, which being well kneaded with it, is made
> [of] leaves, one upon another.
> A few notes:
> This definition is rather vague. It *could* mean that "hojaldre" is
> made like phyllo, with multiple layers of thin dough. It could also
> mean that -- like puff pastry -- it forms the layers during baking,
> and that Covarrubias is describing the finished product.
> The dictionary of the Royal Spanish Academy says the leaves form
> during baking, but as that was written in 1734, the meaning may have
> I translated "hojaldre" as "leaf pastry" because it's the most literal
> translation that follows the etymology ("hoja" means "leaf").
> "Pastry" is not part of the Spanish word, but it's needed for context.
> It may *be* something very like puff pastry, but to translate it that
> way would be drifting from the etymology, and making assumptions.
> "torta" is normally "tart" or "cake", but here I am sure that he is
> referring to the dough that forms the crust. In the same source, the
> adjective "hojaldrado" is defined as anything made with ojaldre [sic].
> Modernly, "manteca" is lard. Covarrubias defines it as animal fat,
> but it can sometimes refer to butter.
> I believe that Granado has instructions for making "oxaldre", and I'll
> look for that. In the meantime, I'd love to hear Suey (or anyone else
> fluent in Spanish) comment on Covarrubias' definition.
I think you are right on with your translation of Covarrubias
definition of hojaldre. Maravedis de oro it is! :-) I know you are
very literal in your translations but I am still mincing over 'leaf
pastry'. Would 'flaky pastry' make more sense to the reader? On
"manteca" I would translate the last part of Covarrubias' definition
thus: it is described as fat, butter and lard. In Leon lard from cows
called butter because it is so rich.
Granado has four recipes for making different types of "Ojaldre"/dough,
pp 152-155. The first one is made like phyllo with multiple layers of
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