[Sca-cooks] ISO carbonado references.

Terry Decker t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net
Tue Sep 2 12:08:38 PDT 2008


After reading Markham, I would say the antecedents of carbonados are 
Italian.

Two recipes in Martino's Libro de arte coquinaria have marked similarities 
to Markham's description, per fare carbonata di carne salata and per fare 
brasole di carne di vitella.  Both of these recipes appear in Platina, which 
means they would have had wide dissemination in Europe, through the various 
translations and prinitings of De Honesta Volputate and, possibly, the 
Epulario.  I have not verified that these recipes made it into the later 
work.

I haven't done anything with the veal cutlet recipe, but I have adapted the 
carbonata recipe for feast.

The carbonata recipe is as follows:
Per fare carbonata, togli la carnat salata che vergellata di grasso et magro 
enseme, et tagglia in fetta, et ponile accocere ne la padella et non le 
lassare troppo cosere. Dapoi mittele in un piatello et gettavi sopra un 
pocho, di succharo, un pocho di cannelia, et un pocho di petrosillo tagliato 
menuto. Et similmente poi fare di summata o prosutto, giongendoli in scambio 
d'aceto del sucho d'aranci, o limoni, quel che piu ti placesse, et farratte 
meglio beverre.

To make carbonata, take salt meat layered with lean and fat, and cut it in 
slices, and put it in a pan to cook; do not let it overcook. Then put it on 
a plate and sprinkle it with vinegar, a little sugar, a little cinnamon, and 
a little finely chopped parsley. And you can do the same to prepare salt 
pork or ham, using orange or lemon juice in place of vinegar, whichever you 
prefer; it will make you drink all the better.

Carbonata

8 thin slices of ham (air or salt cured for preference)

1 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

1 Tablespoon finely chopped parsley

3 Tablespoons wine vinegar, bitter orange juice or lemon juice

Lightly brown the meat in an ungreased skillet and transfer to a platter.

Sprinkle the sugar, cinnamon and vinegar or juice over the meat

or

Stir the spices and vinegar or juice together in the skillet and pour over 
the meat.

Sprinkle parsley on the meat.

Serves eight.


In Platina the two recipes are 6.26 and 6.28.

Bonne chance,

Bear

> Hi all,
> I'm working on my article for Artes Draconis on
> carbonadoes/carbonados/charbonados. Markham (English Housewife) states 
> that
> this particular cooking technique is French in its origin.
> However, the only French reference I've been able to find is a list of 
> foods
> in a Francois Rabelais story from 1532.
>
> There is another English reference to Spain though. (A PAGEANT  OF
> SPANISH HUMOURS. Wherin are naturally de- / scribed and lively portrayed 
> the
> kinds / and quallities of a signior / of Spaine. /
> Translated out of Dutche by H.W. /  Haud curo Inuidiam. / [imagen] /
> Imprinted at London by [J. Windet for] Iohn Wolfe, and are to be solde at 
> /
> his shop in Popes-head Alley, neare to / the Exchange 1599. )
> http://www.ehumanista.ucsb.edu/projects/spanish_black_legend/02.htm
> "3 A signior is a woolfe at table.
> Signior at his dyet is as a ravenous woolfe, with the one elbow leaning on
> the table, openeth his mawe like a Judas putse. He layeth his tallants on
> the meat like a woolfe that gripeth a lambe: he esteemes it no shame to
> ruyne the dith and tumble the eates topsies turvie [sic], to seeke de 
> buena
> gana los buenas boccades, the which ell ventro del uno he purposeth to 
> send;
> what a signior doeth not eate, he heaeth, or unseemly myngleth. Amore
> lickorish wretch earth doth not produce, his fare must daily be fresh, 
> both
> roasted and sod, besides this, he is a wonderfull devourer of  olia 
> podridos
> and carbonadoes, togither with an infinit quantitie of fruites, comfites,
> and boccados yet it is a hard matter if a man hath not one good qualitie, 
> no
> es barachono, you must not thinke so, except it [5]were a chance 8  910 .
> This is a signiosr dyet at anothers cost, but alas if you finde him at his
> owne table, you may see it stately furnished  with a sardinia, or a
> crust of bread, a pot of agua, and perhaps a bone, yet abroad, if there be 
> a
> woolfe at the table, signior is one. "
>
> And there's a brief reference in Christopher Marlowe's Tamburlaine
> "Take it up Villaine and eat it, or I will make thee slice the brawnes of
> thy armes into carbonadoes, and eat them."
>
> I've done some extensive Google <http://www.google.com/> searching
> with limited success except for multiple citations from Markham and links 
> to
> spiffy Brazilian black diamonds (also called carbonadoes).  There's 
> nothing
> in the Florilegium except for Markham's references to carbonadoes  (posted
> by Adamantius), as well a few menus here and there. So, I would like some
> help beyond that. If there's an actual French or Spanish source that
> discusses carbonados (and its various spellings) , I would appreciate it.
>
> I can read French.
>
> Thanks!
> Gwyneth Banfhidleir, OL (Midrealm)




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