[Sca-cooks] Handwashing in 1500's Italian feast menus

Raphaella DiContini raphaellad at yahoo.com
Thu Sep 3 16:16:48 PDT 2009


Greetings, 
  There's something I've noticed when looking through two menus in Messisbugo, that recalled to mind something I had seen in the Scappi menus as well.
 
Just before the final course the top tablecloth was removed to reveal a clean one underneath, scented water was provided for hand washing, and in Scappi, they were given clean napkins. 

>From Messisbugo's Libro Novo, Menu in the Middle of August 1530
"And therein is removed one tablecloth and everything on the tables, and they are given sweet-smelling water for the hands." 

Again from the Menu for the Eight of September 1531
"And there they removed tablecloth and everything on the table, and they are given sweet-smelling water for the hands,"

This was apparently not limited to only feasts or even evening meals, as looking through the Menu translations posted by Helewyse here: 
http://www.geocities.com/helewyse/octobermenus.html 
You can see this mentioned in both Lunch and Dinner menus

>From Scappi's Opera 

Lunch on the 15th of October 
"Raise the tablecloth, wash hands, change the white napkins" 

The same is mentioned again in the dinner menu on the same day
"Raise the tablecloth, wash hands, change the white napkins"

In the August lunch and dinner menus on August 8th and 15 all this is mentioned each time in the same place in the menu, translated as: "Lift the tablecloth, give water to the hands, one changes to the white serviettes and one serves" the  Italian transcription is: 
"Levata la tovaglia, & data l’acqua alle mani, si muteranno salviette candide"

This is listed immediately before the final course, and is seen consistently in both sources. 

I've used the serving practices listed in Scappi's menus before, with each course alternately buffet style from the sideboard (Credenza) or served from the kitchen (Cuchina), but I have yet to attempt this changing of table linens and providing scented (I would guess rose, or citrus) water, before the final course and I'm wondering about the logistical feasibility of it. Perhaps this is something that could only work for a perfect period feast where all of the servers and diners are trained in what to expect as I can imagine the chaos and complaints that might ensue if I were to try this currently. Perhaps if there was a class on one of the etiquette manuals, or an overview of many? Any thoughts? 

In joyous service, 
Raffaella



      



More information about the Sca-cooks mailing list