[Sca-cooks] Just back from France

[Michael Gunter]

The proto-wife and I have just returned from a two week tour of France. 
Of interest to the list:
Had a cooking class in the home of a chef professor at The Institut du Paul Bocuse
(Made squash soup with sauteed scallops, Duck breast in reduced fig sauce, and 
Baked Apples in Creme Anglaise)
We visited several open air markets with produce the envy of any food distributer in the
US. My one real regret was not having a kitchen in order to play with all these wonderful
new toys. I got to talk with fruit and vegetable vendors, cheese makers and charcuterie
specialists. And the meanest of their products blows away any megre attempts I have
produced. The quality and skill is so amazing.
We visited a winery and stood in a vault dating from the 9th Century that was the very first ever used to
store what is now considered Chablis wine. It also housed the bones of a saint for a
time. We walked away with a bottle of expensive but amazing wine.
In Beaurne we visited a hospital for the poor that was more beautiful than most palaces. It also had
restored the kitchen to 18th Century standards. I got to watch the workings of a clockwork spit.
I attended a daylong class at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris. We made Mussles in Curry sauce, Blanquette
of Lamb with baby vegetables, and Grandmother Tart (apples, pears and nuts cooked in custard in
a shortcrust shell). 
I discoveret "Raclette" in Cambaray. It is a half a wheel of cheese with heating element placed over it.
The cheese melts out onto a plate where it is scooped up and eaten with bread or cured meats. It is
the perfect dish when viewing the French Alps.
After eating one of the best meals of the trip in Beaurne I was invited by the chef to go tour his kitchen.
At Les Halles in Lyon I was offered a job to help a butcher on the weekends.
In Dijon I visited the Maille mustard shop, where I bought a jar of grainy mustard that was pumped into
the container as you would do with beer. When I told him about my "famous" Digby spiced mustard he
offered to sell it in the shop if I provided it.
 
We went to Guedelion, a 13th Century castle reproduction that is being built in a totally period manner.
I got to be friends with the Project Manager and was offered the opportunity to come out and design
their kitchen and conduct cooking demos. Of course I can't take the time to do that, but is is fun to
think about.
 
Wonderful meals: The "freshwater fish stew" that was more like fish in cream sauce. Eating too much
bone marrow at a bouchon. Lots of duck confit. Having a "Rabbit Salad" that I figured to be roasted
rabbit mixed with a buerre blanc with tarragon and thyme and molded. I will definately be reproducing
that! Strangely enough having Chinese steamed dumplings in Lyon and fantastic Italian food in Paris.
Eating crepes bought from a sidewalk vendor in Paris.
Fois Gras with fig preserves.
Ouefs en Meurette sauce.
 
There was much more but I have to say it is very nice to be home. I have two cookbooks, several recipes
and some stuff in my head that I will be using in the near future.
 
Gunthar