[Sca-cooks] Takes on Hamburger history
Terry Decker
t.d.decker at att.net
Sun May 28 09:28:42 PDT 2017
Do you worry about the effort or amount of work if you hire others to do it?
A sharp, heavy cleaver makes chopping a lot easier. And a big mortar and
pestle makes meat paste a simple, if strenuous proposition. Chiquart calls
for a dozen large mortars in his kitchen layout. (IIRC, Scully provides
more modern comments on the uses Medieval kitchen equipment.)
Strainers and colanders are used to filter out oversize pieces left in the
paste.
Bear
We have discussed chopping meat vs. grinding it previously. Like Gunthar,
the writers of this article also said "Pounding meat in order to tenderize
it takes a lot of work (though it is easier than mincing). It was much more
work than running it through a meat grinder."
They also highlight:
<<< But mechanical grinders were still rare items in the 1880s. A typical
kitchen would not have had one when Mrs. Lincoln's Boston Cook Book was
first published.
It was becoming clear to us that the critical step in the evolution of the
hamburger was probably the availability of meat grinders. In 1897, a company
called Landers, Frary and Clark launched their “universal food chopper.
Originally marketed for chopping and grinding almost any food in the
kitchen, today we would look at this object and refer to it as a meat
grinder. >>>
also
<<< The ingredients were the same as the authentic Hamburg steak, but
running the same meat through a grinder made a world of difference. Steak
Hamburg turned into a completely different food once people switched from
pounding to grinding. >>>
So, if meat grinders weren't available and folks didn't chop up the meat by
hand because of the labor, how fine or chunky was the meat that was put into
medieval sausages?
I would also say this is the answer to when people say a hamburger is period
because all the ingredients are. The meat is period, but ground meat of this
consistency really wasn't. They *could* make it, but few chose to and fewer
still chose to put it between two slices of bread, which wasn't that similar
to a modern, fluffy hamburger bun, anyway.
Another point, I know that a number of people have redacted and cooked
medieval sausage recipes. I've got a number of these in the Florilegium. I
suspect all of these used meat ground in a grinder.
So are we likely to be chopping up the meat to a finer texture than what the
medieval sausage recipes were calling for?
Stefan
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