ANST - Need some costuming advice

[Helen and Bennie Brown]

> From:          AuroraeB <AuroraeB at aol.com>
> Date:          Wed, 29 Apr 1998 02:05:20 EDT
> To:            ansteorra at Ansteorra.ORG
> Subject:       ANST - Need some costuming advice
> Greetings.......
> I have been doing costuming and mundane fashion design for going on 10 years.
> But, I have yet to make a researched SCA re-creation garment for competition
> purposes.  I would like to try my hand at researching and building a
> reproduction garment.
> 
> I have found paintings from the period of the dress I want to make.  I also
> have woodcuts from a period source as well.  
> 
> The problems I am having so far are:
> 
> Materials:  What is acceptable substitution for "period" fabrics?  The garment
> is a "court"-type dress and was made from silken velvets and brocades.
> Obviously, it is not expected that I hunt down replicas in both fiber content
> and pattern.  But, what are the expected limits of substitution?
>
Any material that "looks" right should do, as long as you state in 
your documentation why you used that material.  i.e. silk velvet is 
too expensive, so I used modern cotten velveteen or "I found this 
great poly-cotton brocade that had a close replica pattern to a 1450 
brocade pictured in such and such painting by so and so".
 
> Construction:  What type of construction techniques are acceptable?  Obviously
> I do not intend to hand-stitch this garment.  Should I stick to straight
> stitch?  Or utilize some of the cool stitches for reinforcement of my seams
> like overlocking?  What to do about unraveling fabric?  Pink it? Serge it?
> Zig-zag it? Bind it?  
Use of a sewing machine is not forbidden.  Use whatever is necessary 
on the inside.  All stitching that shows should look "hand" done.  
Nothing ruins a great looking outfit more than obvious machine 
zigzagging on trim.  (My opinion.)  For my garb, I prefer hand sewing 
everything, but then, I've been hand sewing since I was 5 and I'm 51 
now.  I sew better and fit better by hand.
 
> Infrastructure:  What materials and techniques should I use for linings,
> bonings, etc. to make the garment hang and fit properly?  Even with proper
> corsetry, the garment still needs a canvas or twill lining for shape.  Are
> steel bonings preferred?
Janet Arnold's books are great for showing construction techniques 
that they used in late period.  Great photos of actual garments 
inside and out.  They were sometimes a mess on the inside, but looked 
great on the outside.

> Closures:  This garment laces up.  Can I reinforce the lacings with grommets?
> Do they need to be covered with stitching?  I have tried to make corset/bodice
> lacings without grommets before, and even with things like twill tape and
> heavy stitching, they still tear and rip.  And, what practical things can I
> substitute?  Maybe a panel allowing some ease in lacing?  
Again one of Janet Arnold's books, (I draw a blank on the name, it's 
not handy right now) shows using metal rings (washers) between 
material layers and oversewed in place of modern grommets.  The young 
ladies in our group who wear corsets and tight bodices, use a line of 
steel or plactic boning between the lacing holes and the edge of the 
material to prevent the garment tearing or stretching too much.

> I guess, I need to know the practical techniques for garment re-creation in
> the SCA.  This is going to be both a show and wearable piece.  So, good, sound
> construction is essential.  I need tips on how to get both practical and
> period techniques.
> 
> Does anybody have a guideline list or other source for costuming specifics?
> Does anybody have a list of definite "no-no's"?  How about a basic list of
> requirements for a good competition piece?
If you internet access, go to www. sca.org, then to Arts and 
Sciences.  There are great beginnin links there that should start you 
in the right direction.
 
> Thanks,
> Tracy R.
> (Aurorae B)

Hope this helps you.
Helen Brown
HL Hellen Bales MacQueene
Stronghold of FalconRidge, Kingdom of Ansteorra
browns at intplsrv.net
Altus, Oklahoma
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