ANST - Need some costuming advice

[AuroraeB]

Greetings.......

I have been doing costuming and mundane fashion design for going on 10 years.
But, I have yet to make a researched SCA re-creation garment for competition
purposes.  I would like to try my hand at researching and building a
reproduction garment.

I have found paintings from the period of the dress I want to make.  I also
have woodcuts from a period source as well.  

The problems I am having so far are:

Materials:  What is acceptable substitution for "period" fabrics?  The garment
is a "court"-type dress and was made from silken velvets and brocades.
Obviously, it is not expected that I hunt down replicas in both fiber content
and pattern.  But, what are the expected limits of substitution?

Construction:  What type of construction techniques are acceptable?  Obviously
I do not intend to hand-stitch this garment.  Should I stick to straight
stitch?  Or utilize some of the cool stitches for reinforcement of my seams
like overlocking?  What to do about unraveling fabric?  Pink it? Serge it?
Zig-zag it? Bind it?  

Infrastructure:  What materials and techniques should I use for linings,
bonings, etc. to make the garment hang and fit properly?  Even with proper
corsetry, the garment still needs a canvas or twill lining for shape.  Are
steel bonings preferred?

Closures:  This garment laces up.  Can I reinforce the lacings with grommets?
Do they need to be covered with stitching?  I have tried to make corset/bodice
lacings without grommets before, and even with things like twill tape and
heavy stitching, they still tear and rip.  And, what practical things can I
substitute?  Maybe a panel allowing some ease in lacing?  

I guess, I need to know the practical techniques for garment re-creation in
the SCA.  This is going to be both a show and wearable piece.  So, good, sound
construction is essential.  I need tips on how to get both practical and
period techniques.

Does anybody have a guideline list or other source for costuming specifics?
Does anybody have a list of definite "no-no's"?  How about a basic list of
requirements for a good competition piece?

Thanks,
Tracy R.
(Aurorae B)
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