[Ansteorra] fitting gores and gussets

[L T]

Something else to consider is that fabric cut on the bias will naturally stretch.
Mistress Kaitlyn in a class on Houpelande's suggested that when you have
fabric cut/sewn in a garment on a bias to hang the garment 24 hours to let the fabric settle...then hem it.

LDeerSlayer

Jennifer Carlson <talana1 at hotmail.com> wrote: Lady Susan was asking about inserting gores.

In clothing construction language, a gore is a piece inserted into a seam; a 
godet is a piece inserted into a slit.  Godets can be tricky, and require 
practice to get them to work right.

The most difficult aspect of getting gores and godets to behave is that you 
are working with bias edges - cuts that go diagonally across the grain.  
Bias edges want to behave like the edge of a leaf of lettuce - they go all 
wavy, they stretch, and don't want to behave.

There are some tricks that will counteract this:

1)  If the cloth is cotton or linen, starch the heck out of it before you 
cut out the garment.  It's always a good idea to starch linen before 
cutting, if you're going to have any diagonal or curved cuts, because linen 
threads are not social creatures, and the first hint they get that the 
imposed order of the fabric's weave has been compromised, they'll start 
misbehaving.

2) After cutting the pieces, take them straight from the cutting board to 
the sewing machine and run a line of stay stitching about 1/2" from the 
edge.  The stitching will keep the bias edge from stretching and rippling.

Someone mentioned the importance of placing the top of the gore - she's 
right, and Susan, this is probably the root of your problem in getting a 
good fit.

There's something called the "swing point" or "flare point" in shaping a 
garment over a body curve.  If it's too high, you get a pucker or pleat form 
where the excess fabric finds a home when you wear it.  If it's too low, you 
get an unpleasant-looking strained point, and you will probably pull out the 
stitching at the top of the gore/godet.  So, how do you locate the proper 
point?

Think of a basketball with a piece of fabric draped over it.  The exact 
point where the fabric ceases to lie on the curve of the ball's surface and 
hangs into space instead is the flare point.  That corresponding point on 
your hips is where the very tip of the gore/godet should go.  Once you 
master judging where the flare point is, you'll find the concept helpful in 
making better sleeves and fitting over the bust, as well.

Hope this helps,

Talana


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