[Ansteorra] fitting gores and gussets
Susan
catmafia at hughes.net
Sun Sep 24 11:00:40 PDT 2006
Thank you so much Talana,
These have always intimidated me and I have avoided them as opposed to
taking chance of doing them wrong. I remember bits and pieces of what
you've told me through the years, and will remember to try to the starch
and use a stay stich in doing this linen.
Thanks so much,
Susan
Jennifer Carlson wrote:
>Lady Susan was asking about inserting gores.
>
>In clothing construction language, a gore is a piece inserted into a seam; a
>godet is a piece inserted into a slit. Godets can be tricky, and require
>practice to get them to work right.
>
>The most difficult aspect of getting gores and godets to behave is that you
>are working with bias edges - cuts that go diagonally across the grain.
>Bias edges want to behave like the edge of a leaf of lettuce - they go all
>wavy, they stretch, and don't want to behave.
>
>There are some tricks that will counteract this:
>
>1) If the cloth is cotton or linen, starch the heck out of it before you
>cut out the garment. It's always a good idea to starch linen before
>cutting, if you're going to have any diagonal or curved cuts, because linen
>threads are not social creatures, and the first hint they get that the
>imposed order of the fabric's weave has been compromised, they'll start
>misbehaving.
>
>2) After cutting the pieces, take them straight from the cutting board to
>the sewing machine and run a line of stay stitching about 1/2" from the
>edge. The stitching will keep the bias edge from stretching and rippling.
>
>Someone mentioned the importance of placing the top of the gore - she's
>right, and Susan, this is probably the root of your problem in getting a
>good fit.
>
>There's something called the "swing point" or "flare point" in shaping a
>garment over a body curve. If it's too high, you get a pucker or pleat form
>where the excess fabric finds a home when you wear it. If it's too low, you
>get an unpleasant-looking strained point, and you will probably pull out the
>stitching at the top of the gore/godet. So, how do you locate the proper
>point?
>
>Think of a basketball with a piece of fabric draped over it. The exact
>point where the fabric ceases to lie on the curve of the ball's surface and
>hangs into space instead is the flare point. That corresponding point on
>your hips is where the very tip of the gore/godet should go. Once you
>master judging where the flare point is, you'll find the concept helpful in
>making better sleeves and fitting over the bust, as well.
>
>Hope this helps,
>
>Talana
>
>
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