[Ansteorra] Clarifications regarding Kingdom Sumptuary Law

Tue Jul 29 06:16:49 PDT 2014

Greetings unto the populace of Ansteorra from Sara Penrose, Star Principal
Herald.

A number of questions have arisen lately regarding kingdom sumptuary laws,
which are the rules that apply to the design of circlets/fillets, coronets,
and crowns. So, I’m taking this opportunity to provide some reminders and
clarifications. If you are in a position - as an armiger, a court or
territorial noble, or a royal – to purchase a circlet, coronet, or crown
from one of Ansteorra’s many gifted artisans, it is incumbent upon YOU to
know kingdom sumptuary law before you commission or pay for your “hat”.

If you want the short version, here are two simple steps for coming up with
a design that won’t violate sumptuary law:

   1.

   READ AND *UNDERSTAND* kingdom sumptuary laws:
   http://seneschal.ansteorra.org/forms/Kingdom_Law_2013.pdf, Article IX:
   Coronet Sumptuary Laws
   2.

   CONTACT ME to confirm that your design is okay. I am incredibly easy to
   find. My email address is kingdom at herald.ansteorra.org, my phone number
   is in the Black Star, and I am on Facebook as Sara Penrose.  I would be
   beyond delighted to answer any questions you might have, or to review a
   drawing of your design. Heraldy should be fun, and I would be honored to
   help you come up with a design that you love and that also follows
   Ansteorra’s rules and traditions.

Here’s the long version:

The sumptuary laws, as written, use very specific language, including a
number of heraldic terms that have very specific definitions. The
specificity of the language means that there is a lot of room to create
circlets, coronets, or crowns that technically do not violate the letter of
sumptuary law, but that violate the spirit of the law. As it is impossible
to regulate every possible variation of coronet design via written
sumptuary law, I must beseech you all to exercise common sense, restraint,
and courtesy when you are privileged enough to be in a position to
commission a coronet of rank for yourself or your group.

The symbols that we use in the SCA have only the power and meaning that we
give them, through our belief in them and our love of the ideals they
represent. When we begin to use them excessively or in ways which approach
the line of being in violation of the law, we dilute their meaning and
power, and we diminish an important aspect of our shared dream.

Here are some basic rules of thumb:

   -

   Try to adhere to the spirit of the sumptuary law, not just the letter.
   -

   If your design makes you look like you have a rank that you are not
   entitled to, it’s probably not a good design, even if it’s technically
   “legal”.
   -

   Designs can be grandfathered on a case-by-case basis, but such
   exceptions are exceedingly rare. Note that kingdom sumptuary law states
   that “Coronets made before consulting the Star Principal Herald or a
   designated sumptuary deputy will receive no extra consideration. Money,
   time, or materials already invested in a coronet are not arguments in its
   favor. “
   -

   It is YOUR responsibility to know sumptuary law. Do not expect the
   artisan who creates your coronet to have infallible knowledge of sumptuary
   law.
   -

   However, if you ARE a coronet artisan, please ensure that you read and
   understand sumptuary law, and contact me if you have questions.
   -

   Check sumptuary law EVERY TIME. Sumptuary law is part of Kingdom Law,
   which is a living document, subject to frequent change. Don’t assume you
   know what current law is if you haven’t read the law document in a year.
   -

   Remember that circlets, coronets, and crowns are an essential (and fun!)
   part of the pageantry of our shared game. You can help protect that
   pageantry, as well as the power and meaning of our cherished symbols, by
   using them in the ways in which they were intended.

I understand some of these guidelines are a little touchy-feely, so I’ve
added some examples below. These are not comprehensive, but should provide
you with a general sense of what is appropriate and what is not.

While reading through, it is important to remember that heraldry has
meanings. When applied to a coronet, the words “presumptuous” and
“offensive” are not descriptions of the wearer’s intent. A coronet is
presumptuous if a reasonable person could presume from it that the wearer
has rank that he or she does not in fact have. It is offensive if the use
of the symbols in that form could be expected to offend others who do have
that implied rank. It is not made less presumptuous or less offensive
simply because the coronet was designed in ignorance of the common heraldic
meanings.

Also, in the context of sumptuary law, the words “badge”, “arms”, and
“ensign” have specific heraldic meanings that refer to the registered
armory of a person or group. When I use the word “symbol”, that is a more
generic word that refers to any imagery that has a strong association,
through tradition or common usage, with a person or group.

Examples labeled below as “Acceptable” are clearly allowable under
sumptuary law. Those labeled “In Violation” clearly violate sumptuary law.
Everything else lies in a gray area that covers a broad spectrum of
appropriateness or inappropriateness.

Here are some examples:

   -

   Thyra of Black Oak Keep is awarded an AoA, which entitles her to wear a
   metal fillet that does not exceed ½” in width.
   -

      *Acceptable: *Thyra purchases a simple, flat-topped, ¼” wide fillet
      that is decorated with a pretty, etched spiral pattern.
      -

      *Technically not in violation, but may be perceived by some as
      inappropriate: *Thyra commissions a circlet that is 15/32” wide. This
      is technically legal, but the width is so close to the upper end of the
      width that is permissible for her rank that it appears as though she is
      claiming baronial rank.
      -

      *In violation: *Thyra commissions a ¾” wide coronet with Black Stars
      (a star of 5 greater and 5 lesser points) incorporated into the design.
      This design is in violation because it is too wide according to sumptuary
      law, and her rank does not permit her the use of a Black Star, which is
      specifically reserved by sumptuary law to the Crown, the Heirs, former
      Crowns, and current and former Territorial Nobility.
      -

   Several years later, Thyra becomes Queen, rules the kingdom, steps down,
   and is granted a County.
   -

      *Acceptable: *Thyra commissions a County coronet that has an
      embattled upper edge, and is decorated with heraldic roses.
      -

      *Technically not in violation, but may be perceived by some as
      inappropriate: *Thyra commissions an embattled coronet that includes
      a design of alternating Black Stars and full red suns. Thyra is
      specifically entitled to the Black Star, and nothing in the sumptuary law
      specifically restricts her from using the suns. However, this design is
      moderately evocative of the arms of the kingdom and could be perceived as
      presumptuous.
      -

      *Technically not in violation, but will get Thyra in big trouble: *Thyra
      commissions an embattled coronet that includes in its design a Black Star
      in the front, a setting red sun on each side, and the words “Unicus et
      Singularis” (the kingdom motto) on the back. Thyra is
specifically entitled
      to the Black Star and the embattling, and nothing in the sumptuary law
      specifically restricts her from using the other two elements, but this
      design is so evocative of the arms of the kingdom and the Royal
Crowns that
      it is both presumptuous and offensive.
      -

      *In violation: *Thyra commissions a coronet that has an embattled
      upper edge, and is decorated with several Ansteorran Queen’s
Roses (this is
      a Black Star on top of a yellow rose on top of a black rose). This is a
      violation because the Queen’s Rose is reserved by sumptuary law to the
      Queen of Ansteorra, and Thyra, as a Countess, is no longer
entitled to use
      that particular symbol, even though she was allowed to use it
when she was
      Queen.
      -

   A few years later, Thyra moves to Loch Soilleir, and then later, she
   receives the local baronial order. She decides to commission a new coronet
   that incorporates symbols of her local group, as well as of her County.
   -

      *Acceptable: *Thyra commissions a coronet that includes
      embattlements, as well as gemstones in green and white, the colors of her
      local group.
      -

      *Technically not in violation, but will get Thyra in big trouble: *Thyra
      commissions a coronet that is shaped like a serpent with its tail in its
      mouth. This is not specifically forbidden by sumptuary law, but it is so
      evocative of the actual coronets of the territorial nobles of her group
      that it is both presumptuous and offensive.
      -

      *In violation: *Thyra commissions a coronet that includes
      embattlements and the badge of the baronial service order. This is a
      violation because even though she is entitled to wear the badge of the
      order in other forms (on a medallion, for instance), kingdom
sumptuary law
      reserves the use of registered badges, ensigns, and arms of the barony on
      coronets to the territorial nobility alone.
      -

   Thyra becomes Baroness of Loch Soilleir (don’t worry – not going to
   happen!).
   -

      *Acceptable: *For her tenure as Baroness, Thyra commissions a new
      territorial baronial coronet that includes the complete
registered arms of
      the barony.
      -

      *In violation: *Thyra commissions a new territorial baronial coronet
      that includes the complete registered arms of the barony, along with her
      personal arms. This design is in violation even if Thyra pays for the
      coronet herself, instead of using group funds. Per kingdom sumptuary law,
      “A baronial coronet should not have the personal insignia of the baron or
      baroness, since it is not a personal coronet, but one that represents the
      barony.”
      -

   Thyra steps down as Baroness of Loch Soilleir and decides to commission
   a new coronet that reflects her new court barony rank.
   -

      *Acceptable: *Thyra can no longer wear the Territorial baronial
      coronet, so she commissions a new one that includes embattlements (which
      she is entitled to as a Countess), her personal badge,  and a Black
      Star (which she is entitled to both as a Countess and as a former
      Territorial noble).
      -

      *Technically not in violation, but may be perceived by some as
      inappropriate: *Thyra commissions a personal coronet that includes
      her personal badge and a solid green serpent with its own tail in its
      mouth. This is not a badge that is registered to the barony, but it is
      moderately evocative of the baronial arms and coronet, so it might be
      considered presumptuous.
      -

      *In violation: *Thyra commissions a personal coronet that includes a
      badge that is registered for the use of the populace of the Barony.  This
      is a violation, even though Thyra is entitled to wear the
populace badge in
      other forms (on a tabard, for instance) because kingdom sumptuary law
      reserves the use of registered badges, ensigns, and arms of the barony on
      coronets to the territorial nobility alone.

Please note that the purpose of this post is only to increase awareness and
understanding of sumptuary law amongst the populace at large, not to single
out any particular coronets already in use. If I believe that a coronet
already in use violates kingdom sumptuary law, I will contact the owner
and/or artisan directly and privately so that we can work together to come
up with a solution.

If you have made it as far as the end of this letter, I thank you for your
patience and indulgence. Feel free to contact me with questions and
concerns.

Regards,

Sara

-- 
Sara Penrose
Star Principal Herald
Ansteorra
http://heraldry.ansteorra.org/