ARCH - APD requirements
eadric at scabrewer.com
Fri Apr 27 10:05:21 PDT 2001
"Dewart, Charles R. --G3 Contractor (Anteon Corp)"
> If I can finish them tonight, I'll have some of my wood arrows with a APD
> that is being proposed and should pass at Elfsea's event tomorrow. I know
> one thing, I'm not going to cut 2,000 of these things by hand. Just the few
> I did sucked. While it can be done with a miter box and saw, you'll not
> want to do many that way.
For those who dunno what Gilli is talking about take a look at:
This design shows a lot of promise. Some highlights.
1. Should satisfy the SEM
2. Actually CHEAPER to produce than a fletched arrow
3. No special tools needed, not even a flecthing jig
4. Should work in crossbows with little modification
required to the crossbows.
5. Reports are that they actually fly BETTER than fletched
arrows except in heavy winds. It seems that the tube acts
as a ring airfoil.
There are lot of people across the known world doing testing. Some of the
things we need to determine are:
1. Best method of attachment to shaft.
2. Best length and diameter of tube.
3. Best angle for front end of tube.
If you want to get the Sil-O-Flex tubing you can gett it at Lowes. The 5'
sticks are often with the Black Iron pipe rather than the plastic pipe.
That makes sense right?
Anyway here are some part numbers.
Lowes Item # Description Price
--------------- ----------------------------- ------
24275 1", 160 PSI, 5' stick $2.97
24197 1", 160 PSI, 100' roll $24
24198 1", 160 PSI, 200' roll $72
24172 1.25", 100 PSI, 100' roll $26
The 1" 160# PSI pipe is TOUGH and actually provides you with a slighter
larger than 1.25" profile. The ID is barely over 1" and the walls are .125"
giving you an overall cross section of greater than 1.25".
There are other manufacturers of this plastic pipe but what you really want
to look for is plastic pipe that meets ASTM D 2239 standards. For more
details on the genuine Sil-O-Flex brand look at
You can gut the stuff with a mitre box ($5 at Lowes) and saw. I have a
clamping mitre box and a good sharp saw and it cuts easy. It is less trouble
than UHMW. Chop saws would also work nice and I cut is on my radial arm saw
with a fine toothed blade with no effort.
I have some concerns that we should encourage a 45 degree angle on the front
of the tube unless someone can point out a reason not to. Baroness Ascelyn
of Bonwicke our Western Region Archery Marshal reported that a while back
Baron Vallust shot one of these while in the Outlands and the APD smacked and
injured his finger on the bow hand at it passed the riser. I have done some
testing and I feel that with a 45 degree angle the risk seems to be reduced
as the APD should slide past the hand. However, with no front angle or a
lesser one I think the risk is increased.
I made some with a 22.5 degree angle and purposely nocked them backwards,
drew and released them and they smacked the riser pretty hard (I was smart
enough to get my hand out of the way). A 45 degree angle slipped past the
riser but ofcourse the shot was deflected off target.
Lord Eadric Anstapa
Coastal Regional Archery Marshal, Ansteorra
eadric at scabrewer.com
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