[Ansteorra-missile] UHMW Heads on Fiberglass Combat Arrows

[meggiddo at netzero.net]

Thanks for the information on the 1 1/2 inch hole saw.

Michael Fray

Bob Dewart wrote:
> 
> To make life a little easier, you don't have to make a cutter for the foam.
> Get a 1 1/2 inch hole saw.  This will have the same 1 3/8 inside diameter.
> Leave the drill bit part in.  Set the drill to reverse.  After about three
> discs the inside of the hole saw will fill up.  Then the little discs will
> just fall off when cut.  However, sometimes they'll go aways when they do.
> 
> Gilli
> Shoot more arrows.  You're bound to hit something.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <meggiddo at netzero.net>
> To: <ansteorra-missile at ansteorra.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 10:00 PM
> Subject: [Ansteorra-missile] UHMW Heads on Fiberglass Combat Arrows
> 
> > I have the instructions below saved on my computer. They should help
> > anyone who is looking at making UHMW combat heads. Need to be aware this
> > was before the use of APD's. With this in mind, ignore any mention of
> > the words vanes or flatting.
> >
> > In additional - need to round off the edges of the UHMW blunt so that
> > there is no sharp edges.
> >
> > Hope this helps.
> >
> >
> > Michael Fray
> > Unit Combat Artillery for the Condottieri
> >
> >
> > Academy of the Bow - A.S. XXXVI
> >
> > UHMW Heads on Fiberglass Combat Arrows
> > by: Wilim Penbras ap Gurgeneu
> >
> > Materials
> > 5/4 inch UHMW rod
> > (Ultra High Molecular Weight)
> > 1/4 inch fiberglass rod
> > Closed cell foam
> > Nocks
> > Plastic vanes
> > Strapping tape
> > Duct tape
> > Glue
> >
> > Equipment
> > Saw (for UHMW and fiberglass rods)
> > Drill with 1/4 inch bit
> > Scissors
> > Fletching jig
> > Taper tool (pencil sharpener)
> > 5/4 or 1 3/8 inch inside diameter pipe
> > File
> > Router (Optional)
> >
> > Preparation Stage
> > Before you can build your combat arrows, you must first turn the raw
> > materials into the arrow head components. This will require that you
> > first cut the UHMW rods, closed cell foam, and fiberglass rods to the
> > correct dimensions.
> >
> > UHMW Preparation
> > The Ultra High Molecular Weight rod (hereafter called UHMW) combined
> > with the closed cell foam (hereafter called CCF) will become your combat
> > blunt. The UHMW comes in various lengths, but is most commonly found in
> > five foot sections. Set up a jig or miter gauge on your saw to cut at a
> > ninety degree angle. Cut the length of UHMW into as many one inch long
> > pieces as possible. The final result
> > should be about sixty pieces that are 1 1/4 inch in diameter and one
> > inch long.
> > If you have a router, it is possible and desirable to round the edges
> > with a 1/4 inch or 1/8 inch rounding bit before each cross cut so the
> > leading edge of the arrow present no rough edges. The UHMW isn't quite a
> > blunt yet. You need to prepare a hole to insert the Fiberglass shaft
> > into. If you have a drill press, set the guard so the hole is centered
> > on a point 5/8 of an inch from the edge.
> > This should place the hole in the center of the UHMW. Otherwise you can
> > use an empty film cannister to mark the center of the section. Poke a
> > whole in the center of the canister, place this over the UHMW, and use a
> > marker to mark the center. Then drill a whole in the center of the flat
> > side of the UHMW to
> > a depth of 1/2 inch.
> >
> > Closed Cell Foam (CCF) Padding
> > To make the padding, you need to cut your closed cell foam into a set of
> > circles of the correct diameter. If you rounded the edges of your UHMW
> > blunts, then you will need to prepare a cutter of 1 1/4 inch inside
> > diameter. If you did not round the edges, then instead prepare a cutter
> > of 1 3/8 inch inside
> > diameter. To make your cutter, use the file to sharpen the edges of one
> > end of the pipe. Once you have prepared your cutter from the pipe, use
> > it like a cookie cutter to cut out pieces of foam to the correct
> > diameter. If you did not round the edges of the UHMW, the extra 1/8 inch
> > of foam on the larger pieces
> > of foam can bend over and around the rough edge of the UHWM. Cut out as
> > many of these as you will need, two or three for each arrow head.
> >
> > Precutting Shafts
> > Next, make that fiberglass into arrow shafts. The maximum permitted draw
> > length is 28 inches, so your shafts should be 28 inches, plus an extra
> > half inch to embed in the UHMW. Therefore, cut the shafts to 28.5 inches
> > in length. Fiberglass and UHMW can be hazardous to your lungs. So when
> > cutting or removing them, remember to wear a face mask that will filter
> > out the minute particles of
> > fiberglass and plastic.
> >
> > Construction Stage
> > Once the raw materials are converted into their respective components,
> > you can combine them into the actual arrow heads.
> >
> > Nocking and Fletching
> > Taper the nock end of the shaft. These are fiberglass so it is
> > unimportant which end you use. Nor do you need concern yourself with
> > lining up the nock with the grain. Just take a standard taper tool or
> > pencil sharpener to one end and taper it. A healthy dose of arrow glue
> > will hold the nock on. Once the
> > nocks have dried, sand the last five inches or so with a piece of 200
> > grit sandpaper. Don't forget your mask. Then use your jig to fletch the
> > shaft.
> >
> > Applying the Blunt
> > Insert the shaft into the UHMW head. There is debate concerning how much
> > this helps, but I recommend that you use a little glue in the hole to
> > help keep the head on the shaft. At this stage, cut two lengths of
> > strapping tape, each about eight inches long. Take two or three pieces
> > of the closed cell foam disks and position them over the end of the
> > blunt. Secure them with two pieces of strapping tape crossed over the
> > end. This foam should be thick enough to provide an inch of progressive
> > give.  If it does not, add another layer of foam.
> >
> > Finishing Touches
> > The final things to be done are as follows:
> > Wrap the length of the shaft in strapping or electrical tape.
> > Wrap the blunt head in duct tape.
> > Label the arrows with your name and your kingdom.
> >
> > Things to Check
> > The final draw length should be, at most, 28 inches from the nock to the
> > back of the blunt. There should be sufficient compression. There should
> > always be at least two fletches on an arrow. The nock and blunt should
> > be checked to make sure they cannot be removed from the shaft.
> >
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