HERB - Re: Soda ash problem??

Sheron Buchele/Curtis Rowland foxryde at verinet.com
Tue Nov 24 15:14:25 PST 1998


At 05:30 PM 11/24/98 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 11/24/98 9:36:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, mikel at pdq.net
>writes:
>
><< 
>  How do you take care of the soda ash that forms on the bars?  If you are
> giving them as gifts the ash makes the bars not quite as appealing.
>  >>
I have really enjoyed the soap chat and look forward to using the single
bar recipes.  I don't know why I never thought about just making a bar to
try something new!

In haste as the Christmas rush is deeply upon our business (we hope to have
a web page soon with all our products and such - I'll let the list know
when) but I needed to comment on soda ash on the soap.

I make soap professionally - around 15 to 20 - 3 pound batches per month.
I had a lot of trouble with ashing on soap when I used shortening and tap
water.  But it varied from time to time - as I think Jasmine pointed out,
the oil blend of shortening changes.  I now use about 1/2 cup of shortening
in 4 cups of oils and I also use about a tablespoon of beeswax per batch.
I also superfat all of my soaps.  I also started using RO water to make
soap about the same time.  I don't know which made the difference and don't
have the time to find out.  But now, I never have any problem with ash.
Even my cinnamon soap which is a very deep brown color stays clear (and I
dispaired for over a year on this soap)!

I find that if the bar has "ashed" it will also sweat badly if stored
plastic.  I put my soap in plastic shoe boxes to store and travel.  When at
home, I turn the lid upside down to let the soap "breathe".   Sweating soap
ruins labels so I was very motivated to get rid of the powdery residue.

Have a wonderful Thanksgiving!

Baroness Leonora
Outlands
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