HERB - Re: breastfeeding

[Katherine Blackthorne]

The ubiquitous "Rennaissance Bodice" is basically a simplified vest.  fThe 
ones I make have four seams:  one under each arm (joining front to back), 
and one over each arm (joining the "strap").  I've never used a commercial 
pattern for this.  I make a pattern for each "customer" using a short list 
of measurements:  Waist (-2"), Bust (-2"), Nape to Waist (be generous here), 
and "Pit" to waist (this is the under-arm measurement -- be sure to start 
low enough that it won't "bind" under your arm).

Divide your "working" waist & bust measurements by 4, rounding to the 
nearest whole number.  (we'll call this number W for your waist and B for 
your bust.)

Fold your fabric in half.  Near the bottom, put a chalk mark that is W 
inches from the fold.  Draw a line to the fold.  From this point, measure 
"up" the distance of your "pit to waist" measurement.  Now measure out B 
inches, and make another mark.  Draw a straight line connecting your "waist" 
and "bust" marks.  Draw an arm-hole curve (using a dressmaker's curve or 
another shirt as a guide) up from the "bust" mark.  (Extend it a long way -- 
if the "straps" are too long, they can be cut down when you cut it out.)  
Measure "up" the fold the Distance of your "nape to waist" measurement.  
Eyeball it, and see where you want your neckline to come.  (3" down?  4"?  a 
hand length?  Draw a line, then curve it up into the "strap".  (This makes a 
little more sense when you have it drawn in front of you.)

Now for the fronts.

For this part, I like to use the selveges for the front edge, if possible.
Line up your selveges together, so your fabric is 2 layers thick.  A little 
ways up from the bottom, put a chalk mark that is W inches from the fold.  
Draw a line to the fold.  From this point, measure "up" the distance of your 
"pit to waist" measurement.  Now measure out B inches, and make another 
mark.  Decide how much (if any) of a "point" you want the front of your 
bodice to have (the longer the point, the more "slimming" the effect), make 
a mark that many inches below your "waist" line.  Draw a curve from your "W" 
mark to the point you made this last mark.  At your "B" mark, draw the front 
of the armhole.  At the "front" edges of your fabrick, go up at least a 
handspan from the "bust" line, and draw the curve for the front of your 
bodice, curving up for the "straps".

Sew up the under-arm seams.  Sew the "straps" together.  Sew boning along 
the front "edges".  Next to the boning, put your grommets.  (Boning is 
important -- without it, the lacing will just cause the fabric to "pucker" 
vertically -- which gets very uncomfortable.  Also, the more grommets, the 
easier to lace, the more support, and the less "pucker".

To wear, put on your loose shift, and lace up, adjusting your breasts so 
they're comfortable.  If you lace from bottom to top, it becomes very easy 
to unlace a bit and lift one (at a time!) out.  Heck, depending how low-cut 
you make the front and how you arrange yourself inside, you may not have to 
unlace very far at all!

While I have seen some women wear this style as a very "risque" look, the 
same bodice can often become quite modest just by not pulling your breasts 
up as high when you lace.

By the way, unlike the modern look, your breasts will be squished together, 
not pulled apart with this garment.  If you try to separate them (like for a 
modern bra) you will never have a good-fitting garment, it will not support 
you, and will wonder why the rest of us love them so much!


--Katherine

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