PE - Pennsic Ger Accident Picture

SUNJAN sunjan at
Fri Aug 25 00:35:48 PDT 2000

----- Original Message -----
From: Thumpa <thumpa at>
To: <periodencampments at>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 6:03 PM
Subject: Re: PE - Pennsic Ger Accident Picture

>   I have been having trouble with my yurt project snapping as I pull the
> hannas out to set them up.  I choose a poor wood source.  Has anyone used
> pvc for thier hannas?  Do y'all think it would bow to much when the weight
> of the roof was applied or just not look as good as wood?  Im begining to
> think a few weeks of extra shifts so I can buy one is a better idea but i
> love the idea of working on this myself.

Definitely make it yourself - it is far more rewarding.........
It is even MORE rewarding to have it look as Period as possible, PLEASE don't
use the PVC...............

There is no need to use plastic, the right wood is far better. Everywhere east
of An Tir, yurts seem to be made of mostly the same type of wood - thin but wide
lathes. I use 3/4" x 3/4" pieces for both the wall lattice pieces AND the roof
poles (with the exception of the 3 larger round hardwood poles that actually
lift the ring during setup).

Start with a reasonably clear piece of good old common 1" x 4" x 8' (which of
course REALLY measures 3/4" x 3-1/2"), available at EVERY lumber and hardware
store in the western U.S. and Canada. Rip on a table saw to 3/4" wide, you will
get 4 pieces, plus a shaving off the last one (great kindling). Sort the huge
pile into roof poles and wall pieces - straight, knots O.K. are for roof; curved
or ones with 'wane' (where the bark was, not a 90 degree edge), or thinner
pieces will be fine for wall lattice. Buy more wood than you think you need,
this type of lumber is cheap. Estimate 2.5 useable pieces out of each board.
Divide the number of wall lattice pieces (and roof poles, if you trust me to say
they work.......) by 2.5, buy at least that many 1" x 4"s. My door frames are
made out of the same lumber, just cut to length and not ripped into pieces. The
top and bottom door beams are also made from built-up 1" x 4"s. The canvas costs
more than the frame does to buy, but the wood finishing is the time-consuming
part. If you have a planer, it makes short work of smoothing the saw marks off
of a couple hundred sticks..........

I use leather knots, not rivets, to tie my lattice together. If you don't tie so
tightly that the wood squeaks when it folds up (I tied the first couple way too
tight......), then it will flex and 'give' when it is being muscled around. It
will also allow you to 'roll' the entire wall lattice into a 'log' small enough
to put your arms around and clasp your hands. Tie the roll with your tension
band and never worry about leaving THAT very important piece at home!

I have built more than 15 yurts in this way, and have only broken a couple of
wall lattice pieces when impatiently trying to force them into the door frame.
My first yurt is still in use, although by a new owner. It goes to 5-10 events a
year, and is over 10 years old. The only reason it has had several lattice
pieces replaced over the years is I overbuilt my first one - everyone
does.........It was made from 1" x 2" and was to rigid to roll up properly.

More questions?
Next problem?
Fire away!

Assimilation (and Yurt....) Laurel

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