[Ravensfort] showers / Re: [rfofficers] Gundy's Find

Hoffpauir, David ENV_DRH at SHSU.EDU
Mon Oct 13 11:16:15 PDT 2008


>From the Farm Boy Corner...

Pretty much every dairy barn on the planet is sheathed in tin.  If you want to paint it, that's fine, but I'd say don't bother.  Mounds of wet pine straw (like you'd see on a roof) is tin's worst enemy here abouts.  Even with mounds of wet pine straw, it would be 15 years before the annealing even starts to oxidize...  (judging from my often neglected shed roof).  More likely we'd want to paint to eliminate reflectance.

Weight is going to be a factor if we  replace with wood or plastic.  Those mugs were heavy, heavy as they were and coverage was only to knee level.  More wood means more weight.  There are some heavy gauge plastic corrugated sheathing products out there, but I don't know anything about it...

Strength in tin barns comes from the structure it is attached to.  It can take a beating if the lathing is tough. I'd say at least four horizontal, treated 2x4's per side (that's about 2 ft o.c.).  Tin screws....  Maybe another scabbed on backer board to cover any screw threads.

I don't agree with the wind assessment.  Yeah nail heads can rip through, but what causes that to happen is loose, rattley tin, so back to the lathing.  Good lathing and you won't have any loose tin.

Durability is pretty good on higher gauge metal.  Something like V-groove from Meuller's would be best, but will be more expensive.  V-groove is mostly flat, so it doesn't dent so easily as the corrugated sheets.

Thinner stuff will dent, but probability is in our favor.  With two-three events per year, there just won't be that many human-to-shower interactions.  More likely it will get kicked by  cow or have a tree fall on it.  Even if it does get dented, so what?  What's important is that nobody can see yer monkey.

What's more, we are more likely to be able to scrounge tin over marine grade plywood.  So there's a chance we can fix the showers for pretty much nothing.

dsd


From: ravensfort-bounces at lists.ansteorra.org [mailto:ravensfort-bounces at lists.ansteorra.org] On Behalf Of byzytym
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 12:00 PM
To: SF Tester
Cc: A Kindness Of Ravens
Subject: Re: [Ravensfort] showers / Re: [rfofficers] Gundy's Find

We already have the metal frames and wood floors.  We are looking to replace the walls.

I believe that painted metal will last longer than you are letting on and I can't imagine metal that "wind would shred... pretty quick", but I will give you that thin metal will dent easily.
If wood floating studs are used, they should be light weight and not the 2x6 used in the past.  That certainly would help prevent the cracking when moved after a few years in the sun.  We have had water barrels that have become brittle and cracked.

Does anyone else have input ?  The more suggestions, the better.

In service,
V NV



----- Original Message -----
From: SF Tester<mailto:sftester2 at gmail.com>
To: byzytym<mailto:byzytym at att.net>
Cc: A Kindness Of Ravens<mailto:ravensfort at lists.ansteorra.org>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 11:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Ravensfort] showers / Re: [rfofficers] Gundy's Find

On Sun, Oct 12, 2008 at 10:44 PM, byzytym <byzytym at att.net<mailto:byzytym at att.net>> wrote:
Good info.
I think you are going too tick on the metal though.  I'm talking about thin and light.

The problem with thin metal is that it dents, fasteners rip through, and it rusts through way faster than you'd think. Think about how thick a 50 gallon drum is and how quickly they rot at the site.

Ok, grab your latest Quoth. Open the cover, 1st, and 2nd pages. Those 3 pages combined are about .010". 4x8 feet of that, in steel, would be somewhere around 13 pounds, but would last a few months. Wind would shred it pretty quick.

Can you price the sheets of the stuff you are talking about and see if larger sheets are available ?  I'm guessing that have the right UV inhibitor or gelcoat will cost more ??

I'll see what I can dig up. I need to go find some stuff anyway. Don't really need the UV inhibitor if we paint it. House paint (at least the half decent stuff) has it.

You will have to spell out the UHMW.  Again, those of us that do not use the terms every day do not know what the hell you are talkin' 'bout.

Didn't spell that one because it's long and multisyllable grunts aren't my bag ;)

Ultra-high molecular weight. Same stuff pickle barrels are made of. Nothing short of a miracle will keep paint attached more than a nanosecond, but it's tough stuff.

Another possibility is Tyvek. It's something like paper, but won't tear. If we came up with the right method to attach it, it may work out since it's cheap enough to replace it every couple of years.

If I was making the decisions, I would weld a frame out of 2" square tubing, then mount FRP or ABS panels on floating studs so the framework can move some without stressing the walls. Throw in some cedar slats for a floor and it'll last longer than me (and I'm fairly well pickled after close to 2 decades in Swein camp :P)
--
Gundy
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