SC - Polish wafer recipe (long)

[Stefan li Rous]

Kerri asked about the wafer recipe I mentioned in the new Polish cookbook:
> Would you please post the wafer recipe? I've got one more authentic recipe and
> one modern one left to try and I'd like more authentic ones.

Here it is. It took me a while to scan and convert it. Hope it comes through
ok. I have also included the comments that were with the recipe. As mentioned
in my earlier message neither the original recipe nor translation str given.

Now to order a pizzle iron so I can try this and the other wafer recipes
I have.

Stefan
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>From “Food and Deink in Medieval Poland” by Maria 
Dembinska. Revised and Adapted by William Woys Weaver. 
University of Pennsylvania Press 1999.

Saffron Wafers (Oplatki Szafranowe) 

Saffron was more expensive in Gdansk than in Cracow or 
Lvov during the Middle Ages, which suggests that distance 
from market source played a key role in determining the 
cost of such imported goods. A large portion of Polish 
saffron appears to have come from regions bordering the 
Black Sea where saffron originated, via Genoese middlemen. 
Its use in Polish cookery was a mark of high status, so it 
may seem contradictory that it also was commonly used in 
foods associated with fasting. Yet saffron wafers were 
served at the Polish court during meatless days or at the 
end of the meal with various confections and Malvasia wine.

Because they also contained sugar, the wafers were 
generally made by specialized confectioners and were 
therefore not only sweet but also expensive. Part of the 
expense (aside from the saffron and sugar) was high-quality 
flour, which had to be farina alba cribrata - the finest 
sort. Another reason for the cost was manufacture, for the 
art of wafer making is a distinct craft unto itself, and 
rather tedious. In spite of this, a good wafer baker was 
said to produce about one thousand wafers a day. Indeed, it 
was sometimes a specialty of nunneries or monasteries, 
which derived income from the sale of such goods.

Wafers were made with irons ornamented with various 
patterns that were impressed into the surface of the wafer 
as it baked. Polish irons were normally round, although 
rectangular North German and Dutch types were also used in 
Gdansk and Pomerania.(6)  Metal wafer irons are mentioned 
in several medieval sources and on occasion they are 
depicted, but none have survived intact. The images were 
generally religious, and an especially good wafer maker 
would have several sets of irons on hand to meet the demand 
of funerals, weddings, and special religious feasts, such 
as Easter or Christmas, For everyday use, the royal court 
probably served wafers impressed with the royal coat of 
arms, or the coat of arms of a special guest if the 
intention was to flatter or impress.

Since sugar absorbs and amplifies flavors, wafers must be 
made over a smokeless heat source, the most common being a 
charcoal stove. This technique requires considerable 
practice because the iron must be turned constantly to keep 
both halves evenly heated. The iron must be also kept hot 
while it is being refilled with wafer batter Last, the 
wafers must be trimmed while they are hot and soft and 
still in the iron; once cool, they become brittle and break 
easily. All of this implies speed and a steady hand with a 
very sharp knife. Having tested this recipe with a wafer 
iron from the 1500s, I can report that total baking time 
per wafer should be about 6 minutes, or 3
minutes per side, depending on the type of metal from which 
the iron is 
is made (there are several alloys) and its thickness. 
Accomplished wafer bakers could probably do this in half 
the time; I was somewhat restrained by the cautious use of 
antique equipment.

1 cup (250 g) double sifted pastry flour

1 cup (250 g) superfine sugar (white sugar ground to a fine 
powder, called bar sugar in the United States)

1/4 teaspoon finely ground saffron

4 egg whites

2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 ml) rosewater

poppy seed oil

Yield: About 30 wafers, depending on the size of the iron


Before assembling the ingredients, which should be at room 
temperature, light a charcoal grill or old-style charcoal 
stove so that the coals have a good 30 minutes to heat and 
reduce to embers. Do not use self-lighting charcoal, since 
this will give the wafers a burned petroleum flavor.

Sift together the flour, sugar and saffron three 
times. Whisk the egg whites until they are stiff and form 
peaks, then fold them into the dry ingredients. Moisten 
with rose water so that it forms a thick batter.

Heat both sides of the wafer iron (or a pizzelle 
iron) over the charcoal stove or grill. When evenly hot on 
both sides, open the iron and grease it liberally. Put some 
of the batter on one side and let it spread. Slowly close 
up the iron but do not press hard, just enough to force the 
batter out to the edges. Turn the iron over the coals often 
until the batter begins to bubble around the edges, then 
press tightly and hold it firmly together, turning the iron 
several times (this will caramelize the sugar and cause the 
wafer to stiffen). Batter that has run out of the edges can 
now be trimmed off neatly with a very sharp knife. Once the 
wafer tests done, the iron can be opened and the wafer 
removed with the help of a knife. Repeat until all the 
batter is used. Perfectly made wafers will bake paper-thin 
and turn out a golden fawn color. Once cool, they can be 
stored several months in airtight containers.

<end>
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