SC - off topic - cooking experience

[cclark@vicon.net]

Time for another at length plant pontification by
Akim (who, like sumac, also causes some people
rashes).

Derivation of the family name is Rhus (Greek) 
mentioned by Dioscordies to grow in stony mountain 
places, as far as Spain but also in the Apennies and 
Pontus ranges in Italy.  It was called Sumacho in 
Italian.  The Arabians called it Sumach.  Spanish was
Sumagre; Dutch Smack or Sumach and English also
Sumach, Coriars Sumach and Leather Sumach.
It is mentioned in Apicius under "Rhus", a shrub
called SUMACH, seed of which is used instead of salt.

All sumachs (sumacs) are members of the 
Anacardiaceae family, all of which have some
common links which are related poisons.  However,
toxicity varies from very high to very low, the 
lowest, in which common sumac falls, is an irritant
only to hyper-sensitive individuals.   Included in this
family are cashews, mangoes and pistachios which,
in their marketed state are heavenly, but in their raw
state can cause severe allergic reactions.  You see,
the toxin relationship varies with the treatment of the
food item.  In the genus Rhus, the specific plants which 
are very toxic are Rhus radicans (poison ivy), Rhus 
toxicodendron (poison oak) and Rhus vernix (poison sumac).
The most virulent  is poison sumac; any contact with any
part of the plant can cause severe dermatitis.  The degree 
of reaction to any of these toxins varies with the exposure
and the individual's sensitivity.  Many persons claim they are
not allergic to these plants.  Not true.  These toxins are a
cumlative poison; eventually a threshhold is reached and a
severe dermatitis will result.

On Thu, 23 Dec 1999 12:15:22 -0600
"Decker, Terry D. (Bear) writes:

>Poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac may be
>considered genus Rhus, but are often placed in genus 
>Toxicodendron, due their containing urushiol.  The most 
>common of these plants is T. radicans (poison ivy).  Poison 
>sumac is usually used to denote T. vernix.

Of late, botonists have been reshuffling plant names to
confuse laymen and assure their jobs are secure as
ultimate authorities.  (Just joking Bear!)  So the poisonous
species may be listed under different Latin names when
 you search for information on them in newer publications.  

Two principal European species are mentioned in Gerard.  
Wilde or Myrtle Sumach (Rhus myrtifolia) is native to the 
mediterranean region and  is sparse fruiting.  This is likely the 
Middle Eastern sumak as it was listed as growing in Syria 
by Archigenes in Galen (the 8th book).  The seed is a small,
hard red berry.  Rhus myrtifolia was mainly used a kind of
mouth freshening chewing gum produced by brusing the 
trunk of the tree.  It was commonly used (and still is) around 
the mediterannean.  It was atributed that the gum also  
stopped toothaches.   Rhus coriaria or Coriar Sumach is 
very much similar to the main 3 American species in 
appearance and it also has the very large clusters of bright 
red, acidic berries in themiddle of summer as the American 
natives.  The old Latin for this plant is Rhus culinaria or 
Meat Sumach.  Principal culinary use of the berries or 
seeds was in making sharp flavoured sauces for meats 
according to Gerard.  It was also applied to meats as a 
powdered spice or Latin Rhus obsoniorum or Sauce 
Sumach.   There were also (ineffectual) medical uses for
the leaves of both plants as well as a black hair dye made 
from a decoction of the leaves.

There are no poisonous species of Rhus native to 
Europe, Africa or asia minor.  These peoples have been 
spared the horrible itch of the 3 poisonous North American 
species.  The Asian representative of the genus is Rhus 
verniciflua, Chinese rhus, which is used to make furniture
lacquers and shares a high toxicity with poison ivy, oak and 
sumac.  It has no culinary uses that I know of. 

On Thu, 23 Dec 1999 09:13:07 -0800
From: "David Dendy" (Francesco) writes:

>Puck asked about sumac:
>Is there someplace I can get this on the web?  Are
>there acceptable substitutes?  What does Sumac do for 
>this dish?

Francesco answers:
>We sell sumac from our web-site (see URL below). It is a 
>souring agent, just as lemon juice, for example, is (although 
>the flavour is very different).

The following is from the URL listing in the spice catalog:
       0480 SUMAC BERRIES
       "The tart red powder of these berries is an essential 
        'souring agent' in Middle Eastern cookery, used in place 
         of vinegar or lemon. Also makes a refreshing summer 
         drink. (N.B. - this is not the same as the North American 
         wild sumac, some varieties of which are poisonous.)"
 
As to the use if the ground seeds of the myrtle sumac with 
other herbs in the Middle East (sumak), the arabic peoples 
were historically the middlemen in the oriental spice trade 
to period Europe.  Many fruits and vegetables also reached 
Europe through the arabic region (bananas, limes, oranges, 
lemons, etc.).  The spread of the sumac as a spice in
the Middle Eastern cultures probably was because they
are accustomed to sun drying so many plants and using them
in their cuisine uniquely (rather like their use of powered 
dried limes for example).  

Europeans also were much taken with the 
spectacular red fruits and fall foliage of the American 
(nonpoisonous) sumachs and planted them in gardens 
extensively.  These species are pretty much natualized in the
wild there now.  .  From my experience in using wild staghorn 
sumach (the most common species in my area), the taste 
and properties, "a tart red powder" seems identical to that 
of the arabic cuisine.   Here in the South, we have always 
used the red berries to make a pink lemonade substitute, 
particularly in rural areas. It is an important and preservable 
source of vitamin C.

A shared characteristic of Rhus species is the production 
of clusters of berry-like fruit, of which all species (even the 
poisonous) are very important food for wildlife, particularly
birds, which do not seem affected by the toxins.   It is 
extremely easy to safely gather sumac berries for use.  All
of the poisonous varieties have white berries.   All of the safe 
sumacs have very red or orange-red berries.  Simple, huh?  
When ripe, these berries are covered with acidic red hairs, 
rather velvet-like in appearance.  Collect the entire cluster 
before the rains wash most of this red covering away.  Rub 
gently to bruise the berries surface, but do not strip them 
from the cluster.  Soak for 10-15 minutes in COLD water.  
Remove the clusters and filter the pink water through 
cheesecloth or a coffe filter. Sugar to taste.  Chill and 
serve like lemonade.

Here are the American species that can be used for 
lemonade or dried as a spice like the Arabic version:  

Staghorn Sumach (Rhus typhina) up to 30' in height, 
grows from  Minn. s Ontario, e Quebec, Nova Scotia, south 
to ne Iowa, Ill,, cen. Tenn, n Ga, to Md..  Fruits in June to
September. This is the species most common in Europe 
today.

Flameleaf Sumac (Rhus copallina), aka Winged or Dwarf 
Sumac 4'-10' in height.  Found in upland fields and openings  
from e Kans., cen Wisc., s. Mich., se NY, s Maine, and south
 to e TX and FL.  Fruits in August to October.

Smooth Sumac (Rhus glabra) grows 10-20 feet in height.  
Found in e Plains states to s Canada, all of the midwest \
states, n e to same area as R copallina and south to 
appalachian range to central Miss, Ala. and Ga, w SC and 
NC.  Fruits June to October.

Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica)  mounding 6'-12' high. 
Found in  TX and central Plains and SE plateau regions of
Ala, Tenn, Ga,, Ky into s Ohio. , also cent. SC, NC, Va, WV,i
nto s Penn., e into w and e NY..  Berries are dark wine red 
and globular.  Fruits July -September.  Leaves resemble
poison ivy but berries are unmistakable.
 
Desert Sumac (Rhus microphylla), aka Littleleaf Sumac, 
4'-8' in height grows in the Southwest US to n Mexico.  
The fruit is orange red. 

Lemonade Berry (Rhus integrifolia) , 3'-9' evergreen with
 thick, leathery leaves, often used as a hedge.  Range is
coastal southern California.

Sugarbush (Rhus ovata) 8'-15' Santa Barbara County 
to n Baja.  Typical to chapparral environment.  Orange 
berries, grey green leaves folded into "taco shell".

Threeleaf Sumac (Rhus trilobata) aka Lemita, aka
Squawbush, aka Skunkbush (highly exaggerated) to 8'
high.  Range is from Missouri and TX to CA and WA.
Orange-red fruit in July to September.

There are other less common Rhus species but are
very limited in range.   Of all of these, the only new world 
species known in 17th century gardens were the three 
eastern US varieties.  I have no source or record of Native 
Americans utilizing these species nor do I have any data that 
indicates the colonists initially using the berries to make
a beverage.  They probably recognized the American native
sumacs and used them to flavour sauces and meats however.

Sources:  

Gerard, John,  The Herbal or General History of Plants, 1633 
             edition, reprinted unabridged by Dover, 1975. Third Book, 
             chapter 111, pp 1474-1475.
Hightshoe, Gary L., Native Trees, Shrubs and Vines for Urban and
             Rural America, Van Nostrand Reinhold, NY 1988.  pp 318-
              323 & p. 662.
Ottesen, Carole, The Native Plant Primer, Harmony Books,
             NY 1995.  pp. 289-291.
Peterson, Lee Allen, Edible Wild Plants, a Peterson Field Guide,
             Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston, 1977.  pp. 182, 186-87.

Akim Yaroslavich
"No glory comes without pain"

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