SC - Re: Almond Paste and Marzipan
alysk at ix.netcom.com
alysk at ix.netcom.com
Tue Sep 14 16:48:17 PDT 1999
Greetings! I have a hunch that the two terms mean whatever someone _thinks_ they
mean. Early marzipan recipes don't seem to include cooking. I'm probably wrong :-)
but my memory seems to tell me that most period recipes are for "marzipan" or
"marchpane" but are not entitled "almond paste". And, while almond paste is
modernly put under a layer of icing on certain cakes, older recipes called for
"marzipan" under the icing.
I usually think of almond paste as the stuff one can start with to make marzipan,
after adding lots more sugar. Homemade marzipan usually isn't as sweet as
commercial marzipan. Period marzipan called for rosewater, orange juice or orange
flower water. The latter makes a _very_ interesting confection, since the flavor
is not what one would expect from "marzipan". Someone asked about a lack of almond
flavor. Well, with the addition of orange flower water, one would taste more of
that rather than more of almonds. And, I think the same is probably true for
adding rosewater, which is called for in most English, period recipes. Modern
stuff lacks the rosewater or other flavoring ingredient which is (always?) added
in period recipes.
For my own part, I've found that a food processor can make a fairly smooth
marzipan. As someone else noted, the almonds should be processed in small batches.
For me, a pound of almonds is done in three batches. I process one-third and then
put it into a separate bowl. As each third is done, it's put into the bowl. Then
I go back and take a third or even a quarter of the first processing (which contains
sugar and rosewater). That stuff is put into a different bowl. I then go through
the whole process a third time. You can feel the difference in the size of the
ground almonds between your fingers. However, at no point will the stuff get as
finely ground as modern commercial paste which uses many blades and more processing.
I would suppose that if one had a big enough mortar and good muscles, the paste could
be reduced to even further smoothness. Modern blenders don't have quite the same
"action" as a medieval mortar and an hour or more of pounding.
Yes, you had better refrigerate the marzipan or you will eventually grow an intriguing
variety of mold!
Alys Katharine
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