SC - Re: cheese colouring

[Christina van Tets]

>"Aloes" appears to be a corruption of the Old French "aloyeaulx", or
>larks, as this little spitted morsel of stuffed meat was intended to
>resemble a small
> bird, either one stuffed or perhaps undrawn like an ortolan or bunting.
> Still later recipes for the same dish (sometimes ending up as a filling
>for
> pies) refer to the basic stuffed meat roll as "olives".
>> Adamantius
>
>	Yep, I've always heard allows/aloes/olives as rolled "birds", so where
>does this short ribs identity come from?  Anderson's glossary defines
>them thusly: "Alows; corruption of French 'aloyaux', which were short
>ribs; even the dish is a corruption of the original".
>Cindy's glossary doesn't define the term, but she uses it as short ribs
>in the recipe I mentioned, Alows de Beef or de Mutton.  (I'm not picking
>on you Cindy!  These are the only two I've got to hand, and I was just
>noticing the reddish stain on the bottom of both volumes, got to stop
>cooking with it right in the kitchen!)
>
>
>	Christianna



I followed Thomas Austin's notes on this one.

He says in the index/glossary (p. 120):

' Aloes de Roo, 61; Allowes de Mutton, 83; Alows de Beef or de Motoun, 40;
Alowys, 3. See Warner, p. 74, "Alaunder of moton" and "of beef"; Napier, p.
29, "Alander de moton," p. 30, "Alander de beeff." Cotgr., "Aloyau de
boeuf. A short rib of beefe, or the fleshie end of the rib, diuided from
the rest, and rosted." Compare a mutton chop. '

To save you the bother of looking, Aloes de Roo, p. 61, is just a listing
in a menu; Alowys, p. 3, is a listing in the table of contents.

To further confuse the issue, the Napier recipes (A Noble Boke Off Cookry
ffor a Prynce Houssolde..., c. 1467 according to her) read as follows:

"Alander de moton
To mak alander de moton tak y legge of moton and sethe it till it be tender
by it selue and when it is sodene bray the fleshe in a mortair and alay it
with the sam brothe and put ther to pouder of clowes pouder of canelle
colour it with saffron boile it and serue it.

"Alander de beeff
To mak alander de bef, take the clodde of beef and make lesks of a span
longe then tak parsley and hewe it smalle with shepes tallowe and mak
pouder of pepper and canelle meled to gedure and cast ther to salt and
couche one lesche with rawe yolks of egg and rolle up the leske and prik
them close and put them on a broche and rost them and serue them in a good
ceripe."

Alander de moton is boiled mutton, cut from the bone & pounded in a mortar,
then mixed with spices and served.

Alander de beeff is similar to the Harleian MSS versions below, but by no
means identical.  Napier defines leske (an alternate spelling of lesche) as
slice.  Clodde is undefined.


Harleian MS. 4016
78 Allowes de Mutton.  Take faire Mutton of the Buttes, and kutte hit in
[th]e maner of stekes; And [th]en take faire rawe parcelly, and oynons
shred smale, yolkes of eron sodden hard, and mary or suet; hewe all [th]es
smale togidre, and then caste thereto pouder of ginger, and saffron, and
stere hem togidre with thi honde, and ley hem vppe-on [th]e stekes al
abrode; and cast there-to salt, and rolle hem togidre, and put hem on a
spitte, and roste hem till [th]ei be ynogh.

78 Short ribs of Mutton.  Take fair Mutton off the Butts, and cut it in the
manner of steaks; And then take fair raw parsley, and onions shredded
small, yolks of eggs seethed hard, and marrow or suet; hew all these small
together, and then cast thereto powder of ginger, and saffron, and stir
them together with thy hand, and lay them upon the steaks all about; and
cast thereto salt, and roll them together, and put them on a spit, and
roast them till they are enough.

Harleian MS. 279 - Leche Vyaundez
xxx.  Alows de Beef or de Motoun.  Take fayre Bef of [th]e quyschons, &
motoun of [th]e bottes, & kytte in [th]e maner of Stekys; [th]an take raw
Percely, & Oynonys smal y-scredde, & [3]olkys of Eyroun so[th]e hard, &
Marow or swette, & hew alle [th]es to-geder smal; [th]an caste [th]er-on
poudere of Gyngere & Saffroun, & tolle hem to-gederys with [th]in hond, &
lay hem on [th]e Stekys al a-brode, & caste Salt [th]er-to; [th]en rolle
to-gederys, & putte hem on a round spete, & roste hem til [th]ey ben y-now;
[th]an lay hem in a dysshe, & pore [th]er-on Vynegre & a lityl verious, &
pouder Pepir [th]er-on y-now, & Gyngere, & Canelle, & a fewe 3olkys of hard
Eyroun y-kremyd [th]er-on; & serue forth.

30.  Short ribs of Beef or of Mutton.  Take fair Beef off the cushions, &
mutton off the butts, & cut in the manner of Steaks; then take raw Parsley,
& Onions small shredded, & yolks of Eggs seethed hard, & Marrow or suet, &
hew all these together small; then cast thereon powder of Ginger & Saffron,
& rub them together with thine hand, & lay them on the Steaks all about, &
cast Salt thereto; then roll together, & put them on a round spit, & roast
them till they are enough; then lay them in a dish, & pour thereon Vinegar
& a little verjuice, & powdered Pepper thereon enough, & Ginger, &
Cinnamon, & a few yolks of hard Eggs crumbled thereon; & serve forth.


Anderson say: "Alows; corruption of French aloyaux, which were short ribs;
even the dish is a corruption of the original."


Must run.

HTH,


Cindy Renfrow/Sincgiefu
cindy at thousandeggs.com
Author & Publisher of "Take a Thousand Eggs or More, A Collection of 15th
Century Recipes" and "A Sip Through Time, A Collection of Old Brewing
Recipes"
http://www.thousandeggs.com