[Sca-cooks] OT Authenticity Police: dye colours.

[lilinah at earthlink.net]

Tara/Magdalena <tsersen at nni.com> wrote:
>I know full well that there were bright colors in period.  But, there's
>a difference between brights and neons.  The fact that it might be
>physically possible to get "hot pink" like the stuff that 12 year old
>girls wear doesn't mean they did it in period.  Do you know of an
>example of a neon color in illustration or dye recipe?  I don't know
>of any.

"Neon" colors have additional UV reflecting chemicals added, so, no
"day-glo" colors in period. But bright colors, yes. Pastels could be
produced but were undesirable until the 16th century. Pastels
generally came from a spent dye bath and would have been for those
who couldn't afford a fresh dye. Rich saturated colors came from
fresh dye baths with lots of dye material in it. Rich saturated
colors were more expensive and more desirable.

>And, is there any evidence that cocheneal ever made it to Europe in the
>mere century that there was contact?  It's a Mexican bug, so I think
>it's unlikely that it was common, if available at all.  Isn't kermise
>Egyption?

Cochineal is indeed from Central America, but is a scale insect that
is very closely related to kermes and produces a nearly identical
color. It was imported into Europe early in the 16th century and
rather quickly replaced the more expensive kermes in the 16th century.

Kermes is not Egyptian, although kermes dye was used in Egypt. A
number of related scale insects producing similar colors came from
various regions around the Mediterranean. There's even a related
scale insect dye from Poland. The most common source for kermes, as i
understand it, was what is now Turkey.

For those dyeing today, cochineal is a perfectly acceptable
substitute for kermes. Cochineal is expensive enough, and i don't
even know if kermes is even available.

>With what frequency were dyestuff other than madder, woad,
>weld and saffron used?

Saffron was not commonly used in Europe or the Near East as it is not
a fast dye (that is, it fades with light and with washing) and it was
very expensive. Fast colors were desirable in period in Europe and
the Near East.

Weld was the most common source of Near Eastern yellow. There were
several other good yellow sources, although without as rich a color,
such as dyer's broom, which was also used in Europe.

Madder was a common dye and a common trade item throughout Europe and
the Near East. It produces a warm red (an orangey red), while scale
insects produce a cool red (cherry red or magenta). Depending on the
chemical composition of the soil in which it was grown, the color
produced by madder can range from orange to tomato soup red to deep
rich red.

Most dyes require a mordant so that the dye "bites" into or bonds
with the fiber. The most common mordant was alum, another important
trade item throughout Europe and the Near East. It produces a fairly
bright true color. The fiber, yarn, or fabric must be mordanted
before it is dyed, or the dye will wash out or light fade.

There were a few other mordants, but alum was the most common. Iron
saddens, that is greys, the color. Tannins give it a slightly warm
brown cast. Copper based mordants makes it greener, but can cause the
fiber to deteriorate rather quickly. Tin as a mordant didn't come
into use until the 17th century. Chrome, which use is now discouraged
in home dyeing because it is so toxic, wasn't used until much later.
Both tin and chrome produce very bright colors.

Woad was common in Europe. Indigo was common in India and the Near
East. Because indigo produces a stronger color than the same amount
of woad, indigo was imported into Europe as a luxury dye. Indigo and
woad contain similar chemicals and produce similar blues.

Indigo does not require a mordant - in fact, in the dye pot it is
yellow. The cloth turns blue when it is pulled into the air and the
dye oxidizes.

Indigo overdyed with madder produced the dark dull purple wool
tapestry-woven into many Egyptian tunics. So far none of the samples
analyzed are purple with murex. I suspect murex was reserved for more
luxurious cloths.

Indigo overdyed with weld or another strong yellow dye produced the
common greens.

Indigo overdyed with henna produced a dark brown and a black common
in the Near East.

Anahita

Oh, no! I did it again! *Another* non-food post