[Sca-cooks] Cookie Exchange: Medieval Date Cookies
lilinah at earthlink.net
lilinah at earthlink.net
Sat Dec 7 15:40:41 PST 2002
Here's what i'm making for the cooking exchange. I was concerned that
the Vietnamese banana-coconut bread would get moldy before it got to
folks.
This is an adaptation of a Medieval Middle Eastern recipe called
Irnin, which are rather like Mamoul - dough placed in a round mold,
stuffed with nuts or date puree, the "cakes" closed over the filling,
and baked.
Because the thought of making over 120 little dough balls and
stuffing each by hand is just overwhelming to me, I'm simplifying by
spreading a layer of fine semolina dough in a sheet pan, then a layer
of seasoned date puree, and topped with a layer of semolina dough. As
soon as they come out of the oven, i cut them into squares.
Anahita
I. ORIGINAL RECIPES
A. From the Description of Familiar Foods
1. Irnin
Take as much flour as necessary and knead it like khubz al-abazir
dough. When it has risen, take a round wooden mould and make the
dough into thin cakes the size of the mould. Roll them out and put
them in the mould and fill them with sugar and almonds in thirds,
pounded and kneaded with rose-water. Bring their heads together and
seal them tight, then bake them in the bread oven. When they are
slightly browned, remove them. Some people take as much dry dates as
needed and remove the pits and knead them with sesame oil and put
some al-afwah al-tayyiba in them, and they make it a stuffing for
those buns instead of the sugar and bake them.
2. Irnin
Take excellent flour, and on every pound put four ounces of sesame
oil,, and ounce of sesame seeds, and a handful of pistachios and
almonds. When it rises, make cakes from it and bake them until they
brown. It is khubz al-abazir [spice bread]. If you want to make irnin
from it, when it is risen, take a round mould and make the dough into
thin cakes the size of the mould, and fill them with pounded sugar
and pistachios or almonds in thirds; that is, two parts sugar and one
part pistachios or almonds, which you will have flavored with
rose-water, musk, and camphor. Thoroughly seal their heads, then put
them in the bread oven, and remove them when they are lightly
browned. Some people knead dry dates with sesame oil and remove their
pits and put some of the afawih [spices; here perhaps rose-water,
musk and camphor] in it and make it the stuffing of those cakes.
3. Khubz al-Abazir [spice bread]. Take good flour and put a third of
a pound of sesame oil on every pound, and an ounce of sesame seeds
and a handful of pistachios and almonds, and knead it. And when it
has risen, bake it in the bread oven in round buns; the thickness of
the buns is two fingers. When they brown and are done, take them and
eat them with halwa.
[My Note: some of the halwa recipes look like nougat to me - egg
whites, sugar, and nuts, cooked together.]
B. From The Book of Dishes by al-Baghdadi
4. Badhin, Khubz al-Abariz. Badhin is made as follows. With a ratl of
flour mix three uquiya of fresh sesame oil, and make into loaves,
putting into the middles of each almonds or pistachios and fine
ground scented sugar. Press together and make into shapes , using an
appropriate mould, then bake in the oven. Some take dry dates as
required, remove the stones, knead with some rose water, sesame and
toasted poppy and stuff with this. For khubz al-abariz, mix with a
ratl of flour four uqiya of sesame oil, and an eighth of this
quantity of shelled sesame, make into a good dough, and bake in the
oven; then remove.
II. My Simplified Version
INGREDIENTS: COOKIE EXCHANGE RECIPE
For about 10 dozen little squares
FILLING
2 lb. dates, pitted and chopped (about 5-1/3 cups)
sesame oil
1 Tb. and 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp. ground cloves
2 bottle caps Cortas brand rose water
DOUGH
13 cups very fine semolina
1/2 tsp. salt
1 lb. sweet butter, melted and cooled somewhat
1 cup light sesame oil
1/2 cup hulled sesame seeds
1/2 cup finely chopped pistachios
1/2 cup finely chopped almonds
2 cups water, or as needed
INGREDIENTS: FAMILY SIZED RECIPE
Makes about 36 tiny squares or a dozen large squares
FILLING
1/2 lb. dates, pitted and chopped (about 1-1/3 cups)
1/4 cup light sesame oil
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
pinch of ground cloves
1/2 bottle cap Cortas brand rose water
DOUGH
3-1/4 cups medium or fine semolina
a pinch of salt
1 stick (1/4 lb.) sweet butter, melted and cooled somewhat
1/4 cup light sesame oil
1/8 cup hulled sesame seeds
1/4 finely chopped pistachios and almonds, mixed
1/2 cup water, or as needed
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING COOKIES
I. Preheat oven to 300 degrees Fahrenheit
II. Make Puree
1. Put dates in a saucepan with a few tablespoons of water.
2. Cook on low heat, stirring and mashing with a wooden spoon until puree-like.
3. Stir in spices, sesame oil, and rose water.
4. Remove from pan and let cool, shaping into a ball.
III. Make Dough
1. Put semolina in a large bowl and mix in salt.
2. Make a well in the middle of the semolina.
3. Pour in the melted butter and sesame oil
4. Rub with your fingertips until all the grains are coated with butter.
5. Mix in sesame seeds and nuts.
6. Add enough water to bind the mixture.
7. Knead until smooth.
IV. Make Cookies
1. Grease baking sheet or jelly roll pan
2. Divide dough in two equal parts.
3. Place half of dough on a well-greased sheet pan.
4. Flatten until it almost covers the pan. Doesn't need to be perfect.
5. Top with date puree ball.
6. Oil your hands, then press date ball to flatten somewhat and cover dough.
7. Flatten second half of dough somewhat, and place it on top of the dates.
8. Then flatten the whole thing evenly until you have a big, flat
"cake" about 3/4 inch thick.
9. Cut/mark 1 inch squares or lozenges.
10. Bake 300 degrees Farenheit about 15 min or until just beginning
to brown. Check periodically, as cookies should NOT change color.
11. Remove pan from oven
12. Score bars all the way through - each panful should make 36 little squares.
13. Remove from pans and cool on wire rack.
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