[Sca-cooks] Banquet dels Quatre Barres - service, length, menu

[a5foil]

So, Stefan asked:
>
> Wow. It sounds wonderful. Do you have recipes or other documentation
> for these almond confits? I thought confits were just from spices. I'd
> love to see more information about any candied nuts.

Actually, I was planning on using white (and maybe yellow) Jordan almonds. I
was using the term "confit" to mean a confection or preserve. I added them
to the menu because I thought they would taste good and I have always heard
they were period. I hadn't focused on documenting the almonds, yet, but
intend to. It's hard to believe that period confectioners could figure out
about sugar coating fennel seeds and not see sugar coating almonds...

>
> Does the recipe actually talk about caramelizing the onions? Another
> technique I wasn't aware of being used in period.

No. However the term used, "sofregit", doesn't translate well into English.
It translates as "to lightly fry." According to a 4th or 5th generation cook
with whom I spent time in Barcelona, a better definition in cooks' terms
would be to fry gently, without burning. Grewe defined it as "underfrying".
Today's interpretation of the dish I intend to do results in deeply
caramelized onions, thoroughly done, but not burnt in the least, and about
the color of a New Orleans roux. The Catalan recipes spend almost no time
discussing the look of the food (as compared to, say, the Forme of Cury).
Instead, they spend time on how it should be served. Is it possible that the
definition has morphed over time? Absolutely possible. Does that mean the
aesthetic has definitely changed? Much more difficult to prove, either way.
On the other hand, even if the onions stay pale, the dish is exquisite (if
you like cooked onions, that is).

>
> Are you going to be making the fennel comfits or buying them?

Buying them. None of us have enough spare time to make fennel confits for
96. As cheap as they are at the local Middle Eastern grocery... What we do
intend to do is remove the hot pink and neon orange ones, using the white
and yellow ones for the banquet. I would like to make my own confits,
someday, though...hmm...better put that on the list of Things To Do.

>
> > I still need bowls, but will make due if I can't find what I want. We
found
> > 1.5" red clay flower pot bottoms, glazed only on the inside (unleaded, I
> > checked) for about 29 cents each, and they will do for salt. A somewhat
> > larger size turns out to be perfect for sauce for 8
>
> Neat idea. However, I'm wondering...
>
> > Platters and bowls will be recycled between courses.
>
> Are these clay flower pot bottom used for the sauces also only glazed
> on the inside? You will be washing them between the courses. Will they

Yes, as is typical of period cassolas (cazuelas) from that region.

> absorb moisture during this? Will it then dribble out on the tables?
> Or otherwise discolor during washing?

I expect the color of the clay to darken slightly while it is wet, and to
lighten in color as it dries. So far, exposing the glazing to various foods
has not produced any staining. Yes, they will absorb some moisture. I do
intend to let them drain on towels after washing to minimize weeping at the
table. As I said, the proper vessel for service would be a hemispherical
bowl with or without a foot. While I have located appropriate vessels, I
cannot afford to buy them in sufficient quantity for the feast at $5-$6
each. By the same token, I would prefer not to use the Barony's stainless
steel serving (i.e., mixing) bowls for service. Nothing against the Barony's
bowls, mind you. They are fine, just oversized for what I'm serving and not
the look I'm after.

Regards,
Thomas