[Sca-cooks] mise-en-place
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius.magister at verizon.net
Thu Aug 26 13:51:55 PDT 2004
Also sprach Jadwiga Zajaczkowa / Jenne Heise:
>but anyway, I was reading his comments about mis-en-place. I'd never
>really thought about it, associating it with people who scream bloody
>murder when some prankish sous-chef moves their olive oil 2 inches to
>the left in order to watch their heads explode...
It is common practice in both cooking schools and certain
professional kitchens to _steal_ mise-en-place. (BTW: was this
defined in this thread? Literally, "everything in its place",
practically, the prepared ingredients you need for a given dish or
work station). But I vividly recall having a brown roux stolen from
me by a classmate, had to make another, and when the instructor
handed out grades, the person I thought had taken my roux got a
significantly lower grade because there was no way in the world his
sauce could be that clear and smooth if he'd made his own roux. (No,
I had not complained to him.)
At Bouley cooks would steal others' mise en place, or the ingredients
to make it, like, say, the last Vidalia onion, the rationale being
that they didn't care what problems the other cooks had, as long as
their own station was perfectly equipped. This is not, of course, the
way to run a business dedicated to customer service or overall
product quality.
>but it seems to me that the concept of mise-en-place obviously could be
>somewhat adapted to SCA feast kitchens beyond that... certainly the
>chain of events at my feast that ended up making us switch the feast
>courses and nearly poison someone because they read the menu and drank
>lemon drink which they thought was sekanjabin, was partly because nobody
>could find anything and when they did find it, they moved it someplace
>else and we began the Great Spice and Equipment Hunt all over again.
>
>For those of you who are familiar with the whole concept, advice on
>applying that sort of thing to SCA feast kitchens-- and advice on
>organizing your feast kitchen-- is what I'm looking to hear.
I confess to being one of those stupid people who don't tend to do a
lot of pre-prep; my background is more like, come in in the morning,
unpack, cook an absolutely fresh meal, clean up, go home (or back to
camp, I guess). Or some variation on this.
One of the problems I have sometimes encountered is misunderstandings
between different people each requiring a certain ingredient, and not
necessarily willing to measure them carefully. So, the person
chopping ten pounds of onions, finding a bunch of onions (15 pounds)
in a bag, will chop all of them a certain way, and when the next
person comes along, looking for the five pounds of unchopped onions
they need for the pottage, they find none.
One solution is to pre-prep everything, or as much as possible, in
advance, separate out whatever is needed for different projects and
label them appropriately. One method I've used is to set up sheet
pans or hotel pans on the shelves of a walk-in fridge (if you have
one, and room), and label those as mise-en-place for the pottage, one
for the meat sauce in the second course, etc.
Another possible aid is in conceiving a menu where many of your
ingredients can all be prepped in a certain way, cut to the same
size, etc. This makes it both expedient and necessary for the cooks
to measure a certain number of cups, quarts, or pounds of chopped
onion, leaving behind what they don't need. Certainly it affects the
look of the finished products (sometime ask me about how this has
changed the appearance of Chinese restaurant food in, say, the last
20 years, reflecting both that expedience but also a decline in the
skills of the prep cooks, or at least their willingness to shred
things to 1/32 of an inch).
Another possible organizational aid is to create a combined shopping
list, ingredient list, and ingredients per dish with quantities,
list, in an Excel or other spreadsheet document. When I'm able to get
this done, I post it clearly in a highly visible location, like, say,
the front of the refrigerator door.
One feature of such a list is the ability to color code certain key
ingredients that you'll need in several dishes, so a quick scan of
the chart shows pretty clearly everything that calls for butter, and
how much is needed for each. While it's not a perfect solution, I've
had people tell me, "I'm really glad I spotted that you needed butter
for both the pastry and the soup, or I might have just grabbed it all
without thinking."
Now, it's great to be able to think in terms of restaurant
mise-en-place, with little bain-marie containers tightly wrapped in
plaswrap and labelled, but a problem the SCA cook frequently has to
deal with is a lack of dedicated space for SCA stuff (what does the
site caretaker _do_ with all that half-and-half anyway???). Another
is a lack of good-quality containers that fit well together in a
small space. Ditto an occasional tendency to buy the smallest,
cheapest possible plastic wrap, foil, etc.
Bearing all this in mind, my experience has been that the Excel
chart, the onions all chopped the same way, and dealing with that,
bringing a scale so nobody can say they couldn't figure out how much
was five pounds, is a pretty good compromise.
Adamantius
--
"Why don't they get new jobs if they're unhappy -- or go on Prozac?"
-- Susan Sheybani, assistant to Bush campaign spokesman Terry
Holt, 07/29/04
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