[Sca-cooks] Spirits of hartshorn
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius.magister at verizon.net
Sat Feb 7 20:33:06 PST 2004
Also sprach Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius:
>Also sprach ranvaig at columbus.rr.com:
>>More on Hartshorn,
>>
>>from A Miscellany by Cariadoc and Elizabeth
>>http://www.daviddfriedman.com/Medieval/miscellany_pdf/Miscellany.htm
>>
>>Hartshorn (Ammonium Carbonate) was used for stiffening jellies by
>>about the end of the sixteenth century (Wilson) but we have found
>>no reference to its use as a leavening agent prior to the late 18th
>>century.
>
>Um, I'd bet this is actual hartshorn, chemically similar to
>isinglass, that was used for stiffening jellies, and not ammonium
>carbonate.
>
>I have a friend who's one of the best-known research chemists in the
>world, and the history of chemistry is a hobby of his. I just called
>him; he's gonna call me back... apparently I interrupted his dinner,
>and having eaten his wife's cooking, I'd call me back later, too ;-)
>
>I'm guessing, from not doing too well in my high-school chemistry,
>that hartshorn-the-salt/nitrogen compound was derived from
>hartshorn-the-gelatin-source (among other things) because of its
>high protein (and therefore high nitrogen) content, but I assume it
>took a good deal more processing to get it to that state.
Well, an hour later and without much more comprehensible [to me]
information, it seems that Marvin Charton agrees with me: he can't
figure out how actual hartshorn, which is pretty nearly pure
collagen, could be used as a leavening agent, while it _could_ be
used to set jellies in the same way isinglass can be. However, when
properly processed, it seems likely to him that hartshorn (if you
have an hour he can talk about the different amino acids that might
be present in the horny parts of deer antlers, and the possible
qualities of each, when burnt to varying degrees of efficiency, with
and without oxygen, and everything else you never wanted to know)
could be processed to get some stuff which, when mixed with water and
heated, could produce carbon dioxide gas, ammonia gas, and some
salts. He professed bewilderment over why anyone would want to do
this, but said that, in theory, it oughtta be possible. I explained
that tradition seems to support its use for things like cookies,
whose surface-area-to-mass ratio is such that the ammonia leaks out
of the cookie, while bread made with the stuff could be toxic on some
level.
A small funny on the plight of the professional chemist with an
insufficiently well-rounded education: when I mentioned hartshorn as
being chemically similar to isinglass, he pooh-poohed this
suggestion, saying essentially that little babies in their cribs know
that isinglass is sodium silicate (academics are some tactful folks,
as we in the SCA know). I countered that babies in their cribs ought
to know that "isinglass" is a clear, proteinaceous gelling agent
_derived from sturgeon's swim bladders_, that "ising" is Anglo-Saxon
for "sturgeon", and silicates are merely called isinglass because
they look like actual isinglass. I told him to put that one in his
Bunsen burner and smoke it... he thought about it, looking for the
comeback he was sure he could come up with, and I heard, over the
phone, his mouth snapping shut. It seems this chemist had _never
heard_ of the kind of isinglass used as a fining agent, source of
gelatin for confectionery work, extensively used in the early
pharmaceutical industry, etc. He only knew it as the chemical some
people preserve eggs in...
I've known this man for 28 years, and the number of times I've been
able to do that can be counted on the fingers of one hand...
Adamantius
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