[Sca-cooks] what's wierd-ish, what isn't
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius.magister at verizon.net
Thu Nov 11 17:20:37 PST 2004
Also sprach Huette von Ahrens:
>It is and it isn't. I looked up "florentine"
>in the Oxford Companion to Food and discovered
>that "florentine" can mean a cookie or biscuit.
>Specifically, Pepperidge Farms. Also in Britain,
>it can mean a fruit or meat pie.
Yes, there are seventeenth-century recipes for florentines which seem
to be one version of the tart with an edible shell, generally made
from puff-pastry, and filled with a variety of "quelquechoses".
> But it is from
>the French where the phrase "a la Florentine"
>means anything with spinach. According to the
>OCF, it is believed that the Italians, or
>probably more correctly the Medici's, introduced
>spinach to France. In the supermarkets I use and
>in a lot of restaurants here in Los Angeles, it
>is most common to see the term "florentine" to
>mean something with spinach in it.
It's worth emphasizing that this is culinary French, and almost
certainly not a period variety of it. Beginning in the early 19th
century (roughly), a system emerged in hotel restaurants (which were
a new concept) and great private houses in which garnishes and
presentations of dishes began to become somewhat standardized. Maybe
this is the beginning of the Stouffer Kitchen, or the standardized
fast food concept, or more likely the beginning of the level of
organization needed to run the first real restaurants, but as the
example of the "Florentine" dishes suggest, there are a lot of these
name associations in the jargon of the French chef. Dishes a la
Anglaise can be breaded and fried or served with a custardy sauce,
dishes served a la Andalusienne tend to involve eggplants and/or bell
peppers, Espagnole dishes require tomatoes, etc.
These appellations don't always have a whole lot to do with the
places they name. I think my favorite are the dishes garnished a la
Polonaise, which use a topping of buttered breadcrumbs, parsley, and
chopped hard-boiled egg. It's actually quite good, but whether it has
anything at all to do with Poland, I don't know.
Adamantius
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