[Sca-cooks] Three Italian sweet breads

Mon Jun 6 06:34:48 PDT 2005

Mistress Rachaol forwarded me the transcription/translation for the three sweet breads in question.  She made the following comments: 
The Libro is from 1549, a fine distinction, but necessary. Messisbugo died in 1548. The earliest menu mentioning the Bread of milk and sugar appears to be 1529. At this point, we are pushing the date of this particular rich bread back further.

Prima per Fare Cinquante Pani de Latte e Zuccaro di Oncie nove l’uno

Fatto Che haverai la tua Sconza, o levaturo, pigliarai di fiori di farina burattata libre 35. e tanto meno, quanto meno sara quella di che haverai fatto il levaturo, e libre 6.di zuccaro ben bianco, e Torli dUova 75 e libre 3 d’acqua rosata, e libre 6 di latte fresco, e oncie 6 di butiro fresco, e impastarai il tuo Pane, avuertirai bene, chee l’acqua, o latte non scottasse, e farai anchor ache torli d’uovu sian caldetti, & li scalderai, ponondoli nell’acqua calda, e li porri, il conveniente sale, e farai la pasta, sic he non siane dura, ne tenera, ma pui tosto ch’habbia del saldetto, e la gramarai moto bene, e poi farai il tuo pane, e lo lasciaraben (?) levare, e lo cuocerai con grande ordine, si che non pigli troppo fuoco, ma che al tuo Giuditio stia bene, e questo pane e piu bell a farlo tondo, che intorto, o in pinzoni, sia dopoi piu grande, o piu picciolo, come tu vorrai: ti governerai adunque secondo questo modo, che e provato.

TO FIRST MAKE FIFTY BREADS OF MILK AND SUGAR OF NINE OUNCES EACH

            When you have made your sourdough or yeast, you shall take thirty-five pounds of the flower (i.e. the finest ground) of sifted wheat and a much less amount, so that it shall be enough to have made the yeast (starter), and six pounds of good white sugar, and seventy -five egg yolks, three pounds of rose water, and six pounds of fresh milk, and six ounces of fresh butter, and you shall knead your bread. 

            You shall note well that the water or milk does not scorch, and you shall make certain that the egg yolks are to be warm, and you shall scald them, putting in the hot water.  And you shall put suitable salt, and you shall make the dough, so that it is neither hard nor tender, but harder than you shall have at firm.  And you shall knead it very well and then you shall make your bread, and you shall leave them to rise well, and you shall cook them with serious method so that they do not take too much fire, but that at your very good judgment.

            And this bread is more beautiful by making them round, that twist, or in buns.  Then they can be made larger or smaller, what ever you shall want.  You shall govern yourself to one according to this way, which is proven. 

40 B

Brazzatelle di Latte, E Zuccaro

A fare 50 brazzatelle, di oncie4 l’una Pigilarai libre 15 di fiore di farina, d’acqua rosa oncie 3 di latte libre 3 e di Zuccaro bianco libre 2. Uova numero 25 di butiro oncie 4 e queste cose insieme grammerai molto bene. Poi farai le tue Brazzatelle, secondo l’ordine che si fanno, e le farai levare con diligenza, et dopoi che saranno levate, farai bogliere la tua acqua, e le getterai detro dette brazzatelle a cuocere, e come verrano si sopra le cavaraifuori, & lep orrai in acquae fresca, e quando d’iui le levarai le porrai a cuocere nel forno, e se vorrai porre anesi dentro, sera buona opera.

BAGELS OF MILK AND SUGAR

            To make fifty bagels of four ounces each you shall take fifteen pounds of best flour, three ounces of rose water, three pounds of milk, two pounds of white sugar, twenty- five eggs, four ounces of butter, and you shall knead these things together very well.  Then you shall make your bagels according to the method that is done, and then you shall let rise with careful attention, and then when they are risen, you shall boil your water, and then you shall place inside the named bagels to cook, and when they come to the top you shall take them out, and then you shall put in fresh water, and when from there you shall have removed them you shall put them to cook in the oven, and if you shall want to put inside anise, it shall be a good deed.

43 C

A fare dieci Mantegate

Piglia di Pignuoli ben netti e mondi, libre una, e pestali ne mortaio, e ne farai come un latte, co oncie sei d’acqua rosata. Poi pigliarai libre tre di farina biancha e torli dieci d’uvoa, e libre una do Zucarro, e lib. Meza di butiro fresco, e di specie d’ogni sorte oncia una in tutto, e oncia una di levaturo, & un poco di sale, poi piglairai il latte li pignoli, e lo ponerai al suoco tanto che perda il freddo, e cosi impasterai ogni cosa insieme, e non bastando l’Acqua rosa, gli aggiungerai altra acqua tanto che la pasta habbia del tenero, e la sbatterai sopra una tavola per spacio di due hore: & nella sbattere della pasta, gli andarai ponendo a poco a poco libre meza di Pinuoli mondi ammaccati. Poi pigliarai due Vasi, e le metterai detta pasta dentro, e la farai stare per due hora in loco coldo, poi batterai per spatio di meza altr’hora, & fatto questo la compartirai in dieci Mantegate overo Cresentine, come uvoi dire. Poi piglia libra mezza di Butiro disfatto, & ongi il fondo
 d’una Tiella grande, & pongliela dentro, & e ongi anchora esse di sopra, e poi ponle a cuocere nel forno, che non sia troppo caldo, perche vanno cotte sdagio, e cotto che saranno, li porrai sopra libra mezza di Zucarro fino fra tutte, & potria so anche fare senza specie

TO MAKE TEN CLOAK SHAPED PASTRIES

            Take a pound of pine nuts well cleaned and shelled, and pound them in a mortar, and with them you shall make a milk with six ounces of rose water.  Then you shall take three pounds of white flour and ten yolks of eggs, and a pound of sugar, and one-half pound of fresh butter, and spices of all kinds an ounce in all, and an ounce of yeast, and a small amount of salt.  Then you shall take the milk of pine nuts, and you shall put it to the fire so much that it would warm it.  And so you will knead everything together, and (if there is) not enough of the rose water, you shall add other water, so much that the pastry would be tender, and you shall beat (or knead) over a table for the space of two hours.  And in the beating of the pastry, you shall proceed placing little by little a half-pound of shelled bruised pine nuts.

            Then you shall take two vessels and you shall place named pastry inside, and you shall make to stand for two hours in a warm place.  Then you shall beat for the space of another half-hour, and having done this you shall divide it in to ten cloak shaped (or shell shaped) or crescent shaped, whatever you want to do.

            Then take a half-pound of melted butter, and grease the bottom of a large tart pan, and put it inside, and also grease it on top, and then put it to cook in the oven that is not too hot, because they are cooked slowly.

            And when they shall be cooked, you shall put over a half-pound of fine (ground) sugar between all of them, and you can also make without spices. 

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