[Sca-cooks] semi-topical: Good Friday dinner?
Phil Troy / G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius.magister at verizon.net
Fri Mar 25 23:07:17 PST 2005
Also sprach Laura C. Minnick:
>At 10:25 PM 3/25/2005, you wrote:
>
>>Beer is allowed during Lent, right????
>>
>>Beer, Tuna Sandwich, and a bag of Chile Limon chips....
>
>What do you put in your tuna? Mayo is off-list, you know... (hacks
>me off too- so much of the 'making-fish-edible' techniques I know
>involved mayo in some form or another...)
The undisputed king of tuna sandwiches involves no mayo at all! It's
a pan bagnat, or bathed loaf, a Nicoise/Provencale thing. It's
basically a Salade Nicoise hoagie.
You split a loaf of French bread, and rub it inside and out with a
cut garlic clove, which kind of disintegrates as you rub it on the
bread. Brush the inside with EV olive oil, then lay in lettuce or
other greens, sliced hard-boiled eggs, tuna (yuppies eat this with
grilled tuna, but the traditional standard is dark tuna canned in
olive oil, and it's just fine with the wimpy solid white stuff, too).
Add slices of green Bell pepper, cucumber, tomato, anchovy fillets,
pitted Nicoise olives (Moroccan oil-cured are good, too, and much
easier to pit quickly), and maybe a ring or three of thinly-sliced
onion.
You then wrap your sandwich up tight in plastic wrap or parchment
paper, and place a weight on it for an hour or so. Ideally, you've
balanced things so that the various juices mix together and soak into
the bread, which softens up without becoming so soggy it falls apart.
I once made a pair of these for Joseph Baum and Michael Whiteman, who
were partners in owning the Rainbow Room in Rockefeller Center in New
York, and Whiteman was married to the executive chef at Gracie
Mansion. Mine was a fancified version with sliced, grilled tuna,
rouille sauce (a sort of garlicky, red-peppery mayonnaise stuff), and
Baum and Whiteman were there to discuss buying the establishment I
worked at, and having it run by the current management and staff.
They had just decided this was perhaps the best sandwich either of
them had ever had, saying they definitely wanted it as a menu item,
when suddenly Whiteman dropped a huge clump of his on his necktie...
;-)
They decided it was too difficult to eat, after all.
Probably pretty similar to one of the Roman sala cattabia recipes...
Adamantius
--
"S'ils n'ont pas de pain, vous fait-on dire, qu'ils mangent de la
brioche!" / "If there's no bread to be had, one has to say, let them
eat cake!"
-- attributed to an unnamed noblewoman by Jean-Jacques
Rousseau, "Confessions", 1782
"Why don't they get new jobs if they're unhappy -- or go on Prozac?"
-- Susan Sheybani, assistant to Bush campaign spokesman Terry
Holt, 07/29/04
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