[Sca-cooks] Paella was Tomatoes( was Philip)
Terry Decker
t.d.decker at worldnet.att.net
Fri Jan 13 06:44:58 PST 2006
In considering paella, we can easily reach a conclusion (which may or may
not be wrong) that the dish predates tomatoes in the Mediterranean.
Now let me ask, does the dish predate rice in the Mediterranean?
Tomatoes arrived in the 16th Century and may not have been used in paella
before the 17th Century. Rice became an available crop in the Mediterranean
Basin some time between the 8th and 10th Centuries with the Islamic
Expansion. Prior to that, rice was a very expensive product used primarily
to thicken sauces. Therefore, paella with rice was probably not known
before the 8th Century.
The history of the dish may be obscure, but rather than run willy-nilly
around the Mediterranean trying to compare recipes, concentrate on the
Kingdoms of Valencia and Catalonia and the culinary influences that came
there. Culinarily, the region was first settled by Greeks. The region
became a Roman province with a very strong Roman influence. The Visigoths
probably did not add much culinarily to the region and there is little
documentation. The Moors brought the rice and their culinary style. The
results of these culinary migrations should show up in the Medieval and
Renaissance Catlan recipes.
Where would I look?
I've done very little research of the Greek corpus. Most of my forays have
been modern works about the original sources.
The Roman corpus is more promising. Paella is a derivation of patella,
which suggests a strong Roman tie. A quick look at Apicius shows there are
recipes for Patellam Tyrotaricham Ex Quocumque Salso Volueris (Patella with
Cheese and Salt Fish) and Patellam Lucretianam (Patella a la Lucretius),
which may bear some relation to paella.
The Anonymous Andalusian Cookbook and the Sent Sovi will probably be
critical to any study of paella.
Were I attacking this problem, I would look at the modern variations of
paella and the techniques of preparation, then look for similarities and
differences of preparation in older dishes while considering the evolution
of ingredients. It would be speculative, but hopefully it would be a
logical progression with evidence to support the leaps of faith.
Bear
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