[Sca-cooks] Re: Seeking a good recipe for candied citrus peel
Ruth Frey
ruthf at uidaho.edu
Thu Mar 9 10:27:44 PST 2006
FWIW, my own method is really similar to Renata's, but with a few
differences on prepping the peel. I don't know if I'm especially
sensitive to the bitter compounds in citrus peels or not, but I've
never liked just taking the peel and boiling it. That still leaves
the peel too bitter for my palate, and adds a "cooked" flavor I don't
care for.
I prefer following the method outlined in some of the Period
sources (sorry, don't remember which ones off the top of my head,
though I could look them up; I seem to recall Platina is one), which
involves a long sequence of "cold" soaking. I usually do this for
oranges, but it will work on other citrus (it worked really well the
time I tried it on lemons!). It takes longer to set up than the "fast
boil" method, in terms of number of days (about a week to
completion). But, the amount of work most of those days is next to
nothing, so if you plan ahead it's not a hassle.
My method: take a knife and score the orange's peel so you can
remove it in about 4-5 vertical sections. Try to keep each piece of
peel as whole as possible -- large pieces make the scraping and
handling easier. Using a blunt spoon, scrape the white pith from the
inside of the peel sections, being careful not to "dig" too hard
(you'll puncture or tear the peel). I usually scrape till I can see
the little bumps on the back side of the peel clearly.
If you don't want to end up with a ton of oranges to eat all at
once for a big batch, I've found that you can do the peel'n'scrape
thing, then store the scraped peels in the freezer before moving on to
soaking. You can build up a goodly pile of peels that way, one or two
oranges at a time.
Next, take a large non-reactive (glass, plastic, stainless steel)
bowl or pot, put in your peels, cover with cold water, put a lid or
plastic wrap over the top, and put it in the refrigerator. For the
next 3 - 5 days, pour off the water every morning and evening, and
replace with fresh water. Soaking time will vary with your oranges.
I often nibble a little piece of the peel to test for the relative
bitterness when I think the batch is getting close. When it tastes
about the way I want it, drain the peels and pat them dry with towels.
Then, cut the peels into bite-size strips, and proceed with the
sugar syrup step exactly as Renata has it. My last variation is to
roll the peels in a mix of powdered ginger and granulated sugar (about
1:3 ginger to sugar), instead of straight sugar, cuz I like the little
bit of ginger "brightness" it adds to the flavor, but plain sugar
works fine, too.
And, last of all, I, too, discard the syrup. My dainty taste
buds find *that* to be a little too bitter, too; I'd originally had
visions of saving it for ice cream or pancakes or whatever, so I was a
little disappointed . . . :(
-- Ruth
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