[Sca-cooks] looking for simple german vigil chow

[Volker Bach]

Am Samstag, 21. Oktober 2006 04:05 schrieb Stefan li Rous:

> I was thinking that some German pastries of some type might be good
> for this, but I don't seem to have any files specific to German
> pastries. Perhaps jumbals or pretzels?

Sweet or savoury? 

There's some very interesting stuff in the German corpus. May I recommend: 

Honey Chicken Pastries

A 15th century German treat

This recipe is from the 'Rheinfränkisches Kochbuch', a Middle High German 
manuscript made around 1445 for a wealthy patron in the southern Rhineland. 
Its exact provenance is unknown. The text has been published as: Gloning, T. 
(ed.): Rheinfränkisches Kochbuch (um 1445), Tupperware Deutschland, Frankfurt 
1998.


Text:
Mach aber ein forme ubir ein model wie du wilt usz einem deyge von eyeren und 
backe den enwenig uff einem breyden ding in einem oben das die forme der masz 
du haben wilt hart werde dan du das widder herusz und nym ein wol gesoten 
czurstoszen hune und du dar in eyer wurcze und honig und slag das alles dorch 
und du ye in ein forme als manich du machist einen leffel vol und secze die 
widder in den offen so wirt das uff gen unde wirt ein hoffelich essen.


Translation:
Make a (pastry) mold by spreading pastry dough made with eggs over a model of 
whatever kind you like. Bake this a little in the oven, on a broad dish, so 
that it hardens in the shape you want it. Remove it from the oven. Then take 
well boiled and ground-up chicken, spices, egg and honey, and pass this 
through a sieve. Then place into each pastry shell, however many you made, a 
spoonful and put them back into the oven. It will rise and become a courtly 
dish.


Redaction:

500g pastry dough (traditional pie crust works well)
500g cooked chicken
3-4 eggs
1/2-3/4 cup honey
cloves
cinnamon
nutmeg
salt
1 egg yolk (optional)
saffron (optional)


Make pastry shells from the dough and bake for 10-15 minutes at 175°C (until 
hard), then remove from oven, cool, and unmould. If you have any imaginative 
moulds, this is the time to use them.

In a blender, shred the chicken and add the eggs until a smooth paste results. 
Add honey to taste (more than 3/4 cup is a waste - you are aiming for a touch 
of sweetness, not a confection). Add a pinch of salt and season with 
cinnamon, numeg and cloves (the cloves should predominate. They harmonise 
well with the honey). Fill the pastry shells with this paste and bake at 175°
C for 15-25 minutes (for cupcake-sized pastries) or 45-60 minutes (for 
pie-sized pastries). Remove the pastry briefly from the oven once the filling 
has set firmly, turn them over, and brush the shell with egg yolk and 
saffron.

The pastries can be served warm or cold and go well with a sweet-tart sauce 
like honey mustard. Small fingerfood-sized ones can easily be made in 
quantity in cupcake moulds and work well as dayboard pr picknick food.


Making the Pastry Shell:

The source does not give any recipe for the crust other than that it should be 
made with eggs. Puristically, this could be read to mean a dough of flour and 
eggs only, but that gives it a rather unpleasant consistency. I favour a 
freer interpretation and base my crusts on a recipe from the 
Kuechenmaisterey, a printed cookbook from South Germany dating to 1490. This 
crust is intended for fritters, but works well for baked pastries.


Text:
Czu machen ein krapffen teig. Item seud honig in wein alß vil du wilt und
nym auch ein weitte schussel und zwir den wein mit weissem melbe als ein
muslein. Schlach ein ayer tottern der rot sey in ein ander schussel und
auch ein wenig saffran das treib gar wol mit dem gemachten honig wein und
tu es in den gezwerten teig temperir es auch wol. Und wurff ye ein
steublein melbs dar zu in die schusseln als lang biß du ein litigen teig
gemachst. Den so bereit ein sauber tuch auf und zeug den teig darauf mit
einem welgerholtz zu massen duen. Un schneid den form groß od klein allß du
die krapffen haben wilt nach yeder ful da richt dich nach. Od was teig man
mit hefel od bier od hopf wasser macht dy muß man lassen auf gen und
darnach aber ein knetten mit loem wasser od mit einem gesotten honig wein
da wiß dich nach zu richten.


Translation:
To make dough for Krapfen. Boil honey in wine, as much as you need, take a
wide bowl and stir the wine with white flour until it is the consistency of
porridge. Break an egg yolk that is red with saffron into another bowl and
stir it with the honey wine. Add that to the other bowl and mix it well.
Add flour, little by little, until you get a stiff (?) dough. Turn that out
on a clean cloth and roll it out to the proper thickness. Cut out the
shapes you want the Krapfen in, large or small, depending on the filling
you want to use. But the doughs that are made with yeast or beer or hop
water need to rise first and then be kneaded with lukewarm water or honey
wine. Heed this advice.


Redaction:
This is not very clear, but it shows the major components of one dough
while pointing at a number of other possibilities. My reading of this would
be:

1/2 cup white wine
3-4 tblsp honey
2 eggs
2-3 cups flour
saffron

Heat the wine and dissolve the honey in it. Beat the eggs with a pinch of
saffron. In a large mixing bowl, combine honey-wine, egg, and flour until a
stiff dough results. Cool and rest, then roll out to use.

YIS

Giano


		
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