[Sca-cooks] Biersuppen

Nick Sasso grizly at mindspring.com
Tue Jan 30 07:49:26 PST 2007

-----Original Message-----
< < < < < I'd start experimenting with a pint of beer, maybe a double bock,
which is pretty heavy and more conducive to emulsions and such, and
you might not even need to sweeten it much, but any added sugar will
also thicken it just that tiny bit more that may make the difference.
Bring it just to a boil, then pour it in a thin stream into a bowl or
another saucepan containing about six large, beaten egg yolks (maybe
a small saucepan with a pouring lip might be useful here), beating
with a whip with the other hand. You may have to return it to the
flame -- very low heat, stirring constantly with a whip or a wooden
spoon-- to get it fully thickened, and then you start adding cold
butter, cut into small chunks of about a half-teaspoon each, probably
for a total of about two ounces, whipping in a piece or two at a
time,  <SNIP > > > > > > > > >

I believe your classic technique is pretty spot on . . . but I am thinking
it less likely that it would have been done just so in Rumpolt's time, from
what I've read.  The progression seems okay, but the use of a whip would
seem more a modern convenience than period tool.  My dates may be off, but I
thought we pretty much concluded that whisks were a still later development
(barring the tree branch and 'snow' and herb branches in a couple places).
Your description could be done with a wooden spoon, if with more effort and
care.  I've made do when my wisk fell apart on me.  You can certainly make a
passable imulsion sauce/soup with a flat/curved implement; it takes a good
bit more wrist and arm, but it can be done.  Same with the butter mounting
at the end.  Spoon can work.

I also am curious if this could be made simply with a custard technique of
blending everything together and bringing to heat to thicken.  That would
seem a simpler technique we use in other stuff in later period . . . like
Martino's zabalione.  Would be doable without the whick if you manage your
heat well and pay attention.  Possible we could do it both ways??

pacem et bonum,
niccolo difrancesco

More information about the Sca-cooks mailing list