[Sca-cooks] French vs Russian Service
Elise Fleming
alysk at ix.netcom.com
Thu Oct 14 07:59:53 PDT 2010
David/Cariadoc wrote:
>But 14th and 15th c. medieval meals were not served all together but
>in courses, so I'm not sure exactly what and when "French service"
>was.
I think I found a decent reference while waiting for a new muffler for
the car. I'd brought my copy of Jean-Louis Flandrin's "Arranging the
Meal - A History of Table Service in France", (translated by Julie E.
Johnson), 2007, University of California Press. Here are some excerpts
that might shed light on French vs Russian service.
Page 48: "...the sequence of dishes in fourteenth- and fifteenth-century
meals is not easy to grasp: it clearly differs from both our own custom
and that of the 'French-style service' practiced in France between the
seventeenth and nineteenth centuries."
Page 122: "Until the first half of the nineteenth century, French
service divided the meal into three or four sequences, each of these
'courses' containing numerous dishes. The dishes were not presented to
each guest, and it was not expected that everone eat from every dish.
Everything was placed on the table and guests helped themselves
according to their fancy, just as in today's buffets. French
commentators generally maintained that this method was more luxurious
than the much more costly Russian service, and that it was the only way
to accommodate the guests' range of tastes, long believed to depend on
personal temperament and physiological requirements.
"But French service also had its drawbacks. For Grimod de La Reniere,
in 1805, "A glance at this multitude of dishes satiates rather than
tempts; and...the overabundance of choice is so confusing that the
appetite wanes and the dinner gets cold before one can make up one's
mind. We have seen...how detrimental symmetry is to fine dining. But
formal dinners force the sacrifice of one for the other, and there is no
way to serve a forty-place table one dish at a time." (My note: The
symmetry that is being referred to is the custom of following designs in
cookery books for setting out a table, the dishes being placed in
geometrical and symmetrical order. This basically is post-SCA time.)
Page 94: "While more pleasing to the eye, the French tradition had a
drawback: dishes to be eaten last remained too long on the table and got
cold, despite the use of dish-warmers and covers. To avoid this
problem, Russian service placed on the table only could dishes that
could wait, while hot ones were passed around to all the guests
immediately after being carved in the kitchen....This Russian service,
which apparently came to prevail in France only during the second half
of the nineteenth century, was already being discussed fifty years
earlier." (My note: Flandrin then cites mention in an 1804 publication
that "Germany, Switzerland, and most of the north" were using The
Russian style."
Does this give you an answer, Your Grace?
Alys K.
--
Elise Fleming
alysk at ix.netcom.com
http://home.netcom.com/~alysk/
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