[Sca-cooks] recipe_for_kidneys? (data dump)

[Daniel Myers]

> -------- Original Message --------
> From: "Daniel Myers" <dmyers at medievalcookery.com>
> Date: Fri, May 06, 2011 11:16 am
> 
> > -------- Original Message --------
> > From: Ian Kusz <sprucebranch at gmail.com>
> > Date: Thu, May 05, 2011 8:20 pm
> > 
> > Anyone have a period recipe (and/or interpretation of it) for kidneys?
> 
> 
> I tried out one for deer kidneys, and it wasn't bad at all.  It's rather
> surprising though how small deer kidneys are.
> 
> http://www.medievalcookery.com/recipes/humbles.html
> 
> Kidneys aren't in the search index yet.  I'll see what I can do about
> adding them - though it'll take a while.


Ok, maybe it won't take that long.  Here are the recipes I've found that
refer to kidneys:

To make Florentines. Take Vele and some of the Kidney of the Loyne, or
colde Veale roasted, colde capon or Phesant, which of them you wil, and
mince it very small with sweet suet, put unto it two or three yolks of
Egs, being hard sod, Corance and dates small shred, season it with a
little sinamon and ginger, a very little cloves and mace, with a little
Salte and sugar, a little Time being finely shred. Make your paste fine
with butter & yolkes of Egs and Sugar, role it very thin and so lay it
in a platter with butter underneath: and so cut your cover and lay it
upon it. [A Book of Cookrye (England, 1591)]

A Florentine of Flesh. Take the Kidneies of Veale and chop them very
small with Corance, dates, sinamon and Ginger, Sugar, salt, and the
yolks of three Egs, and mingle altogither, and make a fine paste with
yolks of egges, and butter, and let there be Butter in your dishe
bottome, then drive them to small Cakes, and put one in the dish bottom,
and lay your meat in, then lay your other upon your meat, and close them
togither, and cut the cover and it, when it is baked then strew Sugar
and serve it out. [A Book of Cookrye (England, 1591)]

To make a Florentine. Take the Kidney of Veale and boyle it a little,
choppe it very fine. Then take Cloves, Mace and Pepper, and season it
withall, then take an ounce of Biskets and as much of Carowayes, and put
into your stuffe, make your paste of fine floure, butter Egges and Sugar
and drive your paste very thin, and lay a sheet of paste in a dish and
under it lay a little butter, and spread it abroad with your thumb, then
lay your meat aloft on it in the dishe, then make the other sheet and
cut it and lay it upon your meat. Then close it and cut it round about
like a Starre, and set it in the Oven and let it abide a quarter of an
houre, then take it out and wet it over with Butter, then cast sugar wet
with rosewater upon it, then set it into the Oven again a little while,
then take it out and serve it in. [A Book of Cookrye (England, 1591)]

How to bake Vaunts. Take the kidney of Veale and perboile it till it be
tender, then take & chop it small with the yolkes of three or foure Egs,
then season it with Dates small cut, small raisins, Ginger, Sugar,
Sinamon, Saffron and a little Salte, and for the paste to laye it in,
Take a dozen of Egs both the white and the yolkes, and beate them well
togither, then take Butter and put it into a frying pan, and fry them as
thin as a pancake, then lay your stuffe therin, and so frye them
togither in a pan, then cast sugar and Ginger upon it, and so serve it
forth. [A Book of Cookrye (England, 1591)]

How to make Tostes. Take the Kidneye of Vele when it is rosted, and chop
it very fine, then take and put it in a dish, put in the yolks of three
egs, put in Sinamon, Ginger and sugar, take a a little Rosewater and put
to it, take white bread and cut it like diamonds, and toste a little,
set all your stuffe on a Chafingdishe with Coles, and stirre it and
spread it upon the Tostes, take the yolke of an Egge, and with a fether
baste them over, then bake them in a pan and set them in a dishe, and
cast Sugar on them. [A Book of Cookrye (England, 1591)]

22. Ein gut geriht (A good dish). Nim dri gesotene smale swines darme.
nim dar zu smaltzes von flemen. daz tu die wile ez ungesoten ist, als
lanc und groz als die darm sint. snit daz zu sammene. slahe zwei eyer
dor zu. und nim ein wenic schoenes brotes und pfeffer und saltz zu
mazze. In dem condimente erwelle die darme. und fülle sie mit dem
condimente. und stecke sie in einen grozzen darm. swaz des condimentes
über blibe. daz giuz in den grozzen darm. und verbint beide die innern
und den grozzen darm an beiden enden besunder. teil daz condiment glich
in die darm. siut sie gar. und giv sie heyz hin. [Ein Buch von guter
spise (Germany, 1345)]

Take three boiled small pigs' intestines. Take thereto fat of
domesticated pigs' kidneys. Do that while they are unboiled, (the fat)
as long and wide as the intestines are. Cut that together. Beat two eggs
thereto and take a little good bread and pepper and salt to mass. In the
condiment, boil the intestines and fill them with the condiment and
stick them in a large intestine. Pour the condiment over to stay. Give
that in the large intestine. And bind both the inner and the large
intestine on both ends particularly. Split the condiment the same in the
intestine. Boil it well and give it out hot. [Ein Buch von guter spise
(Germany, 1345)]

41. And to know what is and of what things is made and should be made
the cocade pasty and how, take beef and the fair fat from beef kidneys
and let this be chopped very small, and let him take care that when the
beef is dismembered he has all of the marrow, and then put it in his
pasty; and then let him take his spices well and properly, that is
ginger, grains of paradise, saffron, and salt, and all these things in
measure. And the pastry-cook will be well advised to make the crust of
the said pasty so large, well and honestly in several compartments so
large that in each can be put that which one devises for it: in the best
should be lodged the beef pasty, in another compartment should be put a
lamprey, and in another compartment should be put a young well-fattened
gosling, and in another compartment should be put a salmon, and in
another should be put a pigeon, and in another should be put pallees, in
another small birds which should be stuffed with guein cheese and beef
marrow, in another compartment large pieces of fair and large fresh eels
and partridges, in another large pieces of fresh trout, and in another
and last compartment - if you do not want any more things - fat capons.
[Du fait de cuisine (France, 1420)]

To make a Pye of Humbles. Take your humbles being perboiled, and choppe
them verye small with a good quantitye of Mutton sewet, and halfe a
handfull of hearbes folowing, thime, margarom, borage, perseley, and a
little rosemary, and season the same being chopped, with pepper, cloues
and mace, and so close your pye and bake him. [The Good Housewife's
Jewell (England, 1596)]

To bake the Humbles of a Deere. Mince them verie small, and season them
with pepper, Cinamon and Ginger, and suger if you will, and Cloues and
mace, and dates and currants, and if you will, mince Almondes and put
vnto them, and when it is baked, you must put in fine fat, and put in
suger, cinamon and Ginger, and let it boile, and when it is minced, put
them together. [The Good Housewife's Jewell (England, 1596)]

To make a Tarte of an eare of Veale. Take two pound of great Raisons,
and washe them cleane, and pick them, and take out the stones of them,
and take two Kidneyes of Veale, and a peece of the legge which is leane,
and boyle them altogether in a pot with the straint of the broth of
mutton, and boyle it, and let it boyle the space of one howre, then take
it vp and choppe it fine, and temper it with crummes of bread finely
grated, ant take nine yolks of egs, & temper them altogether, and season
them with sinamon, ginger, suger, and small Raisins, great raisons
minced, Dates and Saffron. Then take fine flowre and water, and three
yolkes of Egges, Butter and saffron, and make them like a round Tart
close with a couer of the same paste, and set him in the Ouen, and let
him stand one howre, then take him forth, and endore it with Butter and
cast a powder of synamon, Ginger, and suger, and so serue it. [The Good
Housewife's Jewell (England, 1596)]

To make a florentine. Take the kidneis of a loyne of veale that is
roasted, and when it is cold shredde it fine, and grate as it were half
a Manchette very fine, and take eight yolkes of Egges, and a handfull of
currans, and eight dates finely shred, a little senamon, a little ginger
a litle suger and a litle salt, and mingle them with the kidneyes, then
take a handfull of fine flowre and two yolkes of egges, and as much
butter as two egges, and put into your flowre, then take a little
seeting licquor, and make your paste and driue it abroad very thinne,
then strake your dishe with a little butter, and lay your paste in a
dish & fill it with your meate, then drawe an other sheet of paste
thinne and couer it withall, cut it handsomly vpon the top, and by the
sides, and then put it into the Ouen, and when it is halfe baked drawe
it out, and take two or three feathers, and a little rosewater, and
wette all the couer with it, and haue a handfull of suger finely beaten,
and strawe vpon it, and see that the Rosewater wet in euery place, and
so set it in the ouen againe, and that will make a faire ise vpon it, if
your Ouen be not hotte inough to reare vp your ise, then put a little
fire in the Ouens mouth. [The Good Housewife's Jewell (England, 1596)]

60 To make a veal pie. Take pieces of veal from the leg and boil them in
water, about as long as it takes to hard boil an egg. Afterwards take
them out and chop the meat small, and take suet from the kidneys and cut
it small and chop it with the veal. And when it is finely chopped, then
put it in a bowl and put some wine into it and an ample ladelful of
broth , pepper and a little mace, which should be whole. Crush it a
little by hand so that it in small pieces, put in it raisins and saffron
and stir it all up together with a spoon, put cinnamon in it also, and
taste it, however it seems good to you. [Das Kuchbuch der Sabina
Welserin (Germany, 16th c.)]

68 To make a quince pie. Peel the quinces and cut the core cleanly out
with a knife, fry them in fat. After that stuff the quinces with
currants, sugar, cinnamon and cloves. Afterwards take beef marrow or
finely chopped kidney suet or skimmed fat from some other meat and put
good Malavosia or Reinfal on it, sugar, cinnamon and cloves, however it
seems good to you. The dough for the pie is found in number [sixty one].
[Das Kuchbuch der Sabina Welserin (Germany, 16th c.)]

196 Brisetten are made in the following manner. Cut veal from the
haunch, cut it into fine, thin strips about a finger's thickness and
beat them thoroughly on both sides with the back of a knife. Take kidney
suet and chop it small, mix with it all savory herbs, such as parsley,
marjoram, sage and what ever savory herbs you can obtain, and salt,
pepper and cinnamon among them. And if it should not be moist enough,
you could add meat broth. And spread it on both sides of the veal
strips. Afterwards roll them up together and stick them on spits and set
a frying pan under them. Roast them well in their juices, and baste them
often in the juices which run out, and that which normally runs out and
remains with the broth in the fat pan, pour it over it and serve it
thus. It is a good dish. [Das Kuchbuch der Sabina Welserin (Germany,
16th c.)]

54. THICK GOURDS WITH MEAT BROTH. Take gourds, and scrape them very well
so that they become very white and clean. And then cut them into very
long thin slices; and take good fatty bacon, and a piece of mutton
together with the bacon, and when everything is very well melted, strain
it through a sieve and cast it in the pot where the gourds must cook
with the fatty bacon, and stir it constantly with a stick; and cast in
an onion, and gently fry it with the gourds; and when they are gently
fried, take good kidney suet of a sheep, and set it to cook separately
with a pair or two of squabs; and you will make good broth which is
well-salted; and when the broth is made, little by little cast it upon
the gourds, and always take the fattiest [broth]; and when the gourds
are well-cooked, and quite mushy, take almond milk or milk of goats or
sheep – but the almond milk is never lacking – and cast the milk in
the pot; and when the milk is cooked with the gourds, turn them about
with a haravillo in such a manner that not even the smallest piece of
gourd remains undissolved; and cast good cheese of Aragon which is
grated and very fine, in with the gourds; and when this is done take two
egg yolks for each dish, well-beaten with verjuice, then mix them with
the gourds; then make [them] in such a manner that they taste a little
of verjuice; and then prepare dishes, and cast upon them sugar and
cinnamon. [Libre del Coch (Spain, 1520)]

A Florentine of a Cony, the wing of a Capon, or the Kidney, of a Veale.
MJnce any of these with sweet Hearbes, parboyld Currens, a Date or two
minst small, a pieece of a preserued Orenge, or Lemmon, minst as small
as your Date. Season it with Ginger, Sinamon, Nutmeg, and Sugar: then
take the yolkes of two new laid Egges, a spoonefull of sweet Creame, a
piece of a short Cake grated, and Marrow cut in short pieces. Bake this
in a dish betweene two leaues of puff-paste, put a little Rosewater to
it before you close your Paste. When it is baked shaue on Sugar. [A NEVV
BOOKE of Cookerie (England, 1615)]

To make Kicks-Hawes. TAke the Kidney of a Ueale, or Lambe, or if you
haue neither of both, then take the Eare of a Mutton, fat and all. Boyle
it, and mince it fine: season it with Nutmeg, Pepper, and Salt. Then
take two or three Egges, a spoonefull of Rosewater, two or three
spoonefuls of Sack, as much grated Bread, as will worke them like
Lithpaste. Then floure your moulds, and fill them with that paste: then
roule a thinne sheet of paste, wet it and couer it ouer: frye them, and
turne them into small Dishes, and keepe them warme in the Ouen, serue
them at Dinner, or Supper. Jf you will bake them then you may turne them
into the Dish raw, out of your moulds, and Jce them with Rosewater and
Sugar, and set them in the Ouen, when your Pyes are halfe bakte. [A NEVV
BOOKE of Cookerie (England, 1615)]

To mak nombles tak hert middrif and kidney and hew them smalle and prise
out the blod and sethe them in water and ale and colour it with brown
bred or with blod and fors it with canell and galingalle and when it
boilithe kole it a litille with ale and serwe it. [A Noble Boke off
Cookry (England, 1468)]

To make a veal loin stuffed & roasted. Take good stuffing herbs, & chop
them very finely, make them fried in butter: put therein 4 egg yolks,
nutmeg, ginger, cinnamon, a little sugar, salt, & make it a little
cooked, not too much: then chop a salted lemon mixed with the stuffing:
then take a loin of veal that is a little parboiled: then put the
stuffing under the kidney of the veal, & cover it with a doubled caul of
veal, & attach it with skewers that nothing falls out, then when cooked
take the kidney out, & chop it: put therein two egg yolks, a little
sugar & cinnamon, a little salt, & put the aforesaid kidney on the
toasted bread, & put it in a tart pan with butter therein, & put covers
on them with fire, that the roasts will be well chaffed a little, & put
all around the plate where the loin of veal is, & cast all the fat on
the loin with vinegar, & oranges cut into pieces thereon. [Ouverture de
Cuisine (France, 1604)]

Paupiettes. Take beef marrow or fat from the beef kidney, and slice it
into bits as long and fat as a man's finger. Refresh them in hot water.
Do nothing but insert and remove the beef marrow, but refresh the fat
more generously. Have a shin of veal, remove the meat from the bones as
intact as you can, cut it into strips as thin as a thick wafer, and
stand them on a clean dresser. Wrap the marrow bits in your veal strips
with a little white salt and Fine or White Powder. Have a very slender
iron spit and spit them. Have some of the batter suitable for Small
Crisps, and coat them with it when the marrow is well cooked. [Le
Viandier de Taillevent (France, 1380)]