[Sca-cooks] Jelly Donuts in 15th c. Germany

Terry Decker t.d.decker at att.net
Mon Dec 9 13:36:21 PST 2013


Cursory examination shows references to krapfen in the "gebaches" section. 
As a generalization, the section covers bake goods and deep fried items. 
I'm hesitant to assign any value to the "Gefüllte Krapfen".  While it can be 
translated as filled doughnuts, Krapfen covers a multitude of products 
wrapped in dough from some types of ravioli to empanadas.  For example, 
Sabina Welserin has a recipe (193) for "kaponer krapfen"  that is for 
chicken dumplings.  There are four krapfen recipes in Das buch von guter 
spise that certainly.

You can find a translation of the recipe for krapfen dough from 
Kuchenmeisterei here:

http://books.google.com/books?id=oDNFbocxamEC&pg=PA70&dq=k%C3%BCchenmeisterei+krapffen&hl=en&sa=X&ei=wDCmUoXMF8KRygHlk4CIBw&ved=0CDEQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=k%C3%BCchenmeisterei%20krapffen&f=false

It's definitely not a yeast dough.

While the term Krapfen can be used to cover modern raised filled doughnuts, 
most of the krapfen and krapffen recipes I've encountered do not use raised 
dough.

I think the reference from Leite's Culinaria is a copy of a misconception 
from an erroneous translation caused by the translator not understanding 
just how broad the term krapfen is.

Bear


----- Original Message ----- 



A recent discussion on Facebook was set off by a web page that claims to
find the origin of /Sufganiyah /in a jelly doughnut recipe called
"Gefüllte Krapfen" in a cookbook called /Kuchenmeisterei /published in
Nurnberg in 1485:

http://leitesculinaria.com/60405/writings-histotry-of-sufganiyah.html#comments

There is a facsimile of a cookbook called /Kuchmaistrey/ , published in
Nurnberg in 1490, webbed at:

http://diglib.hab.de/wdb.php?dir=inkunabeln%2F276-quod-2

The facsimile has an alphabetical index at the beginning in which I
cannot find "Gefüllte Krapfen." There is a section labeled "Krapfen" and
I can't find it there either. On the other hand, I'm far from fluent in
German, let alone 15th c. German in gothic print, so might easily be
missing something.

Does anyone know of a webbed searchable text of the book in question? A
translation? Would anyone on this list whose German is better than mine
like to go searching for jelly doughnuts?

-- 
David Friedman
www.daviddfriedman.com
http://daviddfriedman.blogspot.com/

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