[Sca-cooks] What is the difference between a pie and a tart?
JIMCHEVAL at aol.com
JIMCHEVAL at aol.com
Fri Nov 28 14:54:46 PST 2014
In common parlance, that is the usual distinction, though clearly not hard
and fast.
A similar problem exists for the French words tourte and tarte. Le Grand
d'Aussy:
" Although hot pasties were made with fine flour, nonetheless since they
were round, like tourtes of bread, they were equally called tourte or tart,
depending on if they were filled with vegetables, or made with meat or fish.
But in the XVth century a distinction was made; and it is Taillevent who
notes this. Any pastry containing meat or fish is called pasty; and the word
tart was reserved for those containing vegetables, fruit, greens or
preserves. As for us, we have renounced this distinction; and we say equally
pigeon tourte, spinach, jelly, frangipane tourte, etc."
And of course there were "covered tarts". Le Grand provides an inventory
that might be of interest:
" In an account of 1333, for the Household of Humbert, Dauphin of the
Viennois, parmesan tourtes are mentioned; in Taillevent, a covered tart; a
jacobine; bourbonnaise; two-faced tart; with pears; with apples; in Platina,
white tart; common tart; turnip tart; quince; gourd; elder flower; rice, oat
gruel; rose; chestnut; millet; cherry; date; May herbs; in Charles Etienne,
an Italian tart, which was made with fines herbes; (this may be the same as
the last from Platina); finally in a work from the same period, which I
will cite below, tart of England, cream tart, beef marrow, apples well
chopped in a large flagon, plums, white wine; swallowed tart, old tart, fanaide
tart, godiveau tart, plated tourte, béatilles.
Normally, in fruit season, says Champier, several different fruits of
different kinds went into tourtes. For example, one made them partially of
strawberries, apricots, plums, greens, cream, verjuice, etc; and in making them
thus, yellow, green, white, and red, in compartments, designs were formed,
agreeable to the eye.
The author informs us that a Cardinal of his time, a man of the greatest
distinction, but whom he does not name, had invented medlar tourtes,
seasoned with hypocras.
L'Etoile, wanting to describe for us the mad profusions, the extravagant
expenses of [François] d'O [1535-1594] says that this Superintendent of
finances surpassed Kings and Princes in prodigality; and that even in his
suppers, he had tourtes served of musk and amber, which cost twenty-five crowns.
But these refinements of gluttony were not part of the Nation's ways; they
were particular to a man who, after having risen to his place by a million
base acts, dissipated in an insolent luxury the treasures of the State he
oppressed; while on the other hand he left his Prince in the greatest need.
Another sort of tourte was known among us then, fine, but less expensive.
It was called marzipan tart, and was made, says de Serres, with ground
almonds, scented with rose water, and seasoned to half their weight with sugar.
When it was half-baked, it was taken out of the oven to be glazed with
sugar and egg white; after which it was baked to completion.
The custom of glazing tourtes survived in the last century; but their form
changed. In the center of their circumference was raised a sort of rock,
which was made up of different jellies; and all around were planted on the
pastry sweet-meats, pistachios, preserved lemon peels. This mound of jellies
was related to a fashion which then survived, as I will say elsewhere, and
which consisted in serving in a pyramid meat and dessert fruit. As to the
custom of studding sweet-meats and zests into the pastry, as is known it
still survives in certain spice-breads.
Picardy was famous for its tarts, and above all for its cream tarts; so
attest several Authors of the last two centuries. In social gatherings, the
custom was that he at whose place one gathered gave the different members of
the group a collation with refreshments. Well the principal dish of these
snacks was a tart; which led to the gatherings being called tartarins; a
name which they still bear today."
Jim Chevallier
_www.chezjim.com_ (http://www.chezjim.com/)
Newly translated from Pierre Jean-Baptiste Le Grand d'Aussy:
Bread, Pastry and Sweets in Old Regime France
https://www.createspace.com/5069278
_http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJZKRTQ
In a message dated 11/28/2014 2:29:25 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
StefanliRous at gmail.com writes:
I thought pies had top crusts, but tarts did not. However, this would mean
than all those things called pumpkin pies in the stores and restaurants
are actually pumpkin tarts, not pumpkin pies.
_ (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJZKRTQ)
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