[Sca-cooks] OOP Book: The Market Assistant

[JIMCHEVAL at aol.com]

OK, no peacock, but late medieval cooks need not despair; it seems that  
swan was still perfectly acceptable:
 
"Domesticated swan.—There are several persons in this country that have  
these beautiful and graceful birds domesticated, and keep them more as an  
ornament than for the table. In the waters of Central Park large numbers are to 
 be seen daily.  
In  England, swan-feasts are common in the months of September and 
November, and  often as late as Christmas. 
The  young, or cygnet, is considered a capital dish, very highly esteemed, 
and never  better than in the month of November. Yarrell says: "The 
town-clerk of Norwich  sends a note from the town-hall to the public swanherd, the 
corporation, and  others who have swans and swan-rights, on the second Monday 
in August. They are  collected in a small stream or pond, the numbers 
varying from fifty to seventy,  and many of them belonging to private 
individuals. They begin to feed  immediately, being provided with as much barley as 
they can eat, and are usually  ready for killing early in November. They vary 
in weight, some reaching to  twenty-eight pounds. They are all cygnets. If 
kept beyond November, they begin  to fall off, losing both flesh and fat, and 
the meat becomes darker in color and  stronger in flavor." 
Ducks.—There  are many breeds of ducks which are very fine for the table, 
among which are the  Muscovy, topknot, Cayuga black, etc. A cross between the 
common and Muscovy  produces a very large bird at an early age, and is 
considered by many the  choicest duck. 
The  young, or spring-duck, is always the best; but sometimes to select is 
rather  difficult for the uninitiated, as it requires the experienced eye 
and hand to  judge both the young duck and goose. There are, however, some 
general signs  which are found correct. The joints in the legs will break by 
their own weight;  the windpipe will also break easily under the pressure of 
the fingers. The lower  end of the flat breast-bone should be soft,  and, 
above all, they should be plump and fat."


Otherwise, this response to the first edition makes me wonder how Hugh  
Capet - founder of the Capetian dynasty - would have reacted to claims 
(probably  spurious) that his grandfather was a butcher:

"He  treats genealogy as he would an ox. He bleeds, cuts, dissects, and 
flays without  remorse"




 
To the Editors of the Sunday Times: 
"Gentlemen, — I have just arisen from the  perusal of a very singular sort 
of book lately published by one Thomas F. De  Voe,1 member of the New York 
Historical  Society, etc.,' as he signs himself on the title-page, and ' 
Butcher,' as he  writes after his signature to the preface. The work in question 
is called 'The  MarketBook,' and professes to contain 'a historical account 
of the public  markets in the cities of New York, Boston, Philadelphia, and 
Brooklyn, &c.,  &c, &C.' The author appears to have taken a great deal of 
pains to  gather facts and dates, and I have no doubt that his book will be 
treasured up  as a valuable contribution to local history. His researches 
have led him into  many interesting fields of knowledge, and occasionally he 
digresses from the  main subject in a most agreeable manner and with very 
entertaining results. 
"It  seems to me, however, that he might have spared the feelings of 
several of the  first families in New York by omitting to mention some 
disagreeable and  humiliating facts. He treats genealogy as he would an ox. He bleeds, 
cuts,  dissects, and flays without remorse. Without the slightest regard for 
the  sensitive feelings of the present generation, he publishes to the 
world — and  gives names and dates, tool — that many of our wealthiest 
citizens, residing in  the Fifth Avenue, or living in luxury abroad, are descended 
from butchers! 
"Now,  you will allow, Messrs. Editors, that a man is not responsible, 
morally,  socially, or otherwise, for the conduct of his grandfather, tf my 
grandfather  chose the trade of a butcher, why should I be blamed for it? This 
is my case  exactly. My father's father was a butcher, and, just as my  
family had almost outlived the disagreeable memory, along comes this ' member of  
the New York Historical Society — Thomas F. De Voe, Butcher,' and blurts 
out the whole thing  before the world. He deliberately puts upon record a fact 
which I have always  endeavored to keep from my children, and of which my 
very wife was ignorant  until she saw my grandfather's name conspicuously 
paraded in the book. 
"There  may be no remedy for this outrage. The book may not be libelous. 
The law may  give me no relief. If I were to sue Mr. De Voe, he might admit 
the publication,  and justify, as the lawyers call it, by proving my paternal 
ancestor's trade,  which would only give greater notoriety to a circumstance 
I had hoped might pass  out of human recollection. Besides, there might be 
two or three butchers on the  jury, and then my chance for damages would be 
small indeed. 
"All  I can do, therefore, is to denounce the author of' The Market-Book' 
as a  reckless disturber of family pride. In behalf of many proud and wealthy 
families  of New York, I denounce him. He might have told the world all 
about Bear  Market and The Market, when they were built,  where they stood, &C. 
; but he should have kept to himself the names of the  men who sold meat 
there. He had no right to remind us that our grandfathers  trundled mutton to 
market in a wheelbarrow, and then carried it to their  customers on a wooden 
tray. The cause of historical truth, for which Mr. De Voe.  affects so much 
veneration, would have been quite as well served had he omitted  names and 
disagreeable details. It is to be hoped that these suggestions will,  in the 
next edition of his book, receive the attention to which they are  
entitled. Should they be disregarded, I now give him due notice and timely  warning 
that I shall not be responsible for the consequences. Your obedient  servant,

 
 
"An Indignant Gentleman. 
"Gramercy  Park, March 11, 1862." —The Times and Meuenger.

Jim  Chevallier

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In a message dated 6/7/2015 4:34:02 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
guillaumedep at gmail.com writes:

I came  across this book while looking for sources for exotic meats and
thought it  would be of interest to others on this list:

The Market  Assistant
https://books.google.com/books?id=2z4EAAAAYAAJ

It is a  catalog of foods available for sale in New York, Boston,
Philadelphia, and  Brooklyn during the mid-19th century. I hope it is
enjoyable to  all.

Guillaume
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